FT light problem

[silverball]

Did a single lamp test and found I actually have almost a complete row of  lamps 18 28 38 48 58 68 78 non functioning (put new globes in to make sure). The only lamp on that row that works is lamp 88 the start button. Note Red-Grey wire is common to all these lamps. I have checked them all physically, no wires seem to be loose or disconnected, Checked the connector on the board, it to looks fine. I am a novice at all this, and am absolutely stumped by it.

I mentioned earlier in this thread to do a single lamp test. Start button is part of the lamp matrix. Check continuity from the last wire in the string to the connector in the backbox, a visual check isnt enough.

[silverball]

Greg - Start Button is outside the switch matrix (from memory).

Could be the connector - even if it looks OK - Push in the individual wires with a small flat-head screwdriver.

Switch 88 would be part of the switch matrix.
Check allconnections as Nino suggested.

[Extra Ball]

Greg - Start Button is outside the switch matrix (from memory).

Could be the connector - even if it looks OK - Push in the individual wires with a small flat-head screwdriver.

Switch 88 would be part of the switch matrix.
Check allconnections as Nino suggested.

thanks, did you see the photos I posted earlier in this thread.......thinking the wires are just in the wrong order

[silverball]

Greg - Start Button is outside the switch matrix (from memory).

Could be the connector - even if it looks OK - Push in the individual wires with a small flat-head screwdriver.

Switch 88 would be part of the switch matrix.
Check allconnections as Nino suggested.

thanks, did you see the photos I posted earlier in this thread.......thinking the wires are just in the wrong order

Yep 2 wires definately in the wrong spot.....was more concerned about the hack and burnt connector.

[Extra Ball]

Reckon I can get a new connector, and just use a screwdriver to push the wires in? I dont have a IDC inserting tool. The connector looks to have been melted when they put the jumper wire on, shame but at least I worked it out (hopefully).

[silverball]

Reckon I can get a new connector, and just use a screwdriver to push the wires in? I dont have a IDC inserting tool.

I have worked with IDC connectors for 20 years.....basic rule, not designed for multistranded cables.
You can use a small screwdriver to terminate, be sure to push the wires just above and below the insulation displacement blades otherwise you can damage or spread them wider, making for a worse connection(if that makes sense)

[Extra Ball]

Just an update. I bought a new molex .156 connector from jaycar (did away with the IDC connector), put it on and it didnt resolve the main problem. What it did do was allow E lane roll-over to be able to be moved so you can score the other L I lanes. So I did fix a problem at least. Also got to use my super-duper crimper from the USA for the first time ;) Gunna take a few days off from fault finding the lamp issue, its done my head in. I've been dreaming about red-grey wires (no joking) lol

[Extra Ball]

Another update:
Also I found that lamp 28 Jackpot will lite ingame correctly, but in a single or full lamp test will not lite at all. The I lamp of the L I E seems to be flashing, kinda half flashing when the fish lamps are flashing (this started happening after I replaced the connector, and changed the position of 2 wires in the connector).

As it stands on this problem row I have lamp 88 functioning correctly, and lamp 28 functioning ingame when it should be, but not in test mode. Anyone think I have a short somewhere?

[Extra Ball]

Struck me to check the L I E lights behind the big mermaid plastic. Here is what i found:



Some people should not be let near a pinball machine  :evil:
Looks like the pcb is fine, but gunna be a bugga of job getting them pins out.

[ajlaird]

Cut them off underneath the plastic with some good sidecutters - if you can't get in there then cut the plastic instead - and then desolder each pin individually.

[Strangeways]

Cut them off underneath the plastic with some good sidecutters - if you can't get in there then cut the plastic instead - and then desolder each pin individually.

Yep - You can use an exacto or any sharp craft knife to cut off the plastic - Then you can heat the pins from the top, or longer end, and just pull them out with a pair of pliers. Clean up excess solder off the board and you could sand the solder pads with 360 Grit wet/dry. Solder in new connector pins.

[Extra Ball]

Cut them off underneath the plastic with some good sidecutters - if you can't get in there then cut the plastic instead - and then desolder each pin individually.

- Then you can heat the pins from the top, or longer end, and just pull them out with a pair of pliers.

wish you had posted this a day earlier Nino, I got the job done, am not real happy with the way it looks, but it works............BUT it didnt fix the lamp matrix issue 

[Extra Ball]

Woohoo! Jumped for joy and woke my sleeping dog in the shed when I found this today:



Re-joined it and all those lights now function!

How a wire was broken in its harness is anyones guess.

[Wotto]

Good news - 
Dont ya love those little hidden things that frustrate you for weeks   

[rads]

Well done.  Perserverence pays off.