Author Topic: WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP  (Read 525 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline ddstoys

  • Trade Count: (+23)
  • ******
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Geelong
WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP
« on: April 21, 2010, 08:43:05 PM »
Would anyone have a copy of a williams system 3 sound board schematic or layout \parts list?

Ive been searching but can only find info on the later model one with speech option.

Offline FirePower

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • *****
  • Forum Posts:
  • Sydney
Re: WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP
« Reply #1 on: April 21, 2010, 09:21:05 PM »
Yep, just sent a layout, schematic and link info to your email. Hope they help.

Offline ddstoys

  • Trade Count: (+23)
  • ******
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Geelong
Re: WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP
« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2010, 06:53:54 PM »
Right good news i have had the board making the correct sounds  $#$   But there is a Pot on the board which cuts the sound in and out so im going to replace it can anyone tell me what its value is.  Ive had a look through all the info Firepower sent me and can only find one pot which is 5k Ohm but there were two style of soundboard and im not sure if its for the correct one.

It the pot just above the ioj4 plug???

Offline ddstoys

  • Trade Count: (+23)
  • ******
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Geelong
Re: WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2010, 06:57:43 PM »
Its OK guys ive just found it Lazerballs manual has the parts list for this style of board  ^^^

Offline ddstoys

  • Trade Count: (+23)
  • ******
  • High Score Initials:
  • Forum Posts:
  • Geelong
Re: WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2010, 08:05:56 PM »
Right ive replaced the Pot and we have had some success the sound works for a while then cuts out reboot the machine and the sound comes back on for a little while then cuts out again.  When the test button is pressed it plays the constant tone but doesnt cut out   !@#

  Where should i look now ive replaced all the caps on the board and it also has new CPU \ Rom \Pia \Crystal

 Cant wait to finish this one so i can get it out of my shed  !*!

Offline ajlaird

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • ******
  • Forum Posts:
  • Greensborough, Melbourne
  • Go Ahead, Make My Day
Re: WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP
« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2010, 08:19:11 PM »
Check that the transistor isn't overheating - but it sounds more like a connector problem or something leading into the input side of things.

Offline FirePower

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • *****
  • Forum Posts:
  • Sydney
Re: WILLIAMS SYSTEEM 3 SOUNDBOARD HELP
« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2010, 10:28:16 AM »
Hi Daniel,
a couple of thoughts that may help, having recently acquired a dodgy sound card I've been reading up on this stuff!

- have a read of the World Cup sound card manual. I have a recollection that the test button functions slightly differently with the toggle switch in the notes or synthesised sound different positions. This may not be relevant. Reading between the lines I got the feeling the older sound roms were a bit more primitive in the test routines (Phoenix doesn't have test capability?). Not stopping producing a constant tone when button is pressed sounds normal behaviour to me.  Maybe try the prom from your brothers' Time Warp?

- assume all the links are correctly set for the prom / rom you have installed?

- I'd stick a logic probe or scope on the 1408 input lines - pins 5 to 12. The idea behind this chip is that the pia puts a digital value on these input pins and an output current (proportional to the input value) is generated on pin 4, so I'd measure pin 4 as well.  BTW the 1408  looks like it can be replaced with a DAC0808.  This info should tell you if the fault is in the digital or analog section, by the sounds of it (note very poor pun) your problem is in the analog section.

- if the digital section proves to be all ok then there is not much in the analog. When you say you've replaced all caps, did you mean all electros or ALL caps? Depending on what bits you have around I'd replace C13 first, next C8 and C9 then Q3, Q4 and the TDA2002 audio amp all pretty cheap and easy to do. That's the stuff in the top right of the schematic

Hope this helps.