Flipper Fuse keeps blowing

[Calexico]

Hi all,

Recently the left flipper on my Whirlwind stopped working - I checked and the fuse (f6) was blown. I replaced the fuse (after checking in the manual that it was the right one) and it blew again as soon as I hit the flipper button. The flipper didn't move at all. I'm now at a loss as to what to do. Anybody have any ideas what the problem might be?

cheers,

Cal

[Ric]

the coil could be shorted (most likey the high voltage, low resistance part)

Have you tested it with your DMM?

If the coil has shorted it will probably blow the fuse as soon as you press the flipper as the voltage will just pass through the short casuing it to blow the fuse.

although it could be something else...

[Calexico]

Thanks - I'll check the coil. I don't actually have a DMM but my mate's brother in an electrician so hopefully he'll have one.

[Ric]

I am not sure if this is a fliptronic machine or not so am unsure if the issue may relate to the board

However - try the easiest issue first which will be to test the coil

[ajlaird]

First rule of flipper repair - check the EOS.

The EOS (end of stroke) switch should (must!) activate when the flipper is fully extended to prevent the coil burning out (although the fuse would normally blow first) - the EOS turns off the current to the main winding and activates the secondary winding instead.

It is quite common for flipper problems to be caused by incorrectly adjusted EOS (over time they can go out of alignment).

[Calexico]

Thanks - apologies for all the questions, this is the first time I've had a problem and I've got no experience at all with electronics (that aren't guitars). Is there anything in particular I should be looking for with the EOS that would indicate it is stuffed?

[ajlaird]

Basically you need to check that it is working.

You are looking for a switch that is activated by the flipper linkage. Manually operate the coil (with the power off) and ensure that the switch is activated just before the flipper reaches it fullest travel. You can use a multimeter with probes at either side of the switch. Put the multimeter on the continuity setting (or on low Ohms if you don't have one on your meter). I believe the Williams of that era use a normally closed switch, so the meter should read zero (or buzz) and then go open (infinity) when the flipper reaches full travel. If I am wrong it is the opposite way around, but either way you are looking for the switch to change from one to the other.