Flash Gordon dodgy fuse

[Crashramp]

Just back from holidays acouple of weeks ago and I turn on Flash Gordon for a game and no sound! At the time all I really wanted was a game of pinball so I moved on to another machine and left Flash alone until tonight. Anyway tonight I turn Flash back on and notice the bottom two pop bumper lights and the left hand side star rollovers out as well so I figure maybe it's a fuse? So I start there but all test fine in the machine but I've fallen for that before so this time I remove them all and test again and they're still all fine. I put them back in the board and turn the machine on to go through the diagnostics but notice the lights back on and the sound ringing out again!

While I'm happy to have a fully working machine again (had 4 x million+ games in a row before 2 crap games) I'm not sure what caused the problem  The fuse holders were all replaced only acouple of years ago when this machine was restored so I can only assume I have a dodgy fuse there. I can't say I've really had this before, generally they've either been working or they've blown. Is this something that happens from time to time? I haven't checked the schematics to see which one is the likely culprit but I assume a fuse is the problem.

[Strangeways]

So the game is working once the fuses were reseated. I'd say the fuse holders - but they are new - so it has to be the fuse. A fuse can measure good, but under load it may go open.

[Crashramp]

So the game is working once the fuses were reseated. I'd say the fuse holders - but they are new - so it has to be the fuse. A fuse can measure good, but under load it may go open.

That's good to know thanks Nino, I'd assumed they'd either work or they wouldn't. I hadn't considered that they might occasionally fail under load but test ok when not.

[pinball god]

So the game is working once the fuses were reseated. I'd say the fuse holders - but they are new - so it has to be the fuse. A fuse can measure good, but under load it may go open.

That's good to know thanks Nino, I'd assumed they'd either work or they wouldn't. I hadn't considered that they might occasionally fail under load but test ok when not.

I've had a fuse that tests fine but failed when it got warm. Found it would separate from the metal capping at one end.

[Crashramp]

Unfortunately this problem has come back and stayed this time.

At the moment I have no sound at all and I've also lost the lights to the coin door and the 2 lower playfield bop bumpers.

I tested the fuses in the Rectifier board but t hey seem good but just in case I swapped in another spare rectifier board but this didn't make any difference. I also tried my spare Solenoid driver board and MPU but these made no difference.
I've had the squawk and talk board out, there is nothing obvious that's blown there. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

[Strangeways]

Unfortunately this problem has come back and stayed this time.

At the moment I have no sound at all and I've also lost the lights to the coin door and the 2 lower playfield bop bumpers.

I tested the fuses in the Rectifier board but t hey seem good but just in case I swapped in another spare rectifier board but this didn't make any difference. I also tried my spare Solenoid driver board and MPU but these made no difference.
I've had the squawk and talk board out, there is nothing obvious that's blown there. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Check the voltages at the S&T board test points. You need +5V, +12V and -5V. What happens when you press the test button ?

Check the door globe holders. No shorts to Ground ?

Remove the door power connector and see if the pop bumper lamps return.

Sounds like 2 different issues.

[Crashramp]

Unfortunately this problem has come back and stayed this time.

At the moment I have no sound at all and I've also lost the lights to the coin door and the 2 lower playfield bop bumpers.

I tested the fuses in the Rectifier board but t hey seem good but just in case I swapped in another spare rectifier board but this didn't make any difference. I also tried my spare Solenoid driver board and MPU but these made no difference.
I've had the squawk and talk board out, there is nothing obvious that's blown there. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks.

Check the voltages at the S&T board test points. You need +5V, +12V and -5V. What happens when you press the test button ?

Check the door globe holders. No shorts to Ground ?

Remove the door power connector and see if the pop bumper lamps return.

Sounds like 2 different issues.

Thanks Nino, I'll work through your suggestions tomorrow. Only thing you've mentioned that I've already done was the test button. Still no sounds when I press it.