Author Topic: Medieval Madness service buttons inside coin door not responding  (Read 625 times)

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Offline andrej

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Medieval Madness service buttons inside coin door not responding
« on: February 10, 2011, 12:13:26 AM »
Hi, this is the first time I've posted and i have no idea about how to do a repair, but here's my problem.

None of the service buttons are responding, I can't load credits or do tests. I'm guessing a wire has dropped off somewhere. The machine illuminates, says coin door is open and everything else seems normal.

Can anyone assist this lame ass with any advice.....in plain english??? Photo attached

cheers

Offline ddstoys

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First thing if do is  remove the backglass and display.   And remove and re install the switch plugs on the bottom of the CPU.    (rectangle board on the lower left corner).

Offline pinnies4me

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Is there any green fuzz from battery leakage on the components from the battery holder on the CPU board?  This fault can happen if the batteries have leaked onto the board. If so, you have some work to do, let us know.
“If you wanna escape, go up to a pinball machine. There’s a magic button on the front that takes you to a world under the glass and makes the the rest of the universe disappear.”

Offline MartyJ

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Andrej,

In addition to the above suggestions, 1st thing I would look at is the coin door interface board.  With the game off and unplugged for safety, remove the playfield glass and lockdown bar.  Next remove ALL balls (to save breaking playfield plastics) and slide / lift up playfield.

On the coin door there should be a black covered wiring loom (ie black plastic tubing) which goes from the coin door loom to a small PCB (circuit board) on the inner left hand side of the cabinet.  There will be a white plug on the end of the loom which plugs into the small PCB.  Just make sure that is connected OK and maybe just reseat it.

Is the rest of the game playing OK?

Did you purchase the game from a commercial dealer?  If the problem is on the CPU board (ie battery damage), maybe contact them before digging into it.


Offline beaky

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does it have 2 white buttons on the door frame that get pushed in when the door is closed?
if it does one will have 4 wires & one will have 2 wires. the one with 2 wires is the memory protect switch. make sure that this switch is working.
try removing one of the wires off the white switch with 2 wires and try the adjust buttons again. (remove the wire with the pin turned off)
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Offline MartyJ

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does it have 2 white buttons on the door frame that get pushed in when the door is closed?
if it does one will have 4 wires & one will have 2 wires. the one with 2 wires is the memory protect switch. make sure that this switch is working.
try removing one of the wires off the white switch with 2 wires and try the adjust buttons again. (remove the wire with the pin turned off)

Being a WPC95 it should have the Interlock switch assembly unless its been Eurohacked tm

Although - if the coin door switch is not operating it should display an error on the DMD ie..Open coin door...

Andrej indicated he is a novice so I wouldn't suggest to be pulling out wires just yet until the problems been identified.

Andrej - Where did you buy the pin (ie commercial seller) and how long ago did you get it?

Offline beaky

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I will keep my help to my self from now on  Every time I suggest something some one seems to knock me & I am sick of it.. FYI in the last 20 years there is not one pinball machine or arcade monitor that I haven't been able to fix when I personally attend.
 
« Last Edit: February 12, 2011, 09:26:55 PM by beaky »
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Offline andrej

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OK guys, thanks for all your help and comments, all appreciated.

1. I removed backglass and checked and re installed switch plugs on the CPU bottom left hand corner.....all looked ok
2. No green fuzz from battery leakage
3. Small PCB on onside of machine door checked fine, reseated them
4. Pulled wires on the memory protector switch, no difference made.

The display works fine, it tells me that coin door is open when it is, I can use flippers to check high scores etc, scroll. The playfield is all lit ready to go. It's just that I can't operate the buttons which provide me with credits etc. Up until now it has worked a treat. So I can't actually play it at all.
I'm in Adelaide, I bought the machine from 240 Amusements in Melb and had it shipped over about 4-5 years ago. They have been very helpful to me, just on this occasion I'm stuck.

240 said to me (from memory) it could have something to do with it being earthed?? Not exactly sure if this is what he said but thought to mention it here in case it means anything to you guys.

The photo I have attached is from underneath the buttons, and the main wiring loom does look ok, these wires here were tucked in near the switches, i pulled them down to show them in the photo, there is no plug on the end of any of these black/orang wires so itdoesnt look like theyve come off anything? Although I do notice spots for where 3 plugs could go right near the buttons, you might see it in the picture.

Anyway, thanks everyone for their help, other than offering any further advice, do you know any technicians in Adelaide? Looks like a $10 problem to me that might cost me a lot more than that by the time I get someone out!


Offline beaky

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if i can post this without being knocked.
It looks like these bare wires are from the coin switches.
i know u were saying u cant get any credits or tests from the buttons but do you get volume up & down from the 2 inner red buttons?
all 4 buttons have 1 common wire and if that one wire is not conducting properly on a plug somewhere then none of those buttons will work.
if you can see on the outer black switch in the photo there is a black wire and an orange wire, get a small flat screw driver and short those 2 wires out.
if u do this & the test menu comes up it will determine if you have faulty push button switches.
and before anyone says its unlikely that all the switches are faulty I came across this exact same fault on one of cave of treasures pins. all the buttons where stuffed.
if we determine that it is not the switches then we will move on.
also with those wires that are hanging there i would advise you cut the exposed inner conductor off at the end of those wires and put some insulation tape over them

« Last Edit: February 14, 2011, 01:30:15 AM by beaky »
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Offline MartyJ

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I will keep my help to my self from now on  Every time I suggest something some one seems to knock me & I am sick of it.. FYI in the last 20 years there is not one pinball machine or arcade monitor that I haven't been able to fix when I personally attend.
 

Beaky

I have just re-read my post and you will note I have not edited it (original post).
I think you might be reading a bit much into things at least in this post.

Andrej indicated in his first post he was a novice and not done any repairs. I suggested that until the problem was identified I would hold off pulling wires off the interlock switch. I agree that it should be there but in my five years I have seen these hacked and removed which I am sure you have too.

We are all adults here and can have different views. Again there was no personal attack.

My only intentions are to help the original poster identify and fix the problem.

With the reply from Andrej it looks like the issue may be identified and yes you are most likely correct.


**- had to edit this post to fix up iPhone double-ups!
« Last Edit: February 14, 2011, 08:40:19 AM by MartyJ »

Offline FirePower

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Beaky you're talking complete rubbish - at least in the part where you want to take your bat and ball and go home.

Communications by email where people have never met can be tough at times, speech nuances and the extra info available when face to face with someone, the history of personal interaction and so on is lost and this can make it seem like people are jumping on you.  In person the offence would probably not even be noticed.  One of the things I like about AP is the civility and support that exists, different and contrasting opinions are offered up but it stays away from personal attacks which is the way it should be - and I say that as probably one of the more contrarian stroppy gits on the site.

Fault finding remotely is incredibly difficult and I reckon anyone asking a question is grateful for all opinions offered.  It's almost given that some will be correct and others less so, your thoughts like all others are well worth reading and contribute to the knowledge pool. I hope you continue to offer your advice.
 

Offline Strangeways

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Let's keep this civil people and get back to the issue at hand. Andrej has a technical issue that we need to resolve together. Keep the personal stuff off the topic, and if it progresses we will remove the negative comments - ok  %$%

Here a link to the site rules - http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=2.0

No need for anyone to go anywhere  ^^^

I don't have a WPC95 at hand,  but I have a schematic of an NBA Fastbreak that I will try to help out with. Have the machine switched off for these tests.

All the door switches are Dedicated ground switches that pass throught the Coin door interface board. They all return to the CPU board via the J205 connector. These IDC connectors are notorious for bad connections. I would remove J205 (CPU board) and look at the connector to ascertain that no wires are loose. Refit J205 and on the coin interface board, reseat J1 and J3. 240 Amusements are referring to a GREEN grounding wire that is connected on the door and is screwed into the cabinet, usually near the leg bolt plate. This HAS to be a good connection. Check the continuity with a multi meter.

Those loose wires are for the coin swithes. As mentioned, either wrap them with electrical tape (not good if the are earthing against the door), or cut the ends off so there is no exposed wire.

On the switche buttons themselves, there's a black wire that is common to all buttons. If there is a break in this wire to pin 3 of the front door connector, then this will be a problem. The path MAY be broken by those coin door wires. To one coin switch, there will be one black wire and the second (on the right) will be TWO black wires joined. Looking at the loose wires, I'd be checking that.

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Offline beaky

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The path MAY be broken by those coin door wires. To one coin switch, there will be one black wire and the second (on the right) will be TWO black wires joined. Looking at the loose wires, I'd be checking that.


I think you may have it there Strangeways. I went and had a look on a NOS coin door for a wpc95 pin, on the one i have  the ground wire goes to the coin switches first then returns to the service buttons. you will need to strip the two black wires and twist them together and insulate them. then put them in a place where they wont get caught in the door when you close it.

« Last Edit: February 14, 2011, 08:30:41 PM by beaky »
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Offline andrej

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GUYS,

I can't believe how helpful you all are and I thank you all for your advice.  I will endeavour to try the things you have suggested, might call my sparky (brother) who is likely to understand some of this stuff better than me.
I'll let you know what happened for your own curiosity as soon as I get a chance to do it.

I love my MM, got to be one of the best pinnies I've ever played!

Offline Strangeways

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GUYS,

I can't believe how helpful you all are and I thank you all for your advice.  I will endeavour to try the things you have suggested, might call my sparky (brother) who is likely to understand some of this stuff better than me.
I'll let you know what happened for your own curiosity as soon as I get a chance to do it.

I love my MM, got to be one of the best pinnies I've ever played!

Hopefully, we have pointed you in the right direction - Let us know how things progress..
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