My first EM resto GTB2001 ( 1971 )

[oldskool1969]

little bit of work cleaning the underneath of play field and also the top
underneath was just mild grit sandpaper and automotive clear coat ( for a bit of protection )
on top was first proper clean with shell lite and magic eraser and ready for paint fix ups and repair mylar sections.
WILL NOT clear coat, just a bloody good wax
My research suggests mylar fix and wax as too damaging and risky for an old machine.

[oldskool1969]

As I said in the previous post I wouldn't remove the mylar, well guess what? I did       
Tried 2 methods and one worked very well being a heat gun on low heat and peel back- SLOWLY, then remove residue with orange oil ( oompf )
The other well,  sucked ! I used the freeze spray method and apart from being $$ for the spray it pulled up bits of paint - so looks like I am learning how to paint a play filed now!
I must say though that BUNNINGS was helpful as I took the play field in to match paints and had two chicks looking after me and offering great advise as I had no idea.
Well I just finished sanding back the top surface and ball shooter lane so it looks pretty and helps the paint to adhere ( fingers crossed ) I hope to do some more pictures very soon.
So much for touch ups, looks like it will be completely re-done - god I love this hobby 
This project will never leave my line up as apart from being my first pinball machine and also first restoration. It is also my learning machine and is not up to the standards of the other people who do these beautiful resto's .
As long as it plays like a demon when finished I will be stoked off my head.

[Retropin]

The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.

..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint

[goodolddays]

Sorry to hear its gone a bit pear shaped .

PErhaps a good argument for not removing mylar unless absolutely necessary .
Judging from the pics you had posted of your PF I am surprised to hear you felt the need to remove the mylar.

Best of luck with the repaint and please post some before and after pics 

[oldskool1969]

The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.

..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint

Unfortunately got this off the PINREPAIR website and I believe the freeze works better on newer games, not these old girls.
It is all good though as I love a challenge and am learning heaps and I really like the feedback. 
" Give a man a fish and he eats for a day - teach a man to fish and he eats for a lifetime"

[Strangeways]

The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.

..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint

Freeze spray method is brilliant for factory MYLAR. I've used it plenty of times for DMD titles. Freeze spray method is absolutely hopeless for CONTACT adhesive - which was a non factory pre mylar solution. I've never seen mylar on an EM. So an EM will always have old contact (unless restorers like Mitch restore and install Mylar), that needs to be removed with the hair dryer method.

[oldskool1969]

The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.

..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint

Freeze spray method is brilliant for factory MYLAR. I've used it plenty of times for DMD titles. Freeze spray method is absolutely hopeless for CONTACT adhesive - which was a non factory pre mylar solution. I've never seen mylar on an EM. So an EM will always have old contact (unless restorers like Mitch restore and install Mylar), that needs to be removed with the hair dryer method.

This is very handy info to know for anyone else who may want to have a crack at protective removal.

[Retropin]

The freeze spray method is a crock of sh*t.. im not sure who started the rumour that it is a good way to remove Mylar but it is responsible for more ruined playfields than any other method... once again - you are gambling that the mylar has less grip than the paint to primer below it. When removing Mylar gambling is a mugs game.

..Not knocking you Oldskool, but i wish you had posted here first and i would have shouted loudly to steer clear of attempting this... we could have saved quite a lot of paint

Freeze spray method is brilliant for factory MYLAR. I've used it plenty of times for DMD titles. Freeze spray method is absolutely hopeless for CONTACT adhesive - which was a non factory pre mylar solution. I've never seen mylar on an EM. So an EM will always have old contact (unless restorers like Mitch restore and install Mylar), that needs to be removed with the hair dryer method.

This is very handy info to know for anyone else who may want to have a crack at protective removal.

I wouldnt go anywhere near this method or the hair dryer for that matter.
Heat softens paint.. use at your peril

[oldskool1969]

Here is an update of where I am at as of 20/3/2013.
Have sanded back all the flipper wear, the  ball chute and ball arch to the best it will get ( for now any way )
Started painting the play field with acrylics and found this to be very relaxing and therapeutic ( fully recommend giving it a go ) PINPRICK gave me the confidence to give it a whirl.
My christmas wish list is a airbrush/spray paint kit as brushing by hand SUCKS 
Although it is not the greatest of finishes I am very happy to this point. I still have the reds to touch up and apply the fine black boarders with an oil based marker pen ( correct me if I am wrong )
Some minor bits have to be attended to so like the rays of white/blue heading to the GOTTLIEB  sign in the front centre.
Then a nice clear coat mmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Also had some FANTASTIC news last night with Lee from Pinball Rescue confirming my NEW plastic set are nearly here 
It is coming together nicely and hope to be finished this year ha ha 

[femto]

That looks good. From the playfield I tried to repair all I can say is don't fret over the little things you cannot fix. Do what you can and when the playfield is back together it will look fine (unless you do something silly). I found when doing mine I fretted over parts of it but eventually got over it and had to get it back together to play it as it took me 12 months overall.

[oldskool1969]

Femto is right, I can't be anal on my first resto so here it is before the final 2 pac or however I choose to finish, It is locked in with a clear matte spray so it should be OK to do whatever I need to do.
There is a lot of lessons learned by doing a complete play field paint like - don't do it again 
Also a picture to remind me of what is what like initially, so I can't sook too much. Heaps of little mistakes but when it is populated it should be fine, me hopes?

[oldskool1969]

Mini update, play field has been clear coated with KBS Diamond Clear, this was a little bit of drama as it gassed up and stuffed the gloss finish. Probably a good thing as I had to rub it back and give it more of an original look MATTE. Also hides a few little hiccups 
NEW plastics arrive thanks to Lee Pinball Rescue  look awesome and extremely professional.
Time to start re-building 

[Retropin]

Mini update, play field has been clear coated with KBS Diamond Clear, this was a little bit of drama as it gassed up and stuffed the gloss finish. Probably a good thing as I had to rub it back and give it more of an original look MATTE. Also hides a few little hiccups 
NEW plastics arrive thanks to Lee Pinball Rescue  look awesome and extremely professional.
Time to start re-building 

KBS gassed up?? Can you explain this a bit.. ive used this product many times and found it to be pretty fautless.

[oldskool1969]

No worries Retro, I had to roll it on with a finishing roller and I think it was going off too quick so it created tiny bubbles that could not escape before curing ( moisture cured ). It was perfect temp for application so can only assume it needed to be thinned out a little bit more rather than straight out of the can.
When the next one comes around I will either spray( when I get a spray kit ) it or thin it out a bit as mentioned above so it also self levels better.
No big deal as that is why I am doing this resto for the learning curve  . Am still really stoked with the results though 

[Retropin]

No worries Retro, I had to roll it on with a finishing roller and I think it was going off too quick so it created tiny bubbles that could not escape before curing ( moisture cured ). It was perfect temp for application so can only assume it needed to be thinned out a little bit more rather than straight out of the can.
When the next one comes around I will either spray( when I get a spray kit ) it or thin it out a bit as mentioned above so it also self levels better.
No big deal as that is why I am doing this resto for the learning curve  . Am still really stoked with the results though 

Aaah.. Yes a roller will trap air into it and if the clear is even slightly too thick the bubbles wont escape.. a quick rub back and another coat should fix it though.

Spray or even paint brush works well with KBS.. have tried both very succesfully