Fathom cleanup questions

[solar value]

Hi Strangeways,

Thanks very much for coming in on this, I really appreciate it.

OK, the machine is not in attract mode - the displays are not cycling, in fact there is only a dull glow in the bottom of each display (although they did flash at one time earlier so they seem to be operational).

Looks like the machine is not booting up - I'm only getting one brief flash on the MPU LED when I turn the game on. 

I also noticed that Fuse F4 has blown on the power module, should I replace it or is it bad to replace the fuse without looking for the cause first? (Another question about fuses - is it possible to use a 250V fuse when the manual says 32V, the 4A and 5A ones I got from Jaycar are 250V?) 

I have re-fitted the connectors on the MPU board without any change, maybe I need to replace some connectors.

As I said, I had the boards looked at by Ken (Skybeaux) and he did say that the header pins at J4 on the lamp board and J3 on the MPU board were corroded and therefore I might need to replace these plugs as well.

Nothing happens when I press the button on the coin door either.

Regards, SV.

P.S. My 10 year-old daughter has told me to use more emoticons in my posts.

[Retropin]

F4 is for the solenoids and wont affect boot up...

No 2nd flash suggest problems with the 6810 RAM.. make sure its seated in its socket properly before doing anything complicated

[solar value]

F4 is for the solenoids and wont affect boot up...

No 2nd flash suggest problems with the 6810 RAM.. make sure its seated in its socket properly before doing anything complicated

Thanks, Retropin. OK, some progress. I'm not sure if it was the pressing of the chips which did it, but I now have six flashes on the mpu led. One flash, then a pause and five more. It doesn't happen every time I power up though, sometimes I have to press the reset button once or more before it will flash.

Actually, I think it was doing this before every now and again.

Does this help?

[Retropin]

Yes it does because the missing 7th flash is your solenoid power and with a blown F4 fuse we already know the cause.

It states that this fuse is meant to be a FAST blo 5A... i have always replaced with a SLO blo 5A fuse.. theres a big in rush of current at start up, if you watch your slo blo fuse at this point it will contract due to stress... a fast blow will just pop.

Then again... you could have a locked on solenoid which is causing the blowing fuse, or a cooked one that has gone short.. this will do it also

[solar value]

Fantastic...replaced the fuse (only had a fast-blo) and we now have a WORKING pinball machine! 

Ran through all the tests and everthing seems to be working properly (except that I don't have flippers on it yet - waiting for parts).

Only thing is I have most of the sounds but not that strange background sound - maybe I need to change the settings.

Anyway, great result - thanks to Strangeways and Retropin.

[Strangeways]

Good work ! Now you are closer to playing one of the best games ever made !

[solar value]

Good work ! Now you are closer to playing one of the best games ever made !

OK, maybe celebrated too soon...this morning I am back to square one. No flashes...sometimes when I press the reset button the LED comes on and stays on. Any ideas what could be causing these intermittent start-up problems?

Cheers, SV.

[Strangeways]

Will be either the power connector on the MPU (J4), the connector pins (in the connector housing) or the ROM sockets on the MPU. Remember - these boards are 30 years old !

[solar value]

Will be either the power connector on the MPU (J4), the connector pins (in the connector housing) or the ROM sockets on the MPU. Remember - these boards are 30 years old !

OK, thanks, could it be something to do with temperature? I left the machine with just the G.I. on for a while and them pressed the reset button a few times. It booted up but the lamp on the solenoid expander board under the playfield was flashing. I did this a few more times (turned it off and on and pressed the reset button repeatedly)and each time it eventually booted up and the lamp on the solenoid expander would be flashing. Then I left it with the G.I. on for a while longer, pressed the reset button again and it booted up and everything seemed to be working OK, no flashing lamp on the expander board. After I left it in attract mode for a while longer I could turn it off and on and it would boot up normally each time without needing to press the reset button. There just seems to be issues as it warms up and then it runs fine.

Does this help to narrow down the problem at all, i.e. are any of the components listed above more likely to need to warm up? 

[Strangeways]

If you are referring to the switch (S33) on the MPU, that's the "memory clear" button. It does not reset the board, unless it has a mod ?

I'd say you have corroded pins on the connector. If Ken has looked at the board, assume it is working - so I'd tackle the connector. If the ROM sockets have not been replaced (tedious and time consuming), then they too could be the problem.

[solar value]

If you are referring to the switch (S33) on the MPU, that's the "memory clear" button. It does not reset the board, unless it has a mod ?

Ahh...OK, yes it is S33, no mods there, that would explain why the sound settings reset.

I'd say you have corroded pins on the connector. If Ken has looked at the board, assume it is working - so I'd tackle the connector. If the ROM sockets have not been replaced (tedious and time consuming), then they too could be the problem.

OK, I'll work on the connector, it is an IDC type (shown below):



Is it better to replace this with a molex .100 type?

[humpalot]

Might be time to call in a tech.

[Strangeways]

That board has no corrosion at all (from the picture).

I'd reseat all the ICs that are mounted in sockets. Be VERY careful doing this, and do not touch the 5101 (U8) with anything metal or your hands. It is prone to static. Obviously do this with the machine off. Gently prize each chip from one side and the other. Don't try to remove the chip from one side. Prize a little at a time until it is out then carefully push the ICs back in without bending the legs. See it the game boots after that !

[solar value]

That board has no corrosion at all (from the picture).

Oh yeah, I should have clarified, the original MPU board had lots of corrosion, which is why Ken suggested the connectors may also have problems, but the board was replaced.

Ken has also kindly offered to check the boards again for me, so we'll see what he finds. I'll keep everyone posted and continue with the suggestions if this doesn't fix the problem.

[solar value]

Okay, boards are back, problem fixed (thanks, Ken).

Next issue....I have a stuck switch in the self-test which is definitely open. It is number 17 "Right Center Target". Anyone know why the self-test might think this is closed? I'm guessing it might be the diode or that wierd green varistor-like thing (what is that anyway?).

Thanks, SV.