KISS the Rollerball nightmare begins..

[ROLLERBALL]

Ok may as well start the thread now...

Who knows where this thread will go and how the machine will look at the end of it...

I guess first thing to do is get rid of the Killer wasps from hell nest under the backbox...

[Strangeways]

Just adds to the machine's Character !

Here's one for the "Metal Heads" ;

I though it was a KISS pinball, not a W.A.S.P Pinball

 

[ROLLERBALL]

Ok time to get serious now...
Im going to need to get onto this Backglass FAST Im thinking....
Its falling apart down the bottom...It is still holding together somewhat...but just...and the metal strip at the bottom of the glass is rusted pretty badly and not sure if you tried to get it off it may take the paint with it...I hear tripple thick then cling wrap and lay some weights on it to hold it down in place can work??Or mylar it into place??Anyway im after your thoughts guys...dont want to stuff it up...

Pics...

[pinnies4me]

I guess first thing to do is get rid of the Killer wasps from hell nest under the backbox...

[Wotto]

Here's one for the "Metal Heads" ;
I though it was a KISS pinball, not a W.A.S.P Pinball

Arrrrrrr- Blackie would be proud of you Nino !
( now there is a true  metal-heads reply )

[dj10555]

Hi Paul,

I would not mylar the backglass. Once this is done, you cannot do any touchups to the glass with mylar in place. Some of the other forums suggest that over time the mylar may actually pull more paint away. I think the triple thick would be the way to go.

[Strangeways]

Hi Paul,

I would not mylar the backglass. Once this is done, you cannot do any touchups to the glass with mylar in place. Some of the other forums suggest that over time the mylar may actually pull more paint away. I think the triple thick would be the way to go.

I concur.

Mylar also can further damage the backglass as the heat from the globes "warms" the adhesive properties of the mylar. In addition. Mylar shrinks over time and it would end up damaging the glass. I think Gavin might have some ideas here - but I've successfully sealed backglasses using the Marvin's guide and I would recommend that you go down this path VERY SOON. I would not be handing that backglass too much as it looks like the bottom might flake off at any moment.

[Mr Pinbologist]

If i may chime in.. I think triple thick is definitely the best way to go for sealing backglasses, i've tried other methods but the triple thick has worked better than anything else ive tried. I too have used Triple Thick and the cling wrap method detailed on the Marvin website to repair the kind of damage pictured on this glass successfully.

[ROLLERBALL]

Yeah i think the clingwrap way is the go as well....will get onto it asap....probably should leave the rusted metal at the bottom and try and clean it up with it still on do you think??

[illawarra_steelers]

Yeah i think the clingwrap way is the go as well....will get onto it asap....probably should leave the rusted metal at the bottom and try and clean it up with it still on do you think??

Paul,

I had a mate restoring a mint Evel Knievel pin and had the same issue with the rusted metal strip. He attempted to take it off and in the process the backglass split in 2. So is it worth the risk? 

[ROLLERBALL]

Ok..lol..the metal can stay then....will clean as much rust off it as i can after ive fixed the glass...and will hit it with  some rust converter then paint it black...

[Ric]

clean up the rusted metal with a wire brush and then prime it or use some other form of metal protection on it - that metal rail has been there almost thirty years and is unlikely to bdge withour causing major damage

the triple thick is the way to go - works super well - i have used it on glasses that are far worse and have got great results - PM if you have any questions

[Wotto]

For some time I have wondered if you could get a 1mm sheet of Perspex cut to the same size as the rear of the backglass.
Would cost about $40.00

Then place the Perspex sheet over the rear of the BG, mark out the score and credit rectangle area’s.
Remove the Perspex, cut out the score/ credit areas
Put Perspex back onto the rear of the BG.

Then ( and this is the unknown part ) use a high quality tape to ‘tape it’ fully around the edges to the glass.
To try and explain this properly I am only talking about using a strip of tape say around 10 or 12 mm in width, that would run down the edge length of the 2 surfaces and then JUST fold around onto the FRONT of the backglass and the REAR of the Perspex, enabling the Perspex to remain in place pressing against the rear of the backglass and holding it all in place. The visible strip of tape at the front of the backglass ( probably about 3-5mm ) would then be hidden in the channels in the backbox when the whole BG is placed back into the machine. NO TAPE would be touching the rear of the original backglass.

However - I have no idea if the Perspex would bow in the middle or be affected by the heat of the globes in any way.

Yet to try this .

Anyone’s thoughts?

[ROLLERBALL]

Not a bad idea...but if the perspex was the same size as the backglass then wouldnt that make it too thick to fit into the backbox channel??

[Wotto]

Not a bad idea...but if the perspex was the same size as the backglass then wouldnt that make it too thick to fit into the backbox channel??

Lets take a look at that this arvo.

Can you also have a hair dryer handy mate