The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: mildflame on April 26, 2011, 04:30:47 PM
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Hi guys.
I have started the thread for my restoration of my flash...
I finished my shed cleanup a week ago
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After I cleaned the floor I needed to do some cementing because when it rained the water came through a crack between the foundation and the tin...
Pinball Area...
I will post the pinball restoration tonight or tomorrow on this same thread...
:lol
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Got a question...
I know that plunger springs have different strength. But what colours are what strength?
thanx Mitch...
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Nice BIG shed !
RED is the strongest, The GREY is the standard and GREEN is the Weakest
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Thanks neno, I can order parts soon now %.%
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Umm, Pics tell story, We started stipping the playfield (my 13 yr old cousin and me)
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Oh, and how do i get off the skitings?
And can I buy the screws (nails) that holds it :lol
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Mitch - are you looking to repaint this machine ?
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Definately. The cabinet is painted black!!
Thats why I need to know how to take the guide things off %$%
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Definately. The cabinet is painted black!!
Thats why I need to know how to take the guide things off %$%
Best way to remove the siderail nails is to drill the heads off, this saves scratching up the rails digging around with a screwdriver.
Once you remove the rails, use a pair of vice grips and twist the nails out like screws.
Greg at Rtbb has the nails and so does Mr Pinball, but I did notice on the Mr pinball nails that I had to cut a bit off the length as they were going to poke through the inside of the cab.
Once you get the screws out fill the holes with dowell and PVA glue.
When you go to put the new nails in you will need to drill a hole for each one as the are not really nails, they are screws and if you try to hammer them in with no hole they will just bend.
Make the hole about the size of the smallest diameter of the thread or a bit smaller and they will hammer in nicely.
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Best not to stand the backglass up on bare concrete, use an old towel or carpet off cut or anything.
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Best not to stand the backglass up on bare concrete, use an old towel or carpet off cut or anything.
It does have a backglass lift. Its not exactly glass direct on cement should I do (put) somthing (somewhere) else?
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I don't take any chances with backglasses, they are way too expensive to replace. Any sudden change in temp can potentially destroy a glass. A metal lift channel is not enough insulation from the concrete.
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side rail removal ;
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=5421.0
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=739.0
RTBB have the correct side rail nails.
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Best not to stand the backglass up on bare concrete, use an old towel or carpet off cut or anything.
It does have a backglass lift. Its not exactly glass direct on cement should I do (put) somthing (somewhere) else?
Wrap it in bubblewrap and put it in a timber box, put it somewhere dry and where it can't fall, it will be a while before you need it anyway.
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A lot of ware on the playfeild,,, Are you going to touch it up or doo a playfeild swap? Keep us posted on youre progres with Flash...
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yes. we r doing a touch up. we got a sticker for the earth bit on the playfield.
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ok, well I finished stripping the playfield as much as i needed and cleaned it with shellite until I ran out ^&^ . so then i decided to use NIFTI. that cleaned it REALLY well.
once i finished that I got some Magic Erasers and used ISOCOL (rubbing/cleaning alcahol) but i quickly ran out AGAIN! ^&^ ^&^ ^&^ So I used NIFTI on the erasers! It worked the same if not better although I nearly soaked the playfield.
once that was finished I used a small amount of Windex to clean off anything left on the pf.
We then turned over the playfield and cleaned the inserts and burns as best as we could with NIFTI.
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And with the side rails off we stated to sand the cabinet to see what would happen and discovered that there was original art underneath! $#$ ^&^ #*# %.% %.% %.%
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we used windex to wipe the dust off the cab and got really amazed :D
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good stuff,mate.you will have to knock out those inserts so you can level the play.dad
$#$ %$%
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good stuff,mate.you will have to knock out those inserts so you can level the play.dad
$#$ %$%
Well i'll need to steel your heat gun <.> :lol
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What should I do with the Apron?...
I have made a sticker I can print out to replace the center bit, Try touch ups or buy A whole Sticker set http://www.pinballrescue.net/Decals_Apron_Williams.html
The gold sticker was a operator sticker but was Gold paint with a clear sticker over the top !@# I wont come off without taking all the other paint off around and under ^&^
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I'd go for the decal Mitch. It is a lot easier just to do the prep work and the decal will finish it off nicely.
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do not order yet.i may need 1 or 2 myself. ^&^
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do not order yet.i may need 1 or 2 myself. ^&^
Ok, I don't like paying postage any way #@# *)* %$%
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I'd go for the decal Mitch. It is a lot easier just to do the prep work and the decal will finish it off nicely.
+1 for the Pinball Rescue decal *%* Just strip the old paint off, prep and repaint it black and apply the new decal set ^^^
I'll be buying one of these myself when i eventually get around to doing my own Flash resto.. it'll happen one of these years :lol
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Yea. I'm think that... clean of old paint and repaint it black ready for sitcker... Would I just use spray paint? Semi-Gloss Black??
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I usually use automotive acrylic gloss black, from Supercheap, Repco or any auto parts shop. For the Pinball rescue decals they recommend a gloss finish in their instructions supplied with the decals.
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I usually use automotive acrylic gloss black, from Supercheap, Repco or any auto parts shop. For the Pinball rescue decals they recommend a gloss finish in their instructions supplied with the decals.
+1 and ensure the primer, topcoat and clear are compatible with each other. ie White Knight, dulux etc etc ..
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I usually use automotive acrylic gloss black, from Supercheap, Repco or any auto parts shop. For the Pinball rescue decals they recommend a gloss finish in their instructions supplied with the decals.
+1 and ensure the primer, topcoat and clear are compatible with each other. ie White Knight, dulux etc etc ..
Good point, AVOID quick dry enamel, this type of spray can paint is not compatible with any other enamel.
If you spray quick dry enamel over other enamel spray can paints it will lift them.
I found this out the hard way, started a job with enamel, ran out of paint and the local hardware store only had quick dry, about 45 seconds after application the whole surface crazed and lifted DOHHH!
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So touch ups on playfield need to be enamel and the same brand as what ever paint on or under?
And the apron is just simple Gloss Black Automotive.
I have nearly worked it out $#$
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So touch ups on playfield need to be enamel and the same brand as what ever paint on or under?
And the apron is just simple Gloss Black Automotive.
I have nearly worked it out $#$
The apron can be enamel of gloss black automotive, the enamel will get a slightly glossier finish.
Have a look at this for you playfield: http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=5421.90
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i don't think you would use enamel on the playfield.hard to remove if you make a mistake.but i could be wrong. @.@
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http://www.craft.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_450&products_id=7573
http://www.craft.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_12&products_id=217
I found these with Studley's help...
can you get colour chart so you buy the right colour *!@
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I am still learning the "art" of playfield restoration and thanks to Gavin and Tim, I'm totally immersed and it has opened many new doors for me. The key to playfield restoration is PRACTICE and using the right paint and equipment for the job.
Tim pointed me to "Jo Sonja" paints. Available at art stores or Bunnings. They are acrylics. I won't use enamels on a playfield as your Dad pointed out - too messy. With acrylics, you simply wipe off with a damp cloth and start again.
As BOOTS kindly pointed out, that restore is "real time" and look when I started it - It has taken me months to learn how to paint properly, and I am still making mistakes.
There's PLENTY of references on this site. Tim's Funhouse, Gavin's Jacks Open and Bank a Ball. The MORE time you spend learning and researching, the less time you spend repeating your mistakes - and you will make mistakes.
Ask questions - I found all the info I needed from the guys here. There's no harm in "having a crack" - you just need the encouragement.
Colors ? I've bought 20 Jo Sonja paints and I experiment. 75 ml paints are $4 at Bunnings.
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those 12 colors in that starter pack should give you a huge range of colors when mixed right.if the bigger tubes are only $4 each thats $48 + flow medium.bunnings seems the go mate,thanks nino $#$
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I saw the starter back and it didn't really have what I needed. I started off with a black & white (250ml) at $8.00 or $9.00 each. I then grabbed whatever color was close to the job I wanted to do. I bought a red, yellow and blue to start me off (75ml). Then each time I needed to paint a color I didn't have, I bought a few tubes from bunnings and started to mix and match. I seriously think you don't need more that 12 colors. But start off with what you need first, so you can work out if you can familiarise yourself with the paint.
The Flow Medium is used to thin the paint for the airbrush. If you are not diving into the airbrush touch ups, then I would not bother with the flow medium. You can water down the paints if you like - they are thick.
If you are applying direct to wood - you need primer. Water based acrylic. Bunnings sells the exact primer. I will post the product details tomorrow. Gavin put me on to this and it works a treat. You need to water the primter down to let it "soak" into the wood for extra "bite" - (Gav's own words).
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do you need to use a filler?or will the primer fill.
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Depends. I bought Tamiya White putty from Hong Kong, but I didn't use it for the Aces High. Cheap, but shipping is a rip off. I used a tiny amount of primer, and built up the area with paint.
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I thought I would need to use PolyFilla just to level the pf paint. If i'm reading this right I can just use primer *!@
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I thought I would need to use PolyFilla just to level the pf paint. If i'm reading this right I can just use primer *!@
Try using "spot" or "knifing" putty, available from any Sprints or Supacheap auto store.
It's basically really thick auto primer (it comes in a tin sort of like car polish comes in) and great for filling small chips and scratches.
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I thought I would need to use PolyFilla just to level the pf paint. If i'm reading this right I can just use primer *!@
We are referring to the playfield ?
Replace chipped or missing paint with paint. If the area is exposed (bare wood) then use primer just to create adhesion for the paint to "grab" on to the playfield. Build up the area with coats of paint. Sand and level.
Maybe post some pictures of the area ?
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a long line on playfield. and big patch in middle (earth) with flipper wear aswell. its only about 1-2mm deep but is bare wood! i have a genuine bally sticker for the earth but it doesn't cover the whole area !!!
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it looks worse than i remember from that angle ^&^
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Well I just had a look at pop bumper caps ^.^
They dont exist
Mitch,
Unfortunately we are unable to get these pop bumper caps at this time. We do not have a licensed vendor at this time to supply us with this part. I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused you. If you have anymore questions please let me know!
Thanks!
Jessica Wallace
Marco Specialties Customer Support
1-803-957-5500
sales@marcospec.com
On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 4:54 AM, Mitchell Elson <mitchellelson@hotmail.com> wrote:
Hi,
I need 6 Flash Pop bumper caps and see that you have been out of stock for a while Item #03-7444-486
Will you get any in stock anytime soon?
Is there a reason why they are out of stock?
Is this only a temporary thing or will it take a while for them to arrive?
Thanx Mitch
That was the email.
It says it all...
Lucklly I found these: http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CP-03-7444-WHT&Category_Code=CP&Product_Count=120
I am going to try and scan the old cap in and photoshop it to make a sticker with correct colour, font, size (it should look like a new one once in machine)
Lets go for a walk to the shed @.@
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try PBR for the plain ones,should be cheaper if they do them.plus delivery would be cheaper.
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don't bother mate,they only have a suitable teal blue transparent,which you can get in oz
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I need to make an order from BAA anyway for the targets
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Halfway, Its alot harder than all other stickers I have done. Inc Wild fyre (Not including wood grain confusing bit)
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Pop bumper sticker done &&
Before and After (Correct measurements ready to print onto Glossy White Adheasive paper)
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Oops I didn't attach.
I must be worn out! %.% %.%
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well done mate $#$ ^^^
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animated actual size... It will look better with NEW WHITE caps. They were the cracked yellowed old caps i put the stickers on... (the pic is animated not a photo *%* %.% )
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put me down for 6 && ^^^
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you want six and i want 3????????
i was going to print 6. 3 for u and 3 for me. oh i will be using your printer and paper you bought me *)* because i do the stickers and cosmetics. the adheasive paper becomes min && !^! !^! !^! my paper MINE! !^! !^! !^!
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Good work there Mitch. Some handy photoshop skills. *%*
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Wonder how much it would cost to get an engineering machine shop to make a reverse stamp from steel for these?
Some CAD/CAM software programs allow you to make a raised shape out of a jpg image.
If you could make the model it wouldn't take long to machine.
Yo would then be able to get the Hot Stamp look on the caps.
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Wonder how much it would cost to get an engineering machine shop to make a reverse stamp from steel for these?
Some CAD/CAM software programs allow you to make a raised shape out of a jpg image.
If you could make the model it wouldn't take long to machine.
Yo would then be able to get the Hot Stamp look on the caps.
Yes boots. I do have the knowledge to do it it would only take... 20 mins from the original sticker I have done from photoshop.
but how could i press it in to the popbumper cap and paint it?
And where/how would I get the stamp/mould-thing made??
I'm sure I can find the correct CAD program &&
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Yes boots. I do have the knowledge to do it it would only take... 20 mins from the original sticker I have done from photoshop.
but how could i press it in to the popbumper cap and paint it?
And where/how would I get the stamp/mould-thing made??
I'm sure I can find the correct CAD program &&
Any small jobbing shop with a CNC milling machine would be able to cut a steel stamp for you.
Probably get it cheap if you mention its for your pinball machine just ive them plenty of time to do it and they would just squeeze it in when they get time.
Provide a piece of steel for them with the cad model and it wouldn't take them very long.
To stamp it in the caps, you would just heat up the stamp and press it into the cap and then paint in the grooves.
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Here's some original caps.
http://cgi.ebay.com/7-Williams-Flash-Pop-Bumper-Caps-Used-/280651070267?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41581b7b3b
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Any small jobbing shop with a CNC milling machine would be able to cut a steel stamp for you.
Probably get it cheap if you mention its for your pinball machine just ive them plenty of time to do it and they would just squeeze it in when they get time.
Provide a piece of steel for them with the cad model and it wouldn't take them very long.
To stamp it in the caps, you would just heat up the stamp and press it into the cap and then paint in the grooves.
I'd prefer aluminium, it's so much faster to work with CNC. And doesn't take so much energy to heat up, if planning on heatstamp those logos.
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Wonder how much it would cost to get an engineering machine shop to make a reverse stamp from steel for these?
Some CAD/CAM software programs allow you to make a raised shape out of a jpg image.
If you could make the model it wouldn't take long to machine.
Yo would then be able to get the Hot Stamp look on the caps.
Any small jobbing shop with a CNC milling machine would be able to cut a steel stamp for you.
Probably get it cheap if you mention its for your pinball machine just ive them plenty of time to do it and they would just squeeze it in when they get time.
Provide a piece of steel for them with the cad model and it wouldn't take them very long.
To stamp it in the caps, you would just heat up the stamp and press it into the cap and then paint in the grooves.
I'd prefer aluminium, it's so much faster to work with CNC. And doesn't take so much energy to heat up, if planning on heatstamp those logos.
I dont think Ill bother. I'll just do my stickers on plain white caps
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Hey Mitch great work with the sticker art. Ive made some stickers and printed them onto the clear sticker paper which keeps the pop bumper color uniform just some food for thought ^^^
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How about using a water slide decal?
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How about using a water slide decal?
Can add up to be expensive. I'm not sure how far to go. I could clear coat a plain glossy sticker on so it doesn't move or come off. Not sure how far to go *!@
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Just to check...
Cabinet paint... that would be a semigloss? I was going to use spray cans.
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Just to check...
Cabinet paint... that would be a semigloss? I was going to use spray cans.
Semi gloss or satin finish. White Knight make a really nice Satin Black that I used to touch up a Jurassic Park.
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Got bored today and decided to go out to the shed and work on Flash...
the first thing I did was I fixed nails into holes under the cabinet that looked like they previously had nails in (there were a few still in some of the holes but not all) so i put nails in all the holes and the bowed/loose board at the base of the cabinet is now steardy (i'm not an excelent speller)
once I did that I didn't know what to do next *!@
Yep you saw it. I know its not part of restoring the pin but... I wanted to test the speaker #*# #*# #*#
and then I removed the door to get ready for cleaning up, or painting the cab.
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hi mate,you could incorperate an i pod jack in say under cab for an unique feature. *.* <..>
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hi mate,you could incorperate an i pod jack in say under cab for an unique feature. *.* <..>
hahaha *.*
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hi mate,you could incorperate an i pod jack in say under cab for an unique feature. *.* <..>
Not such a silly idea (sort of)
It would probably be quite easy to set something up where you could add custom sounds for certain events in the game.
Of course you wouldn't use an ipod (too expensive) but a cheap mp3 player or an IC with separate amp and its own speaker would do the trick.
I have thought about this for my Buck Rogers to add the Tweaky "bida bida" sound.
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I decided to test a rust treatment chemical i havent used before. I only bought it yesterday.
I left the metal plates from the front of the cabinet (one was a shooter rod assembly part, the other was from the door) the worst i could find.
I cleaned them, allowed to dry. Put them in small ice-cream container with a small amout of the rust remover... left for 30 mins, took out and wiped dry. left for 10 mins then used some windex and lightly sanded off any dead rust. They then went in for another 30 mins.
on the bottle it says to clean and dry thoroughly, dip it in and leave it for 2 hours and then let it rest for 24 hours (i think... its hard to understand)
It could come up better $#$
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Interesting. Ranex has some competition ?
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Had i drizzle of constant rain for the last 24 hours and my soil is clay! so any water doesn't sink away.
my shed still flooded but no where as bad as before I cemented it.
and then I started to sand the cabinet. once I got the legs off !@#
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holly macaroni,you are really going to town on this one!!did mum get the paint?
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yep, 3 cans of White Knight Satin Black
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nice."squirts" thats what i got today after fish and chips,lol %.% %.% %.%
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potato fritters?
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I will get the other colours in the same brand but later when I need them. (white and red)
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That's the exact paint I used on a DE Jurassic Part. Great to work with.
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Looks like one of those pics security cam takes before you find a new mural on your wall in the morning!
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On the previous post I said the rain was stating to come into my shed and well now it HAS!! ^.^
the backbox has got 10cm of water damage (i think) on the back and about 1cm on the sides.
I said alot more my my internet explorer stopped responding and now I need to type it up again. I AM NOT HAVING A GOOD DAY! I am quite lucky that the playfield didn't get wet and that I took precautions with the backglass ^.^
I stated this post with me fixing the shed and well The job didn't quite work. I didn't do the extended part of the shed so that leaked terribly!
so the water came from the back of the shed and made its way to the front.
That shows how crap my soil is!
I believe I can sand back the old paint on the backbox like I am with the cab and spray it with spray putty? as long as it doesn't get wet again and I don't leave it too long? am I in trouble?
I am really upset! there shouldn't be anymore rain so it should allow my shed to dry up but what do I do to fix the backbox now!?
the backbox was the best part of the machine at the start now I'm not so sure...
dad... I hope this is a lesson for both of us... DONT PUT A MACHINE IN A ROOM/SHED THAT HASN"T STAYED DRY FOR A YEAR BEFORE!!!!!! !!! !!! !!!
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forgot pics
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Best thin is to go to Bunnings and buy some sets of trestles, I think you can get four for about $30
Keep everything off the floor.
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Best thin is to go to Bunnings and buy some sets of trestles, I think you can get four for about $30
Keep everything off the floor.
+1
Nature has her way of spoiling our fun. Don't stress, Mitch - just wait for it to dry and evaluate it then.
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Oh, my thread almost left page 1... Time to post somthing!
Well the shed has mostly dried and my cabinet is just about sanded back,
I went shopping today and yesterday to find some stuff, I got more sand paper, some pf paint (not needed yet!) and some timber putty for scratches ect.
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started pulling the backbox apart
and cleaning it
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I evaluated the water damage on the backbox and its nothing to worry about! #*# #*# #*#
The back of it expanded but it is all still solid!
a small sanding won't hurt it!
I gave it a small sand so you could see where the damage was (the bit without paint of course)
and then I heard there was a storm coming! time to save the pinball... I think I over-reacted but it will save the pin from getting wet @@*
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...and then I heard there was a storm coming! time to save the pinball... I think I over-reacted but it will save the pin from getting wet @@*
I knew that wood hanging on the shed wall would become handy! :lol
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lol %.% %.% %.%
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Great work Mitch - Glad to see you are doing so well, and having so much fun !
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FINISHED SANDING!!!!!!
Doesn't look done in these pics but it is *%*
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Started sweeping the shed and puttying the cab yesterday
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The putty doesn't stick too well to the rough parts! it sticks better to the smooth for some weird reason!! !@#
It also needs to be put on in layers on parts that need rebuilding, see corner in photos above and below.
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and now i'm experimenting with the hole in the bottom of the cab...
DRY! !!!
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anyway, had my cousin over today and he wanted to help so we started painting today!
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today i did 3 coats and used 2 and a half cans ^&^
looks better tahn pics, pics taken when wet.
take more photos tomorow...
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Highly recommend you use some undercoat.
When you use undercoat it seals the timber and you will use less topcoat, you will also get a more uniform finish.
If you use water based "Solver Maxi PSU" used a 100mm foam roller, and sand between coats, 2-3 coats should do it.
The good thing about this undercoat is, its water based and you can just wrap your roller up in a wet rag overnight while your waiting for the coat to dry, also its easy to cleanup.
1 litre of undercoat will easily do a whole machine, with some left over.
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Yes... Definately should have used undercoat...
HINT: Use 1L of undercoat on your pinball cabinet before attemping to spray, If you don't you will use more paint and will see the wood grain in the paint &^&
Yea woodgrain... pics arnt too great... dont have a camera... all photos taken by phone &^&
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Solver Maxi PSU is really good stuff, it sticks to pretty well anything.
Obviously being water based, you can't use it on bare metal.
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bit late now for the undercoat. ^&^ guess you'll need more paint then.looking good though. @@*
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Ok, bought a bit more stuff:
White Knight; Satin Black x1, Satin White x2, Cherry red x1 (gloss)
Sifa Steel Wool; 00 (fine) and 0000 (superfine)
Norton Masking tape
Th Bunnings I go to is hopeless!
I wanted 3 Black and they only had 1! in the whole shop!
I only got one red to test the colour...
I will need to go down again and get:
2x satin black
1x cherry red
small roll of Tracing Paper!
Pics of products:
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Well i have been a bit lazy lately, who would want to go out into the 8* cold and work on a pinnie? ... ... ... Well I WOULD NOT!
so anyway today I finally got motivated and went and lighty sanded the cab, my goal was to make it look one flat bare black colour, i'd wipe the dust off and then give it a spray.
I'm not gonna post pics until I decide that i'm happy with it &&
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is gav doing the stencils for you? !@#
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I have asked and sent photos of original art, from your machine. And i'm currently waiting for a response...
Gavin tends to get lost in his E-mails
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Pm sent
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Looking good :)
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Enjoying this thread Mitch .... watching with interest while I try to locate a reasonable project Flash to try a first restore on.
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Enjoying this thread Mitch .... watching with interest while I try to locate a reasonable project Flash to try a first restore on.
Good luck, there was a few Flash machines around a while ago (my dad has another 2!) I have found them as a good first restore as long as you know or are good yourself at board-work, The main boards in the Backbox are conected with a really dodgy connector, it becomes dirty and gets bad contact after ~10 years. another thing you want to look out for is playfield wear... thats where the paint has come off from the ball rolling around after years of being played in a pizza bar; ect. unless you are good with an airbrush then try getting one with no or little playfield wear... ps. you can buy genuine stickers for certain areas of that machine.
I hope you learn as much as I will from my mistakes and find what your looking for,
Good Luck finding a machine! ^^^
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if you were in sa i may have been able to help out with a flash.you should find one under a grand,as there were over 10,000 made.good luck with your search spooks,damien mitch's dad. $!&
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Just finished painting it black... now waiting for stencils #@#
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Stencils on their way! not long now... well... for the cabinet! :lol
I also have a decal for the Apron on the way #@#
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APRON DECAL came today,
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011001.jpg)
So I decided to clean up the apron,
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011002.jpg)
Using shellite I managed to get the gold sticker paint that i originaly failed to get off with alcahol and whatever other glue removers i used
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011003.jpg)
came of nice and easy!
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011004.jpg)
i then cleaned the rest of the apron with windex and shellite, then used my rust remover to clean off the dead rust and oils at the rusty areas
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011010.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011011.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011012.jpg)
the results were amazing, all i did was rub it over like i was cleaning it and it removed small amounts of rust!
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011013.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011014.jpg)
lastly i gave it more cleaning and a small rub on the ruff areas with windex and 400grit wet and dry sandpaper making it nice and smooth,
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/26092011016.jpg)
now i have just spread the Dulux rust remover over the apron as it says on the bottle to remove and seal the rust spots, it says that may take a few repeats so that most likely will take a while
Atleast its getting done! %.% *%*
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does anyone know what the little bump at the middle bottom of the apron is for and has anyone ever tryed removing it?
i am worried about it getting in the way when i apply the decal!
the decal has a small hole there but not big enough to go over the whole knob ^&^
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Doing a great Job Mitch
That's knob should be made of rubber and if you gently poke the rubber through from underneath it will come out but be gentle as they can be brittl
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Hey Mitch, following the resto with great interest as i am trying a first job in similar condition. Keep me posted on the apron decal and how difficult it was to fit. Cheers Mark
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If you apply the decal with wet method, it is foolproof.
Its the same as applying vinyl signs and pretty much guarantees a bubble free finish that is perfectly in place.
Use a garden spray with water and approx 2 drops washing up liquid in it.. give a good shake.
spray the apron and peel the decal. apply decal to wet apron.. it will slide over the suface allowing you to position correctly.
once in position, hold the centre down and from the midle of the decal out push the water out from underneath using a firm cloth etc.. actually driving licences are great fro this if you dont have a vinyl squeedgy.
Then push water out from other side.
Put aside to dry.. can place in sunlight for this.. every now and again running your fingers over the edge to ensure good adhesion here.
Surface MUST be grease free... no fingers!
IF you do get a bubble then prick with a sharp scapel and push air and water out.. you wont see the hole so long as its a prick not a slice.
If the decal has a problem settling into the crevices where the instruction cards sit.. wave a hairdrier over it very lightly.. this will soften the decal and allow you to laminate it into place... you can push it down with your finger... its how we apply to crevices when wrapping a car.
If you do it dry.. you WILL get bubbles/ creases and very likely off centre.
If you know all above already, then i apologise for teaching the sucking of eggs!
-
If you apply the decal with wet method, it is foolproof.
Its the same as applying vinyl signs and pretty much guarantees a bubble free finish that is perfectly in place.
Use a garden spray with water and approx 2 drops washing up liquid in it.. give a good shake.
spray the apron and peel the decal. apply decal to wet apron.. it will slide over the suface allowing you to position correctly.
once in position, hold the centre down and from the midle of the decal out push the water out from underneath using a firm cloth etc.. actually driving licences are great fro this if you dont have a vinyl squeedgy.
Then push water out from other side.
Put aside to dry.. can place in sunlight for this.. every now and again running your fingers over the edge to ensure good adhesion here.
Surface MUST be grease free... no fingers!
IF you do get a bubble then prick with a sharp scapel and push air and water out.. you wont see the hole so long as its a prick not a slice.
If the decal has a problem settling into the crevices where the instruction cards sit.. wave a hairdrier over it very lightly.. this will soften the decal and allow you to laminate it into place... you can push it down with your finger... its how we apply to crevices when wrapping a car.
If you do it dry.. you WILL get bubbles/ creases and very likely off centre.
If you know all above already, then i apologise for teaching the sucking of eggs!
Wow, thanks gavin!
i didn't realise all the possiblitys and problems that could happen, i thought it would be easy to just put down the decal evenly, i think i'll do the water and deturgent idea when it happens and hopefully i dont stuff it up and need another one! !@#
-
If you apply the decal with wet method, it is foolproof.
Its the same as applying vinyl signs and pretty much guarantees a bubble free finish that is perfectly in place.
Use a garden spray with water and approx 2 drops washing up liquid in it.. give a good shake.
spray the apron and peel the decal. apply decal to wet apron.. it will slide over the suface allowing you to position correctly.
once in position, hold the centre down and from the midle of the decal out push the water out from underneath using a firm cloth etc.. actually driving licences are great fro this if you dont have a vinyl squeedgy.
Then push water out from other side.
Put aside to dry.. can place in sunlight for this.. every now and again running your fingers over the edge to ensure good adhesion here.
Surface MUST be grease free... no fingers!
IF you do get a bubble then prick with a sharp scapel and push air and water out.. you wont see the hole so long as its a prick not a slice.
If the decal has a problem settling into the crevices where the instruction cards sit.. wave a hairdrier over it very lightly.. this will soften the decal and allow you to laminate it into place... you can push it down with your finger... its how we apply to crevices when wrapping a car.
If you do it dry.. you WILL get bubbles/ creases and very likely off centre.
If you know all above already, then i apologise for teaching the sucking of eggs!
Wow, thanks gavin!
i didn't realise all the possiblitys and problems that could happen, i thought it would be easy to just put down the decal evenly, i think i'll do the water and deturgent idea when it happens and hopefully i dont stuff it up and need another one! !@#
You should'nt have any problems applying the decal following Gavin's tips. Only thing i could possibly add is to make sure you dont get any specks of dust etc on the apron as the decal is being applied. probably not a major issue with this decal as its black, and not clear, had that happen to me once with a Gottlieb apron decal (speck of dust under a CLEAR part) ^&^ lucky for me though it was near an edge and i was able to remove it.
Sorry if i missed it elsewhere in the thread but are you repainting the apron before applying the decal?
-
If you apply the decal with wet method, it is foolproof.
Its the same as applying vinyl signs and pretty much guarantees a bubble free finish that is perfectly in place.
Use a garden spray with water and approx 2 drops washing up liquid in it.. give a good shake.
spray the apron and peel the decal. apply decal to wet apron.. it will slide over the suface allowing you to position correctly.
once in position, hold the centre down and from the midle of the decal out push the water out from underneath using a firm cloth etc.. actually driving licences are great fro this if you dont have a vinyl squeedgy.
Then push water out from other side.
Put aside to dry.. can place in sunlight for this.. every now and again running your fingers over the edge to ensure good adhesion here.
Surface MUST be grease free... no fingers!
IF you do get a bubble then prick with a sharp scapel and push air and water out.. you wont see the hole so long as its a prick not a slice.
If the decal has a problem settling into the crevices where the instruction cards sit.. wave a hairdrier over it very lightly.. this will soften the decal and allow you to laminate it into place... you can push it down with your finger... its how we apply to crevices when wrapping a car.
If you do it dry.. you WILL get bubbles/ creases and very likely off centre.
If you know all above already, then i apologise for teaching the sucking of eggs!
Wow, thanks gavin!
i didn't realise all the possiblitys and problems that could happen, i thought it would be easy to just put down the decal evenly, i think i'll do the water and deturgent idea when it happens and hopefully i dont stuff it up and need another one! !@#
You should'nt have any problems applying the decal following Gavin's tips. Only thing i could possibly add is to make sure you dont get any specks of dust etc on the apron as the decal is being applied. probably not a major issue with this decal as its black, and not clear, had that happen to me once with a Gottlieb apron decal (speck of dust under a CLEAR part) ^&^ lucky for me though it was near an edge and i was able to remove it.
Sorry if i missed it elsewhere in the thread but are you repainting the apron before applying the decal?
no you havn't missed anything! i'm going to spray the Apron with the left over Satin Black that i didn't quite use up for the cabinet...
i'm not going to finish the apron anytime too soon because i havn't started the playfield and if i finish the Apron now it will proberly get damaged before i finsh the machine! i need to do the Playfield stickers and touch ups with dads airbrush on the playfield before i get too caried away with the Apron. I only really decided to look at the apron because i havn't got my cabinet stencils yet... they should be here this week!
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I have almost fallen in love with this White Knight Satin Black,
For the last 2 or 3 days I have been coating the Apron with the dulux rest prep stuff because the bottle says it has a 7 year rust free garentee so i thought id treat it as if the apron was bare metal for the garden, anyway i did 2 or 3 coats and decided it was good enough because it shouldn't rust anymore anytime soon!
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/01102011.jpg)
Now I have finished painting the Apron and it looks like new!
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/01102011004.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/01102011005.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/01102011006.jpg)
I still havn't recieved cabinet stencils... SLOW POST ^.^
But i have posted pics so I can show off the Satin Finish!
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/01102011003.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/01102011002.jpg)
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looking good mate ^^^ ^^^ ^^^
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oops,looks like you need new socks.lol %.% %.% %.%
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haha, woops. i took too many photos of my feet today!
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Looking good Mitch bet your excited about getting that cabinet stencils done.
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it would be nice if those stencils turn up during the school holidays *%*
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I'm hoping they'll turn up monday, they should have turned up this week but didn't. I ordered the stencils and Apron decal from the same place but 2 or 3 days apart due to paypal issues, i got Apron decal last monday and expected to get stencils thursday... maybe monday !@#
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I'm hoping they'll turn up monday, they should have turned up this week but didn't. I ordered the stencils and Apron decal from the same place but 2 or 3 days apart due to paypal issues, i got Apron decal last monday and expected to get stencils thursday... maybe monday !@#
I forgot monday is a public Holiday :lol
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Anyway, I didn't get a decal for the Shooter rod Apron, so I realised i have got the correct colour paint aleady bought ready for the cab, i can easily make some stencils for it or decal, i have done both sets of artwork... attached below &&
but should i paint it so its original or decal it the same as the Apron???
So, heres a VOTE!
VOTE A for PAINT
VOTE B for DECAL
VOTE AWAY!!!!!!! :lol
(pic 1=decal, pic 2= black part = cutouts for white paint, pic 3=Black part= cutouts for red paint)
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^^^
-
^^^
whats your vote?
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do both,i have some you can practice on
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I have all my stencils! now i gotta find a nice long day to start painting ^&^
lets hope i don't stuff up too badly!
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Just thought i'd post a pic of the Shooter rod Apron decals i made
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Looking good, now get that spray can out :)
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you mean stencils ^^^
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you mean stencils ^^^
haha, yea. its soo confusing
Anyway I got the spraycan out today and i am currently painting white onto the backbox left and right, at 3 coats... proberly do another 2 or 3, post pics later tonight!
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This morning:
I thought it might be a good idea to take off all the old maskings (for the base colour black) because they were coming off and were on for quite some time...
So I took them off
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011001.jpg)
And put on new ones after remembering how bad i was at sticking newspaper over a hole!
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011002.jpg)
and then clamed down and worked out how i was going to use the cabinet stencils
I applyed the white stencils to both sides of the Backbox
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011004.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011006.jpg)
Mid-day:
I did 5 coats in total: starting with really light coat and making each following coat slightly thicker than the last
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011008.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011011.jpg)
Tonight:
There is nothing better than peeling off a stencil and revealing nice new fresh artwork! $#$ *%*
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011009.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/13102011012.jpg)
Very small overspray occured but easy to patch up!
notice all the airbubbles in the left side... i did that one first! :lol
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Looks like you're off to a good start with the stencils ^^^ ^^^
Although i cant really spot it in the pics, any slight overspray can usually be taken off with a little bit of Novus2 on a cloth, i used it on my KISS cab and on the Stern Galaxy cab i painted, worked a treat *%*
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Looks like you're off to a good start with the stencils ^^^ ^^^
Although i cant really spot it in the pics, any slight overspray can usually be taken off with a little bit of Novus2 on a cloth, i used it on my KISS cab and on the Stern Galaxy cab i painted, worked a treat *%*
Thanks mate!,
I masked up the bits i wanted to keep, in the overspray areas and cleaned the overspray with Shellite (I dont have any Novus)
Worked brilliant with a chux! ^^^
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Looking Good Mitch ^^^
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Looking good so far Mitch ^^^
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You need a drumroll and a TAH-DAH!!!
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well done mate,keep up the good work #*#.are the stencils re-useable? #@#
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well done mate,keep up the good work #*#.are the stencils re-useable? #@#
haha, not really most broke so i threw them out, but i'am happy with the result,
i finished all white yester day havn't taken any photos yet. going to finish the backbox today with the red.
one question... or two
I have legs and lockdown bar that are speckled with rust and need polishing. i thought i could remove/kill the rust but it wouldn't polish up too good, I also want to polish the front door panel and side rails, What is the best way to get them shiny?
I bought steel wool to buff it up but it dont really work
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Heres the finished "white only"
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/15102011001.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/15102011002.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/15102011.jpg)
and the current red %$%
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/15102011003.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/15102011004.jpg)
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that looks fantastic mate,i hope you can finish it today $#$.back to school tommorow %.% *%*
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one question... or two
I have legs and lockdown bar that are speckled with rust and need polishing. i thought i could remove/kill the rust but it wouldn't polish up too good, I also want to polish the front door panel and side rails, I bought steel wool to buff it up but it dont really work
What is the best way to get them shiny?
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was that last q'n dirrected at me?you are the rust remover man.lol.i would try to remove the surface rust first,then polish,regrain with wet and dry with some windex etc.probally 400 gritt.
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was that last q'n dirrected at me?you are the rust remover man.lol.i would try to remove the surface rust first,then polish,regrain with wet and dry with some windex etc.probally 400 gritt.
haha, no it wasn't... i'm not too sure you have ever tryed that... i kno i have and its a slow exhausting procedure. i was just wondering if anyone else on here "like Neno" knew an easier more affective way that they would like to share??? :lol
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I made a big mistake when buying the red paint...
I bought: White Knight "Squirts" Cherry Red Gloss
At the time i didn't think about the paint running and leaving drip marks ect.
I had to spray 6-7 coats of this stuff to get a fluent smooth finish, when i removed the stencil it ripped a bit of the curved edges because of the seal/glue effect between the stencil and Backbox, it looks ok but i'm not too sure i want to take the risk on the main cab though! Maybe i'll look for a semi-gloss before attempting the cab
I have to admit the stencils I have are brilliant! they didn't bleed apart from where the small gaps were due to applying it badly
Pics of finished paint-job on backbox:
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Looking good! When you are finished I think you will be very happy with the result.
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Looking good Mitch.
To remove rust from the legs - covered in detail here
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=110.0
Siderails & Lock Down bar - 360 Grit wet / Dry with Windex
Door - 400 Grit wet / dry with windex
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Just bought another can of red, hoping to get the whole cabinet finished before monday... if i do I will be Amazed! can't wait to see the final product, its not even half done and looks a lot better than what i started with! $#$
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Okay, this is a confusing question... anyone can answer if you have done it before.
I attempted my pinball legs today and tryed the wet/dry and windex, it works a treat getting of surface-surface rust but it leaves black spots, i tryed rubbing even more but the more i rub the more black spots i get. I than noticed that if i very lightly and carefully rub the legs it takes of the rust and dosn't quite get rid of the bumps and no black spots appear. i have a small idea what the black spots might be but i don't know how to get rid of them!
I have always had this problem with rust somtimes not as bad tho
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Cab paint finished,
Side rails on
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Nice job on the stencilling, well done @@* @@*
Overall its coming up nicely ^^^
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Well done Mitch. As the youngest restorer on AP, I think you are doing a MARVELOUS job. I just hope other youngsters step away from their PSP3s and start getting into pinball !
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Very nice work so far Mitch ^^^
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all i can say is WOW,great job mate. ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ #*# $#$
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Polished legs last weekend, windex and 280g wet&dry, two legs came up good... the other two not soo much but better than what i started with. so i have picked out the back legs already
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make sure you buy some leg(cabinet) protectors.ps i need a set if my decals ever turn up.,dad
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Thats all for the cabinet at the moment...
TIME FOR PLAYFIELD RESTORATION! :lol
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0568.jpg)
Today i spent 3 hours masking the bad black parts of my playfield,
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0576.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0571.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0572.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0573.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0574.jpg)
it only took me 10 mins to spray with the airbrush though
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0576.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0577.jpg)
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0578.jpg)
Before:
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0568.jpg)
After:
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0576.jpg)
Before:
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0574.jpg)
After:
(http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff421/mildflame/Forum%20pics/IMG_0577.jpg)
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Good work! Takes a long time to mask off eh?
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Keep going Mitch ^^^
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Poor quality image, but this shows you what i've been doing lately
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some lightning effects (orange)
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One hint I will give is to use as much clear as you can to seal it. because when you take off the mask it pulls up both the old/new paint.
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Man!!!! your doing well considering that it was down to wood. ^^^
Did you check out that link on AA with the circular decal for the playfield?
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Nice work ^^^ another classic pinball saved @@* love my Flash to !!
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Man!!!! your doing well considering that it was down to wood. ^^^
Did you check out that link on AA with the circular decal for the playfield?
No I didn't. My dad bought a kit when I geot the machine. It has the cirucular sticker as well as the drop targets and I think a few Others. The machine has a way to go yet before I'll be happy!
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your attempting something i wouldnt, and you are doing a good job. ^^^
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your attempting something i wouldnt, and you are doing a good job. ^^^
Well the way I see it is I can't make it any worse so. Why not
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your attempting something i wouldnt, and you are doing a good job. ^^^
Well the way I see it is I can't make it any worse so. Why not
well that is true it was pretty bad, certainly jumped in the deep end, but it looks like you are swimming, you will be a pro by the end of it
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Keep at it, Mitch - this is the best way to learn. Well done mate ^^^
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Great work! looks magnificent, well done!!
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next job will be to restore those pcb's.i will teach you,i hope.the sound board is all ready done.hope its just a matter of replacing the interconecter.the desolder station will get a work out.
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yup do i'll bring them boards over friday. they look pretty bad @@^
lets hope they work better than it looks :lol
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we will get them going !@# :D one way or another
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My weekends work...
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well here is just a reminder of what it looked like before
(http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6396.0;attach=25012;image)
(http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6396.0;attach=25014;image)
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another
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well done mate,you will have to teach me how to use the expensive air brush $#$
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Nice work ^^^
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havn't been doing much lately but I have now got all the parts I need to finish Flash coming from the best parts supplier in Australia.
A big thanks to Greg at RTBB for helping me out ^^^
I can update you guys with my progress soon #*#
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Your patience and persistence are highly commendable , got any to spare ? ^^^
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sound board done,power supply board done,driver board done.
mpu is giving us grief,replaced headers,cpu,pia,2 transistors,electrolytic cap,ne556,roms and sockets.still locked up.will try the 2 6810 rams tomorrow and maybee the cmos ram.if that dosent work,mate,ist off to ken. ^&^
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all fixed $#$
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all fixed $#$
@@*
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Got My order from greg (rtbb) today, came in 2 Large boxes! #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*# #*#
I was SOOO excited to open them.... I have attached photos to show off my order :lol
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Always nice to get a parcel from Greg. ^^^
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Notice the world cup soccer parts...
(little clean-up machine for me when i've had enough of flash)
(May post a clean up thread)
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Always nice to get a parcel from Greg. ^^^
+1 ^^^
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Inserts are cleaned up and back in Playfield!
Water with a drop of detergent cleaned the inserts well with wet/dry 400 to get rid of the ageing and to flatten them also
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Clearcoated... soon to buff and pics to come
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this is what its like at the moment...
not buffed yet...
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oh and the clear was a tad wet still in some areas so it can only look better when it is completely done $#$
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Looking good Mitch bet your getting excited now
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Looks great . Nice job so far
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lookin good ^^^
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WOW..!!
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those school holidays are coming around again.hope you can finish off FLASH. ^^^
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those school holidays are coming around again.hope you can finish off FLASH. ^^^
Yea, me too.... Warmer weather would be nice.
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I have been doing some work but been too lazy to post. Done a complete flipper rebuild, reassembled underside and topside of playfield. Started rebuilding cabinet.
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Looking food Mitch nearly ready for a game.
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On page 4 you saw the pop bumper cap stickers I designed, Today I printed them and put them on plain caps.
I put them on and then used a scalpel to go around the circle and cut them to the exact shape.
I have now sealed them with Krylon Triple Thick to protect the paper.
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Great work Mitch, those caps look terrific and it looks like the rest of the game is coming back together very nicely.
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Great work Mitch, those caps look terrific and it looks like the rest of the game is coming back together very nicely.
+1
How is the clearcoat holding up - Looks pretty good from the recent shots.
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Great work Mitch, those caps look terrific and it looks like the rest of the game is coming back together very nicely.
+1
How is the clearcoat holding up - Looks pretty good from the recent shots.
It's doing good. Haven't had any cracking, clouding or yellowing. I still surprise myself sometimes regarding the shine on it :P
I'm really pleased with what I've done over the past 2 years. I'd like to get it finished by Christmas. Its been a long journey!
Once I get it all back together and working I'll probably do smaller areas like I have on previous machines; full door restore, legs, overall cleanup and buff, etc.
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I think you have handled the demanding part - the playfield. The rest would be easy for you. Keep the updates coming - FLASH is getting a lot of love right now !
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mitchell tells me the boards woun't boot up.they have been sitting out in his damp shed for over 12 months.Any suggestions would be appreciated.me thinking moisture got into the connectors or sockets.I had them running my flash before he took them home.
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mitchell tells me the boards woun't boot up.they have been sitting out in his damp shed for over 12 months.Any suggestions would be appreciated.me thinking moisture got into the connectors or sockets.I had them running my flash before he took them home.
What do they do, anything?
Start from the beginning, mains connection, power supply.....
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all i can remember was that all boards were working before he took them home.plus they were fully overhaulled.I am not suppose to be helping him on this one.Lets see if he can figure it out,i have given him some clues.
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I'm sure I'll work it out eventually %$%
Once it's 100% back together I'll get the manual out and have a look over it and check all connectors again for burns/dirt ect.
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to make it good for another 30 years you could re-pin all the connectors.fun,fun and more fun.
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at least you now have a new you-bute FLUKE multimeter to test voltages etc.
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mitchell tells me the boards woun't boot up.they have been sitting out in his damp shed for over 12 months.Any suggestions would be appreciated.me thinking moisture got into the connectors or sockets.I had them running my flash before he took them home.
What do they do, anything?
Start from the beginning, mains connection, power supply.....
+1
Check Fuses etc. Could be something simple. The interconnectors would be the first place I'd look after the fuses.
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Progress:
Lock down bar assembly done. Door done. Pop bumper caps installed.
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Looking good Mitch - did you get the game going ?
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Not just yet. Been lazy.
I know its probably a voltage problem but still have some checking to do.