Clear coat FT

[mickthepin]

What's the general feeling of clear coating a Fish Tales, my concern being that it could make it to fast. When I put new rubbers on and a fresh wax the ball can get so much speed that it comes flying off the ramp mid-way round. I want to clear coat it for protection but I have heard people say that it can make a game to fast and FT is already a fast game. Ideas??

[MartyJ]

They were clearcoated from the factory so I would not be to concerned.

[Pinprick]

They were clearcoated from the factory so I would not be to concerned.

Besides, FAST is much better than sluggish. Your reactions will compensate pretty quickly too.
Not to mention the vast cosmetic & longevity improvement.
And you can always lower the machine's inclination to slow things down if neccessary.

[Strangeways]

They were clearcoated from the factory so I would not be to concerned.

Besides, FAST is much better than sluggish. Your reactions will compensate pretty quickly too.
Not to mention the vast cosmetic & longevity improvement.
And you can always lower the machine's inclination to slow things down if neccessary.

I agree. I'd rather have a faster game WITH the advantage of permanent protection of the playfield. I think it is a great idea for a keeper pin. You can always "slow down" the game with black rubbers, but they tend to make the game look crap. I much prefer white rubbers.

[mickthepin]

+1 on the white rubbers. Were all "diamond plate" fields clear coated at the factory??

[Caveoftreasures]

I always thought the "diamond plate" was the clearcoat from factory. It is very very thin compared to what people are doing today.

[GORGAR 1]

Good clean and wax would be sufficient for home use wouldn't it? Unless you've touched up the machine then CC is better for protection but in general isn't CC over kill?

Peter

[Caveoftreasures]

Good clean and wax would be sufficient for home use wouldn't it? Unless you've touched up the machine then CC is better for protection but in general isn't CC over kill?

Peter

I was hoping someone who had a machine clear coated a few years ago, who has put hundreds and hundreds of games on it, could give the rest of us some feedback as to how the machine is holding up etc. What I have always wondered, is if a machine starts to show signs of wear with the clearcoat for whatever reason, how do u then fix the playfield ? or is it a matter that the clear coat is like clear nail polish and is as hard as the hobs of hell. Can marks in a clearcoat job be polished out if they appear from lots of ball/game use. 

[mickthepin]

yep I was gunna touch up one spot on the play field gorgar that's why I was thinking clear coat

[MartyJ]

I've cleared (2K) quite a few playfields.

I will ONLY clear a playfield if it requires touchups or if the factory clear was so thin it needs it. 

Otherwise as Pete suggested just a good clean, polish and wax does the trick.

As long as the clear is allowed time to setup and cure before reassembly and ball play, it will last without any issues whatsoever.