~You only need to protect the work youve done with a thin layer - after that a good waxing and good balls wil keep it nice and pristine - also original looking. You sure you need to cover the whole PF??
With restoration - whispers are the go... do as little as possible. Of course if youve done a whole PF repaint then cover the whole PF, but if its a touch up then a full PF coating is a bit excessive IMO.
Im not a big fan of CC either and ill only do it if customer insists - even then ill offer alternatives or if ive repainted that much that a full CC is the only option.
Spurr is right - linseed based finishes do yellow over time, but unless youve removed the finish thats already there, then it will continue to yellow under your new mylar.
What you do to your machine is your choice... but remember the choices you make today may well be the ones you regret tomorrow.
There are many options to choose from.
Mylar can be removed - so can acrylic CC
I used 2 pac poly around the kickouts because it allowed me protect right down inside the PF at the bare wood also - this is where the ball hits time and time again and often this timber is eroding.
It also matches perfectly the original factory finish - semi gloss is the go.
For touch ups i use nothing but the poly through an air brush.
Im also a firm believer in keeping things as original as poss and if a PF is pre Mylar then it should remain so. If it is a painted PF - it should remain so - no friggin stickers!
I have a Wms APOLLO here that has the PF Mylared - im itchin to get the damn stuff off!... One word for it - sacriliage!
LOL!!! Rant rant
