Author Topic: Funhouse Restoration  (Read 5644 times)

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Offline MartyJ

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #75 on: November 15, 2009, 08:03:22 PM »
I also took the sprayed piece from the rear of the playfield and compared it to another Funhouse this morning.  - Very happy with the colour match.   $#$

Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #76 on: November 16, 2009, 12:51:10 AM »
Still waiting for the Smurf self portrait.... :)

Offline ddstoys

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #77 on: November 16, 2009, 03:19:25 PM »

+1  %.%

Offline MartyJ

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #78 on: November 16, 2009, 10:30:02 PM »
Sorry guys, I hid the camera til I had cleaned up...Even the missus thought it was funny...

Anyway O.T

My Sys11 rails arrived today from Team Bop! (bestofpinball.de)  My heart sank when I saw the box as it looked like an elephant had sat on it.  Thankfully they had taped the rails to a length of timber and it prevented any damage...I was grateful as many commercial guys wont sell rails to overseas customers.  ^^^

I never really thought about the Sys11 rails on a FH until I saw a HEP resto and compared to the flyer and I agree that they look 100% better.  ITs not original, I accept that but I think it improves the overall appearance.

Flippers are done.

Decals should be here in a few days then the cabinet will be finished.  I am planning to start the CC on my playfield maybe this weekend...But I'm still waiting for word on the release of the IPB FH playfields...

Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #79 on: November 17, 2009, 06:12:28 AM »
Prototype and sample FH machines had the S11 style siderails.


Offline MartyJ

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #80 on: November 17, 2009, 09:02:57 PM »
Bored with cleaning parts, so did a bit more on the playfield tonight.  Treading into new territory for me here.

Clock inserts removed and old screen print removed.  They are getting an overnight soak in nifty to get a good clean.  Tomorrow night they will be glued and levelled.  There is a two part locktite superglue I was looking to use? - unless anyone has suggestions?  Also keen to hear tips on putting them back in (ie have the playfield upside down or correct side up when levelling them?

The plan is - inserts to go back in without decals on them.  Playfield to be cleared by me this weekend (2k).  Once 1st clear setup, light sand, touchups, decals, clear. Then repeat.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2009, 09:09:22 PM by MartyJ »

Offline FirePower

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #81 on: November 18, 2009, 02:15:29 PM »

Tomorrow night they will be glued and levelled.  There is a two part locktite superglue I was looking to use? - unless anyone has suggestions?  Also keen to hear tips on putting them back in (ie have the playfield upside down or correct side up when levelling them?


I have recently done this on my Gorgar and first used pretty fine wet and dry to level the inserts as they were quite bowed - one could easily see light through the gap when help against a flat surface.  This sanding caused the inserts to loose a bit of height so they then sunk below the PF top surface level. To overcome this I put a tiny splob of silastic on a matchstick and then placed the matchstick on the insert ensuring the matchstick was really flat, close and aligned to the top surface of the insert.  Use two matchstick for the bigger inserts and set aside to dry, insert on top of the matchstick.  When you go to glue the insert in the overhang of the matchsticks provides a support on the top of the PF.   When the insert to PF glue is dry you peel the matchstick off and are presented with an insert true and flat to the PF surface. Sorry it's a poor description, but not that hard. I will post a pic on my Gorgar resto thread.

The glue I used was superglue gel - was in hardware stores. Pretty cheap and a green cap from memory.  I used it sparringly and ended up with a bit of a gap around the insert, it's enough to fill with wax when polishing.  I read somewhere that this can be filled with normal superglue, but I haven't tried this yet.

Hope this helps.


Offline Caveoftreasures

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #82 on: November 22, 2009, 12:52:32 AM »
Marty, why not spray the full inside of the cabinet on the base and go for the fully finished look instead of the factory, not sprayed look.  !@#
When i look inside all my pins, i hate that "minimum" approach the factory used. Or are u going for that factory look to keep it close to original?
The overall spray job u did looks absolutely amazing.The colour came up a treat.

Do u reckon u could post a "list" in point form of what u did. like a cheat sheet.

ie-
1. stripped cabinet.
2. sanded cabinet with xyz grit paper or orbital.
3.sprayed cabinet with XYX product.
4. sanded etc etc and so on.

The hardest part is to know what brand product to use/purchase.I cant wait to see the finished product.Unreal  ^^^

What do ya think about the cheat sheet. I have got 3 projects i want to do. Lots of work.  ^&^
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Offline MartyJ

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #83 on: November 22, 2009, 09:37:32 AM »
I've seen a few done like that (ie full spray down to the floor) and it was more a paint saving exercise than anything (same as factory I guess).  I needed to save a bit for a mate.  I probably went overboard spraying the sides to the level I did - even though they are covered by decals.  Each time I do one I improve on my process - and learn things to do better the next time.  Would I spray to the floor on next job- not sure.  Once I've rebuilt my pins I hope not to have the bonnet up too much.  &&
The decals are done and dusted, just waiting on some extra long leg bolts then I'll post some pics.

My process is as follows (or will be for next one):

1. Strip cabinet fully and remove old decals.  I prefer the heat gun method, belt sander if all else fails.  Ensure to bring it back to wood to remove glue.
2. Sand with 120grit (float sander), followed by 220grit (float sander).
3. Fill (builders bog) on dings.  Key out any delaminated areas and repair same.  Sand 220grit (float sander).  The corners are the bits which need to be 100% to get a nice finish.
4. Fine fill repaired areas if needed.  Sand 220grit on orbital.
5. Inspect under flood light along length of cab to look for missed areas requiring fill.
6. Prime with autobody acrylic (if using acrylic paints) primer / filler.  Helps to fill grain.  I used K&H (cheap brand, but worked fine).
7. Leave to cure fully for a few days - weather dependant.  Acrylic tends to shrink.
8. Sand with 400grit on orbital.
9. Remove dust.  Prepsol.  Tack Rag.
10.  Paint cab.  I used Dulux acrylic which was paint matched to original. 
11. Once paint cured (couple of days min) I inspected finish.  Red scotchbright pad on areas where decal being applied to knockoff any high spots and to take any shine away to ensure good decal adhesion.  Remove dust, tack rag then install decals.

All up I would estimate at least 25 hours into the cabinet decal / paint job.  Crazy amount of work but the end product turned out OK so no complaints from me.
« Last Edit: November 22, 2009, 09:45:43 AM by MartyJ »

Offline MartyJ

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #84 on: November 22, 2009, 09:47:29 AM »

Tomorrow night they will be glued and levelled.  There is a two part locktite superglue I was looking to use? - unless anyone has suggestions?  Also keen to hear tips on putting them back in (ie have the playfield upside down or correct side up when levelling them?


I have recently done this on my Gorgar and first used pretty fine wet and dry to level the inserts as they were quite bowed - one could easily see light through the gap when help against a flat surface.  This sanding caused the inserts to loose a bit of height so they then sunk below the PF top surface level. To overcome this I put a tiny splob of silastic on a matchstick and then placed the matchstick on the insert ensuring the matchstick was really flat, close and aligned to the top surface of the insert.  Use two matchstick for the bigger inserts and set aside to dry, insert on top of the matchstick.  When you go to glue the insert in the overhang of the matchsticks provides a support on the top of the PF.   When the insert to PF glue is dry you peel the matchstick off and are presented with an insert true and flat to the PF surface. Sorry it's a poor description, but not that hard. I will post a pic on my Gorgar resto thread.

The glue I used was superglue gel - was in hardware stores. Pretty cheap and a green cap from memory.  I used it sparringly and ended up with a bit of a gap around the insert, it's enough to fill with wax when polishing.  I read somewhere that this can be filled with normal superglue, but I haven't tried this yet.

Hope this helps.



I'll be finishing my inserts hopefully during the week.  I like your method and I'll give it a go.

Offline MartyJ

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #85 on: November 22, 2009, 08:27:58 PM »
More progress.  Headbox is on and cabinet wiring completed.  New power cord etc.

After checking all plugs 100% I powered up to ensure no resets like last time.  Caps and BR work seems to have been good.

Solid 5v and CPU booted well.  Defaulted to English and display is working 100%.  Wrapped about that as is a big cost to replace.  #*#

Coin door bolts were finished off this morning, just waiting to fully cure before installation.  New door to go in and should look good.

I've got to order some 25mm double sided tape from the panel shop as the Sys11 rails are much wider and I want to ensure good adhesion.  Photos to come on Tuesday!!

Offline MartyJ

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #86 on: November 23, 2009, 10:11:57 PM »
Couple of pics of cabinet progress.


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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #87 on: November 23, 2009, 10:43:40 PM »

Speechless !!

Well done Marty - Looks fantastic !
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Offline Supremicus

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #88 on: November 23, 2009, 11:33:48 PM »
That looks amazing marty, well done.

Offline ktm450

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Re: Funhouse Restoration
« Reply #89 on: November 24, 2009, 04:28:03 PM »
Nice  ^^^