Data East Power Supply (520-5047-00, 520-5047-01 and 520-5047-02)

[Pinball Fixers]

Following on from Nino's thread about the Bally/Stern Solenoid Driver Board, I am starting this thread about the most common Data East Power Supply boards...

Unfortunately, Clay's guides do not have much information about the Data East Power Supplies, so I'm going to share the things I have learnt about these boards here.

This thread will only be about the these three boards, as the other 2 versions have some major differences (these three are pretty much the same, although they are not interchangeable). I will be starting threads about the others soon...


Data East Power Supply (520-5047-00, 520-5047-01 and 520-5047-02)


The repair information here is only intended for anybody who has electronics repair experience, and is only a guide. Aussie Pinball and I can take no responsibility if you cause serious damage to your machine by repairing the circuit board yourself. If you do not have experience working on circuit boards, then you do so at your own risk, and cannot hold myself or Aussie Pinball responsible for any potential problems or damage caused to your pinball machine. 


Ok, the board pictured below has already been repaired, but I will use it to show what needs to be done depending on the problems you may be having:



As you can see, I have marked all the main sections that need to be looked at.


Starting with the easy stuff:

1) The Generall Illumination (G.I.) connector is a very common part to burn out. This would easily be the most common problem on the DE Power Supplies, and is an easy fix - Replace the 9 pin header, and replace the 9 pin plug using Trifurcon pins. As a side note: check the PPB board as well - The top left hand plug is also for the G.I. and regularly burns out. You will also find the G.I. fuses directly underneath this plug. Make sure you check the Fuse Clips on the PPB board, which I will describe about below...

2) Another common problem on the DE Power Supply is the power plug from the transformer. It usually burns out one of the pins that is to do with the +5 Volt and +12 Volt sections (normally pin 10). When this pin burns out, you get lower voltage to the Bridge Rectifier, which in turn causes problems with the +5 Volts. Best to replace the complete socket with a 12 pin Molex 0.93" female housing, using solder tail pins. Also, make sure you at least replace the pins for the male plug that plugs into this housing - I usually replace the male plug as well, as the original is usually burned, so the new one will not throw you if you go back to repair it later on... (you can see from the pic above that this housing has already been replaced using the standard Molex female plug)

3) The Fuse Clips on the Data East pinball machines can be a major problem. I'm not exactly sure why, but they tend to break away from the fuse itself, and therefore cause a bad connection. These can be easily tested by pushing them away from the fuse itself, and see if they break away. The fuse clips that are ok will not move much, but the fuse clips that are faulty will - in fact, the faulty ones will break away almost completely and will not be usable after this test. Replace any that do break away. This is not just useful for the Power Supply, all of the other Data East boards that have fuses suffer from this, so check them all!

4) Dry solder joints are common on Data East boards. When ever you pull a circuit board out of a Data East pinball, it is best to re-solder all of the connector pins, and any other parts that have dry solder joints.


In the next post, I will be talking about the +12 Volt and -12 Volt sections...

[Pinball Fixers]

As promised... here are my findings on the +12Volt and -12Volt sections of the Data East Power Supply Board...

Below is a close-up pic of the +12 and -12 Volt sections (this includes the +5 Volt rectifier section):



1) Although the +12 Volt section doesn't cause many problems, it is closely tied to the +5 Volt section. This said, it is best to replace the 4 x 4700uF 25V Capacitors here. Replace them with 4700uF 35V capacitors (the voltage isn't that much of an issue, as long as they are of a higher voltage than original - do not use higher uF capacitors!)

2) The -12 Volt section is only used for audio, so it is not essential to replace this capacitor. If you do, replace it with a 1000uF 35V cap.

3) Although the Bridge Rectifier may be OK, I recommend replacing it. This part does the most amount of work on the Power Supply, and will start to fail over time. Usually it will start to break down and cause intermittent faults, so best to replace it now. It supplies the rectified DC for the +5 Volts, +12 Volts and -12 Volts.


The next step is the +5 Volt section...

[Pinball Fixers]

The +5 Volt section is the main power supply for the whole pinball machine. This section supplies the voltage to all of the IC's on every circuit board, including the processor chip. With out this section, the machine will not operate! This section is also becoming one of the more regular failures on the Data East Power Supplies... If you find you have around +3.5 Volts when you should have +5 Volts, then this is where you want to be looking...

Below is the +5 Volt section of the 520-5047-01 and 520-5047-02 boards...



1) If you have followed the +12 and -12 Volt part of this guide, then you will have already replaced the Bridge Rectifier, which leads us on to the next main parts...

2) The Voltage Sense Capacitor (C2 - 100uF 25V). This Capacitor is the most common part to leak on the whole Power Supply. Once this Capacitor leaks, you will find that you only have approx +3.5Volts on the CPU board, when you should have +5Volts. This cap should be replaced with a 100uF 35V capacitor, and have any leakage cleaned up.

3) Once the C2 cap has been replaced, make sure you replace the diodes at D2 and D3 (use 1N4007 diodes for this). These are part of the AC voltage sense circuit and should be replaced. Also replace the capacitor C3 (47uf 63V) as it is also part of the AC voltage sense circuit. The AC voltage circuit is needed for the LM723 IC to function properly.

4) The next major part in need of replacing is the 2N6057 transistor. This is best replaced with a 2N6059 transistor as it has a higher voltage and current rating. This transistor provides the "constant current" supply for the +5 Volts and is governed buy the LM723 regulator IC. It needs to be in top working order for the Power Supply to provide the +5 Volts to all the IC's.

5) The next part to replace is the LM723 Voltage Regulator IC. Many people recommend not replacing this IC as it does not cause many problems... This is relatively true, but the LM723 can oscillate causing many problems within the +5 Volt line. I personally do replace this part for that reason... It is an old chip based on old technology...

6) Finally, the Output capacitor (C7 - 330uf 25V) should be replaced. This is not 100% necessary, but is a good precaution. Replace this capacitor with a 330uF 35V cap.



Next will be the High Voltage Section...

[Strangeways]

Excellent guide, Owen.

I have some of my own findings in the HV section which I would like to share after you have posted your update to that section. Seems there is a REVISION of power supply that made it to production that is not common, but is a PAIN to work out from the schematics.

But I won't "jump the gun".. Keep the updates coming 

[Pinball Fixers]

Now for the final part of this Power Supply... The High Voltage Section.

This post only applies to the 520-5047-01 and 520-5047-02 boards. The 520-5047-00 board uses different parts, and will be covered later...

Below is a pic of the High Voltage section:



As you can see, I've labelled all the different parts that are part of the High Voltage Section. If you have any problems with the HV supply, then it is best to replace the parts listed below, and not just the faulty part. Replacing just the faulty part will mean that this section will fail again reasonably soon as the other parts are already weakened. So, lets look at what needs to be replaced...

1) TR3, TR4 and TR6: These transistors are the output transistors for the 3 voltages needed for the Dot Matrix Display. They supply the +68Vdc, -98Vdc and -110Vdc voltages. Replace TR3 and TR6 with MJE15030 transistors, and TR4 with an MJE15031 transistor. Don't get these confused, as putting them in the wrong place will cause them to catch fire almost instantly at power on!

2) TR1 and TR2: These two transistors control the 3 output transistors. Replace TR1 with an MPSA92 transistor, and TR2 with and MPSA42 transistor.

3) Next on the list is the Zener Diodes. These diodes set the output voltages for the output transistors, and also set the bias voltage on the TR1 and TR2 transistors...

3a) D6 and D8 are the bias voltage zeners for TR1 and TR2. These are both 3.9 Volt Zener Diodes. Replace these with BZX85C3V9 or 1N5228 zeners.

3b) D9, D10 and D11 set the output voltages for TR3, TR4 and TR6. Replace D9 with BZV85C68, BZT03C68 or 1N4760B. Replace D10 with BZT03C100 or 1N4764. Replace D11 with BZX85C13 or 1N4743.

4) D5 and D7 are the half-wave AC rectifier diodes. These diodes rectify the AC voltage input into pulsating DC for the HV supply. This voltage is then smoothed by the C10 and C11 capacitors. Replace these diodes with 1N4007's.

The following list of parts are not essential to replace, but are a good idea to...

5) The C10 and C11 capacitors: These smooth the rectified DC voltage into a proper DC voltage. Without these caps, you would get "waves" through the display as the voltage fluctuates. Replace them with 220uF 200V electrolytic capacitors. (The schematic shows these caps as 150uF 200V, but the majority of DE power supplies have 220uF 200V caps fitted from manufacture)

6) The C12 and C13 capacitors: These capacitors decouple the voltage to ground. Replace these with 0.1uF 500V MKT or ceramic capacitors.


After replacing all of these parts, the High Voltage section should now work, and you will have your display up and running again!

[Pinball Fixers]

Excellent guide, Owen.

I have some of my own findings in the HV section which I would like to share after you have posted your update to that section. Seems there is a REVISION of power supply that made it to production that is not common, but is a PAIN to work out from the schematics.

But I won't "jump the gun".. Keep the updates coming 

There are 2 main versions of the High Voltage section. This guide has covered the later one... I will be covering the earlier version with the older DE power supply thread that I will be starting later tonight...

Also, the DE and Sega pinballs that have the large DMD do not have a High Voltage section on the power supply. This is because the large DMD only needs +12V to run, and then steps up the voltage on the DMD board itself.

[Strangeways]

Excellent guide, Owen.

I have some of my own findings in the HV section which I would like to share after you have posted your update to that section. Seems there is a REVISION of power supply that made it to production that is not common, but is a PAIN to work out from the schematics.

But I won't "jump the gun".. Keep the updates coming 

There are 2 main versions of the High Voltage section. This guide has covered the later one... I will be covering the earlier version with the older DE power supply thread that I will be starting later tonight...

Also, the DE and Sega pinballs that have the large DMD do not have a High Voltage section on the power supply. This is because the large DMD only needs +12V to run, and then steps up the voltage on the DMD board itself.

There is a third variant..

[Pinball Fixers]

Excellent guide, Owen.

I have some of my own findings in the HV section which I would like to share after you have posted your update to that section. Seems there is a REVISION of power supply that made it to production that is not common, but is a PAIN to work out from the schematics.

But I won't "jump the gun".. Keep the updates coming 

There are 2 main versions of the High Voltage section. This guide has covered the later one... I will be covering the earlier version with the older DE power supply thread that I will be starting later tonight...

Also, the DE and Sega pinballs that have the large DMD do not have a High Voltage section on the power supply. This is because the large DMD only needs +12V to run, and then steps up the voltage on the DMD board itself.

There is a third variant..

OK, you've got me intrigued now...

[Strangeways]

I'll wait until you are up to that section, Owen. Put it this way - It was a "mistake" in the schematic and the Version of one of the -02 boards..