Gtb Quick Draw

[tonyt]

Great job Mitch

[Mr Pinbologist]

How does the print come up on the clear window vinyl?

I tried water slide decal paper once but wasnt happy with the finish on the print from my ink jet printer.
Id be interested in how this stuff comes up

The print came up pretty good on this stuff. I had been having problems lately with the waterslide decal paper, the edges being printed blurred and furry looking on my inkjet printer, could be the ink getting old?? (its been in there for a while).

When i bought the clear window sticker, i also bought some waterslide decal paper for use in a laser printer, so i'll be trying that next time. Im thinking that the laser decal paper should work better as there is no need to seal the print with clear lacquer before using, unlike the inkjet paper, so should be even less noticeable.

[Strangeways]

Great update, Mitch. Levelling inserts makes the end result so much better.

[howzat]

Hi Mitch Great to follow your progress  its looking good and its a great old game   Howzat 

[Mr Pinbologist]

Hi guys, just a quick update on my Quickdraw PF progress;

The touchups (not much needed in that department) and the insert levelling were all done over the last few nights. I ended up deciding NOT to do ALL of the inserts, mainly because they really werent that bad as they were, and that some of them were hard to get at to push them out without dismantling half of the underside mechanisms. Only the inserts where the ball was most likely to get stuck were done.. ie above rollover lane entries, bonus ladder, and extra bonus insert between flippers.

The mylar has been applied now.. following pics show the mylar having been cut to size, and being applied, and a couple of shots after the mylar application.

[Mr Pinbologist]

Next i started cutting out the holes in the mylar for the posts, and rollover slots and started fitting the posts back on. Before putting the posts on i polished them with Re-po paint doctor and cloth, cleaning each post before attaching them back onto the PF.

Now the first couple of pics show one of my stuffups! This post screw just twisted off in the PF while attaching one of the posts It wasnt even really tight going in, the screw must;ve been weak/brittle or something. Anyway after much swearing at it!! the only way i could think to remove the broken thread was to drill into the PF beside the broken piece, and knock the broken screw thread out through the hole i drilled. After a couple of attempts, i managed to tap the thread through the Pf and out. To refill the holes i squirted some PVA glue into the holes and drove pieces of bamboo meat skewers, into the holes (2nd pic).

3rd pic is the post refitted securely into the hole.. worked a treat

And final pic showing where im at with the PF reassembly at the moment.. will add more pics tomorrow!

[goodolddays]

Looking great Mitch . 
Nice recovery with the post hole problem. Thanks for mentioning your technique with that. I need to do the same on a couple of the worn screw holes on my Firepower for the left hand metal drain/ball guide

Cheers
Dave

[Mr Pinbologist]

Thanks Dave. That was a trick i read about in the Mr Pinball website http://www.xmission.com/~daina/pinball.html
in the repair tips section. Heaps of useful tricks there

[JD]

Great Job Mitch.

Thanks for posting.

J.D.

[ddstoys]

Looking good Mitch hate when the posts snap have had a couple myself and it is usually followed with a few choice words

[Mr Pinbologist]

There were more that a FEW choice words thrown about Daniel all turned out good though in the end

Well today i didnt get as much done as i would've liked to, but i got the wood rails sanded back and a fresh coat of clear sprayed on to pretty them up a bit. sanded them back with 80 grit, followed by 220 and finally 400 grit before hitting them with several coats of clear acrylic. Once they were dry i gave them a light sand back with 1200 grit wet/dry paper and buffed them with a cloth and some 3M hand glaze.

Ok some pics.. tonight i started putting on some of the new plastic lane guides and a few rubbers after refitting the wood rails. The metal top arch guide and the kickout hole guides were polished up with Autosol before refitting to the PF. All screwheads are being buffed with Autosol as well before they are fitted.

[Mr Pinbologist]

Time for another small update...

I haven't had much time lately to devote to this project, but about a week ago i decided to tidy up the standup targets which were looking rather shabby.
To do this, i used the same clear window decal material used for the inserts (2nd pic shows printed decals, extras in case of f@#kups!!).

I took a good square on picture of one of the targets rather that trying to scan it, then cleaned up and resized the image in photostudio ready to print. I then cleaned off the old bullseye markings with prepsol, polished them with Re-po paint doctor (this made the rivet nice n shiny too!), then wiped them over with prepsol again to remove the wax from the Re-po paint doctor so the decal would stick properly. before applying the decal i used a hole punch to remove the centre of the decal so it would go over the rivet on the target. Then i trimmed off the excess decal with a scalpel, and applied some mylar over the decal to protect it. The mylar too was hole punched to go over the rivet.

Last two pics show the targets in the PF holes, i still had some trimming to do when these pics were taken, hence the jagged edges that can be seen (trimming has been done now).

[faza]

Looks great love the reflection of the Mylar

[Mr Pinbologist]

And over the last couple of days i re-did the bumper bodies artwork, again using the same window decal material. 1st pic shows the printed test run for the decals, and the cleaned off bumper bodies, ready for decals to be applied. i had to resize the art several times til it was right, my first attempt at the decals printed too big   I hate wasting this stuff  

And finally a pic of the finished bumpers, complete with the new caps from PBR (thanks Cam   ) After i had successfully applied the decals i gave them a quick coat of clear acrylic to protect the ink. The bumpers mechanics have been fully cleaned and rebuilt, using new coil sleeves. One of the rod & ping assemblies had a loose rod, which i had to repair, by clamping it in a vise, and peening over the rivetted top part with a ball peen hammer, to get the rod nice and tight again.

[deadlydave]

Coming along nicely Mitch, check your mail.