Background:
I bought my Dr Who pretty cheap, its low fade, almost perfect PF, sweet plastics, new DMD, plays sweet but.........at some stage it has had miosture inside the cab. This has led to surface rust on brackets that are attached to the underside of the PF. I was fully aware of this issue when I bought the pin, and took a gamble I guess because it was cheap. Some of the rust is minor surface, some has eaten a mm or 2. I know alot, maybe most guys wouldnt touch a pin like this. I thought hard about it, but hey its game I love, and cool if it can be saved. None of the PCBs are effected.
Fix: well hopefully its a long term fix! I took my chinese dremel out, and ground down the rust, careful to leave a layer of rust for application of Ranex (rust converter). A few days after grinding off the rust, and applying the Ranex it looked pretty decent (alot better anyway).
Before example:
After:
Next issue was the Mini PF. It was fixed before I took delivery, but after a few days play one of the mushroom buttons became sticky, and I started to get a mini PF opto error. I played the machine up until today, I just wasnt game to remove the Mini PF.
But after some months consideration, and after reading this nice guide:
http://members.shaw.ca/tomblack/drwh...F%20repair.pdf I decided it was something I could do.
Took the mini PF out this morning, and have started the resto. I found that the sticky mushroom button's circlip was rubbing/getting stuck on a opto LED. The solder on that LED has broken away, and the LED itself is worn. I am unsure if this LED can be re-used, or I can just whack in another
I am considering placing a fibre or rubber washer between the opto PCB, and the plastic housing to slightly lower the LED. There is no adjustment to correct this issue, just looks like I get bodgy/inventive.
Few more pics:
So other than a good clean, and correcting this issue I should be able to return my doctor to full health soon. Well after Monday because I will get the Spurr's advice, and use the better gear at work.
