HIGH HAND PLAYFIELD UPDATE #2

[Retropin]

What you see is the result of Mylar removal... i actually worked out another way to remove Mylar that really does limit any damage, but for the first half of this PF i used conventional methods of both heat gun and freezing - freezing did absolutely notyhing to remove the Mylar, yep it made it brittle but still damaged PF when it was being removed... ill cover the Mylar removal with another post ( didnt take any pics - maybe ill do another PF first).

This is how she was before removal - looks good!



After removal and also once bare timber has been primed




This is what the removal did - this damage went right up through the centre of the PF




I "tick" in the new artwork first





And then the repaint begins.. starting to come together nicely.. you can see all the dots ive done where ive had to fill in the damage to the PF.. it shows up on camera far more than it does in real life and once protective coat goes over the top it will be invisible




Ill keep you all posted on this - this game is for sale as i need the space in the games room - have 9 pins to come and HH is making room for them.. im not going to town with this pin - the PF will be restored, new drops etc, but cab and BG will remain as they are..... sold as an honest machine with PF touch ups

[Pinfan]

Looking forward to the updates mate !

[Strangeways]

Cool !

The Blue/Green areas look like they are already touched up !

[Retropin]

LOL- they are!

[bossninja17]

Mate
I have a High Hand and will watch this with interest.
Boss

[SPURR]

Gavin would it have been possible to buff up the original mylar or was it in poor condition?  Some times I prefer to clean up original mylar if there is no creases or bubbles, removing can cause more problems than leaving it on.

[Retropin]

Mylar was applied in about 12 different sections - each had shrunk and had slight peeling on the edges where dirt was trapped - looked bloody awful.... it HAD to go!!!

[Retropin]

Bit more work done on this - im actually doing this alongside a complete repaint of a JACKS OPEN PF - some of the colours are exactly the same. JO will be another thread all of its own.

HH is coming together nicely - i like to take pictures as i go along - blown up on the screen at approx 8X actual size i can see where i need to clean up better - also if it looks good at this size then it looks 100X better in reality. For these very slight "edge"touch ups i use an eye piece, the finest brush i have and a hopefully a steady hand. The fluidity of the paint is VERY important here - too thin and it bleeds tiny amounts and doesnt cover what you want, too thick and it almost blobs and doesnt "flow" off the brush nicely. Im constantly adjusting the thickness of the paint...

anyway some more pics...











You'll see differences in the black - this is due to a gloss ( new paint) going against a buff ( old paint) - once the protective coat is applied this disappears as all work is brought to the same finish.

Im also tempted to leave some of the wear you see on the black line at kickout hole - theres absolutely no point in trying to get this all looking brand new - there is wear to the actual timber and machine does already show some history - why pretend she has never been played?... Ill clean it up a bit, but it wont be looking all perfect - what you guys reckon? I tend to lean towards the Smithsonian approach


I guess next update will be finished product - not much more to do here

[Strangeways]

Gav - see on the last picture, you can see when you have filled the paint, but it is not even. Does this "cancel" out once you apply a clearcoat ?

Can you tell that it was not even ?

Amazing work BTW

[big dog]

Thats hell good Gav, please keep those pic's coming

[SPURR]

Gav - see on the last picture, you can see when you have filled the paint, but it is not even. Does this "cancel" out once you apply a clearcoat ?

Can you tell that it was not even ?

Amazing work BTW

Great work Gav!
What Nino say's above, this is where i use 1000 wet and dry with water to get a pure flat surface.
Try this Gavin for perfect straight lines, no bleeding, very low tack so you wont lift any paint, you can make arc's with the thin tape. Just put down two lines of tape paint up the middle then lift up the tape "perfect straight lines". Most hobbie shops sell it. When I air brush I use all types of paints and it never bleeds when the tape is lifted. I would use it next to the Gottlieb name on one of your photo's, another use when painting letters put a line of tape at the bottom , paint the letters then lift tape.

[Retropin]

Thanks mark - i know the stuff and the putty - havent used the putty in this instance though

[ktm450]

Looking great Gav 

[Retropin]

Last update on this - PF is now done and awaiting new flipper bats from RTBB... theres a slight colour difference on the yellow in one part that can be seen quite clearly on camera but is bloody hard to spot in real life..

Anyway - a reminder of how she was






and how she is















Should also add that she has all new drops installed to give an extra lift

[daics3522]

AWESOME JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CONGRATS !!!!!!!!!!!!!