Wpc-s Power driver pcb cooking

[pinball god]

This is a preliminary question based on me buying a rotten dog equivalent. My ToM pcb has always had GI problems on the back glass. Replaced connectors etc etc and GI 1 & 2 work for awhile then faulter. The last issue before now was one fuse holder heating up and melting tracks and plastic. I had the game on for about an hour or two straight. Fixed this and all worked fine although I havent played it too much. Today while checking the batteries I noticed one string on the bg out and the other remaning on during the GI test.

So I want to buy a replacement but do you think the heating/GI problem is board related or do you suspect something else is cooking the pcb and that will cook my new pcb?

[beaky]

replacing the board may not permanently fix the problem.
did you replace the headers when you replaced the pins and housings and did you use the high temperature versions?
I would replace the fuse holder and solder it on the top and bottom of the board. the fuse holder can melt if the solder joint is bad or the clips on the fuse holder has lost its tension and is not a tight fit on the fuse, even a cheap / faulty fuse can cause this to happen.
also make sure that the fuses are the correct value and all the G.I. wiring is correct.
make sure the voltage setting is correct I.E. make sure it is set to 240v not 210V, if the voltage is set wrong the lamps will draw more current and stress all the components in the G.I. circuit.

If it is all repaired properly then you shouldn't have any dramas.

I am happy to take a look at it for you if you get stuck

[Homepin]

Avoid buying ANY replacement board that has surface mounted parts as they are basically 'throw away' if they should give trouble in the future. As far as I am aware the Rottendog boards are NOT surface mount BUT do your homework first.

Like Beaky says, I would suspect other things before replacing the board.

[pinball god]

Thanks guys I may need someone to look at it. When it cooked I got a tech to repair it but my gut says that if the game is on for a time and I mean not hours but 2-3 I reckon it breaks down due to heat.

When I bought it, I noticed one bulb missing in the bg. When I put one in not long after the GI's died. The tech came and replaced the connectors etc. but they died again 6 months later and I replaced them myself. Then one day after playing a an hour I left it on while having dinner and a talk with the wife I noticed the bg GI going off and smelt burning where I saw the fuse had actually melted but kept contact and caused the pcb fuse holder to melt until the GI died.

So I reckon there is something a miss ths is causing the heat. I have some LEDs in there hoping to drop the heat and voltage draw. Btw where do I set the voltage from 210 to 240?

[beaky]

I will post a picture of the connector set up for 230/240v. (if some one knows of a post covering this already please post a link) also you can do a voltage check and see what voltage you are getting to your G.I.s circuit with a multi meter. set the meter to A.C. and test across J115 pin 3 and pin 12 (this is just one of the several G.I. Circuits and it is located next to the G.I. fuses)
the manual says 6.8 volts so if it is higher than this the mains voltage jumpers are probably set to a voltage lower than 230v.

I would be happy to repair the G.I. section on your driver board if you need it done.

[pinball god]

Thanks beaky. Would like to see a pic of jumper arrangement so I can sus that out first. Once I get the prelims out of the way I would like to send the pcb for a check up etc. knowing nothing else will cause it to burn again after the pcb has been repaired will probably be a good step forward. I will be in contact shortly thanks

[Retropin]

I think Beaky is bang on the money here... you obviously have far too much current being drawn and this would suggest that it is configured to a lower voltage other than 240V

[beaky]

Here is the picture. The locking tab goes to the top. Sorry it took so long, I haven't had any internet access for nearly 2 days due to an outage in the area.

[johnwartjr]

That's a WPC voltage plug, like in Doctor Who. ToM is WPC-S, the larger 12-pin connector.

If you remove the voltage plug, and put the tab to remove it pointing down, pin #1 is the upper left corner

For 240 volt operation, you need 3 jumpers

Pin 1 to pin 11
Pin 3 to pin 9
Pin 7 to pin 10

Properly repaired, as Beaky stated, the GI in your TOM should be good for YEARS of trouble-free use, especially in the home. There's something else wrong, and it's going to smoke a replacement board. Get another tech.

[pinball god]

That's a WPC voltage plug, like in Doctor Who. ToM is WPC-S, the larger 12-pin connector.

If you remove the voltage plug, and put the tab to remove it pointing down, pin #1 is the upper left corner

For 240 volt operation, you need 3 jumpers

Pin 1 to pin 11
Pin 3 to pin 9
Pin 7 to pin 10

Properly repaired, as Beaky stated, the GI in your TOM should be good for YEARS of trouble-free use, especially in the home. There's something else wrong, and it's going to smoke a replacement board. Get another tech.

Have looked at what I figure is the jumpers. There are two connectors, one I figure is the power that has a 9 wire plug with wires going towards where the transformer is??? The other is a 12 pin plug. The following jumper wires are

1-11
3-9
2-7 not what is stated above. What setting is this or is it just a mistake by the guy setting this game for 240v. Game was from Europe.

Thank you

[pinball god]

 

Here is the picture. The locking tab goes to the top. Sorry it took so long, I haven't had any internet access for nearly 2 days due to an outage in the area.

Thanks for the photo at least I can use it as a reference for my t2 etc appreciate your effort

[beaky]

whoops sorry I was thinking TAF not TOM, I should read things properly.  plus I really need to get a set of glasses, the pair i use for board repairs are only good for close up stuff.

I am not sure what your jumpers are set at. Can anyone send me a link for the transformer jumper wire settings for wpc-s ?

[MartyJ]

That's a WPC voltage plug, like in Doctor Who. ToM is WPC-S, the larger 12-pin connector.

If you remove the voltage plug, and put the tab to remove it pointing down, pin #1 is the upper left corner

For 240 volt operation, you need 3 jumpers

Pin 1 to pin 11
Pin 3 to pin 9
Pin 7 to pin 10

Properly repaired, as Beaky stated, the GI in your TOM should be good for YEARS of trouble-free use, especially in the home. There's something else wrong, and it's going to smoke a replacement board. Get another tech.

Have looked at what I figure is the jumpers. There are two connectors, one I figure is the power that has a 9 wire plug with wires going towards where the transformer is??? The other is a 12 pin plug. The following jumper wires are

1-11
3-9
2-7 not what is stated above. What setting is this or is it just a mistake by the guy setting this game for 240v. Game was from Europe.

Thank you

Hey Rob,

I've purchased all the schematics for WPC, WPC-S & WPC95 etc...

Are you 100% sure of the jumpering from pin 2 to pin 7?

For all the 200v+ settings pin 2 is NC (not connected).  I cannot find any reference to jumpering pin 2 to 7 anywhere....

As JohnWartJnr correctly stated the right pin config for Australia for a WPC-S / WPC95

The white jumper (if done correctly) should be from pin 7 to 10

Re jumpering can be a pain without the right tools.  I've got all the correct size pins, crimpers and pin removal tools your welcome to borrow and use without having to fork out $$ for parts or sending stuff out.

[pinball god]

Hey Marty, Take a look at the photo and tell me what you think?  I couldn't be looking at it upside down???? I thought the latch represented pin 1 end

[MartyJ]

Hi Rob,

Bit hard to tell from that photo.  With power off and the machine unplugged from the wall, that jumpering plug can be simply unplugged and removed from the machine.

Being a young fit whipper snapper, if you look closely the numbers are actually molded onto the plastic so you can check it 100%.

If you're like me, a magnifying glass the size of the hubble telescope helps.