Coin door plug replacement for WPC

[MartyJ]

I recently purchased a NOS coin door from Pinball Spare Parts Aust recently which I intend to use on my next project.

Many of the coin doors on sale already had the earlier WPC-95 plugs but I prefer the 'single' coin slot doors which had the later Pinball 2000 connector.

Please note this is for WPC.

The first step was to locate the correct schematic for the Coin Interface Board (p/n A-14689) which was available on page 116 of Getaway manual.  Most WPC manuals are available from IPDB and I won't post the schematic here for risk of copyright violations.

Parts:

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1505
(14 pin female molex housing) or ~
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?crn=244&rn=1047&action=show_detail
(20 pin female molex housing)

For WPC you only need 13 pins.  I used my dremmel to cut the other slots off and used the sanding bit to clean it up.  This could be done with a sharp blade or hacksaw etc...Given I was using a dremmel goggles / mask is a must as you don't want a glob of hot plastic in your eye.

[MartyJ]

Parts:

You will need 10 x the .156 Trifurcon crimp terminals & 1 x key spacer

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1407
http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1499

or~

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?crn=244&rn=1057&action=show_detail
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/index.php?crn=244&rn=1060&action=show_detail

If the Trifurcon terminals come in the strip, you will have to trim either side.  Again sharp pieces of metal come flying off, so I wore goggles again!.
The quantity of .156 Trifurcon terminals are for a single slot door.  If you are running more coin mechs, you will need extra.

[MartyJ]

The next job is to cut the unwanted connector off and crimp the new .156 connectors on.
I did not have a set of the proper crimpers but I've ordered a set from RTBB.

I used a set of pointed pliers to do the job.  To do this properly took me about 15 min to strip and crimp.  If I had the proper crimpers would be a 5 min job.

[MartyJ]

Next was to simply push the correct terminal into the housing - in the right order. 

From the schematics the order is as follows for J3:

Pin 1 - 6.3v AC
Pin 2 - 6.3v AC
Pin 3 - switch ground
Pin 4 - Left Coin 1
Pin 5 - Centre Coin 2
Pin 6 - Right Coin 3
Pin 7 - Dig sw 1 (esc)
Pin 8 - Dig sw 2 ( - )
Pin 9 - Dig sw 3 ( + )
Pin 10 - KEY
Pin 11 - Dig sw 4 ( ent )
Pin 12 - Col. 2
Pin 13 - Row. 1

[MartyJ]

So all up the cost for the plug is under $5.00 (RTBB).  I believe there are adaptors available but I don't know the costs of these.

I double checked each wire with a continuity test to make sure it was going to the correct pin.  I would not rely on colour codes alone and although some of the black wires have a stripe to identify it, it would be easy to mix them up.

The only other modification I had to install was a mount for the coin door switch.  My getaway had the switch mounted in the old coin door so this wouldn't work on the new NOS ones (one I purchased a while back).

I purchased a bracket WMS p/n 01-12676.  This is game dependant.

[markc]

guys  I will do a kit on www.pinballspareparts.com.au   for this

give me a day and i will have it up


thanks

mark

[MartyJ]

guys  I will do a kit on www.pinballspareparts.com.au   for this

give me a day and i will have it up


thanks

mark

Very good idea....!

Are you getting any of the 01-12676 brackets in your coming containers?  I can post a photo if required.

[RatBag]

Seeing as they are different if any of the Perth boys want to use the original 13 pin ITW Pancon connector on their doors drop me a line as we have plenty in stock

[slammer]

Just to let you know, I purchased the twin coin US versions with the correct plugs on already.

The other bonus was that they had American quarter mechs installed as well in the door.

Cheers Angelo

[slammer]

I just installed the coin doors.

The Junkyard was a piece of piss, straight up it took all of 5 mins.

The terminator 2 is another story, the T2 has a switch that mounts to the back of the coin door assembly, which the newer style has no mount.

So I removed the mount from the new coin door assembly, and painted the old one flat black, and only transferred the swinging part of the coin door assembly, if you know what I mean.

The hardest part was changing the inserts/coin lanes for the aussie coin mechs that I have, one mech $1 and the other an electronic mech for 20c, $1 and $2

Cheers Angelo

[MartyJ]

I just installed the coin doors.

The Junkyard was a piece of piss, straight up it took all of 5 mins.

The terminator 2 is another story, the T2 has a switch that mounts to the back of the coin door assembly, which the newer style has no mount.

So I removed the mount from the new coin door assembly, and painted the old one flat black, and only transferred the swinging part of the coin door assembly, if you know what I mean.

The hardest part was changing the inserts/coin lanes for the aussie coin mechs that I have, one mech $1 and the other an electronic mech for 20c, $1 and $2

Cheers Angelo

Hi Angelo,

On my Getaway the switch was mounted in the door frame too.  I finished up purchasing the bracket (01-12676) which moved the positioning of the switch to work with the new doors!

I havn't done any mechs as yet...My missus wants coin mechs in the games to help pay for a new pinny!

[markc]

molex and pins should be up tomorrow
just  got some more in


note the aussie doors are fine 


makr

[pinball god]

So all up the cost for the plug is under $5.00 (RTBB).  I believe there are adaptors available but I don't know the costs of these.

I double checked each wire with a continuity test to make sure it was going to the correct pin.  I would not rely on colour codes alone and although some of the black wires have a stripe to identify it, it would be easy to mix them up.

The only other modification I had to install was a mount for the coin door switch.  My getaway had the switch mounted in the old coin door so this wouldn't work on the new NOS ones (one I purchased a while back).

I purchased a bracket WMS p/n 01-12676.  This is game dependant.

Had the same problem for my TZ and T2. I made a bracket out of aluminium and screwed it to the cabinet. Think it works great?? The silly thing is that both machines have the switch but it is not used. I did it just for the hell of it, rather than have it just flap in the breeze.

[FirePower]

I'd add that when you put the new molex pins into the plug you need to pay attention that they go the right way around.  The little metal tang that sticks out the back of the molex crimp terminal is keyed to fit into the plug housing to stop the crimp terminal pushing out the back of the plastic plug as the plug and socket are connected. Not the best explanation, but have  look and a think and it should be easy to work out. The tang would be visible on the bottom side of the assembled plug in MartyJ's picture.