Anyone have success with #555 LEDs ??

[pinnies4me]

I purchased a set of #555 LEDs to try in AFM. They actually **look** sensational when working in the area I wanted to try, and I'd want then in a second area too but for a specific problem.

I find that they slip out of the lamp holder. Of six, three came out during the first ball, I expect from the normal vibration. On close examination I realised that the normal lamps are actually moulded with a tiny indentation that is grabbed by the lamp socket terminals, whereas the style of LEDs I bought are absolutely straight so it's clear why they come out as they are made correctly IMO. Has anyone overcome this problem, or found a source of properly moulded ones?

[Pop Bumper Pete]

I use the Ablaze ones from Pinball life
I have not had a problem with them in my Stern games (but these are a different socket)

I just tried one in a socket on my Earthshaker (a twist in socket on a circuit board)
The lamp holder seemed to grip the lamp fairly firmly

[pinnies4me]

I use the Ablaze ones from Pinball life

Which version - 1 or 3 LED ?

[Pop Bumper Pete]

3 LED

[MrMaloo]

I had a similar problem with 555 led's particularly in the pop bumpers . The way I fixed it was to use a small blob of silastic between the led and the lamp holder to "stick" them in place . It's soft enough that if you need to remove the led later you can .

A couple of tips though :

- Don't get any silicon on the contacts (not sure how it would react)
- Make sure you put the 555 led into the lamp holder the right way before "gluing" it (most 555's are polar sensitive so will only work when installed the right way).

[Homepin]

anyone here tried these:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/100-LED-lights-all-6-3V-pinball-machines-/160456975440?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_CoinOp&hash=item255bfb2450

If using silicone on or near ANYTHING electrical or near any contacts make sure the silicone is "non-corrosive' type or you might get a nasty shock in only a few days as ordinary silicone will gobble up almost all metals (except stainless steel). See here for a des-cr-ip-tion of it - Bunnings sell it as well, you have to read the labels carefully on the tubes:

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0494118


"The material does not evolve any corrosive volatiles, e.g. acetic acid, amines, during cure and is therefore suitable for use on copper, its alloys and other sensitive metals. This property also results in a very low odour emission compared to acetoxy grades. The thixotropic paste has excellent adhesion to most materials (except PTFE and polyethylene) and can withstand temperatures of -55°C to +180°C whilst still maintaining chemical resistance. Typical uses are protection of semiconductor junctions, finishing protection of assemblies and delicate devices, sealing to copper clad items.

Note

Not considered to be ’food safe’."


  

[pinnies4me]

Thanks for the tips guys. I decided I'd try and create a similar grove in the shaft by using a small  needle nose pliers, and squeezing that with a vice pliers set to the appropriate gap. Worked well, and they sit very nicely, feel tight to a pull test (un-modified ones come out with the slightest of tugging) and survived a couple of games. Unfortunately one must have been damaged in the process, so now I'm down another one, and still not finished this area!

Overall, it's a big thumbs down to the #555 leds unless you want to fiddle around with some of the fixes mentioned, or source the Pinball Life ones which seem better, although some RGPing suggested only marginally overall. Why **none** of the manufacturers took three seconds to look at the design of a 555 lamp and mould the same is beyond me.

[ddstoys]

I think I remember Marco said somethingabout extending the wire in LEDs but im not sure which thread it was in