Author Topic: Black Knight Power Supply Question  (Read 476 times)

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Offline Private Gimp

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Black Knight Power Supply Question
« on: August 17, 2010, 10:21:07 PM »
Hello all,
I got a new Rottendog Williams System 7 power supply in from the US to replace a rather dodgey noisey and faulty supply. What a sexy looking board this is and I can't wait to get it in there, much like an old girlfriend I had once.

On the Black Knight the wires for the GI are soldered directly to the power supply board which means I will need to cut them away. I can't even take the head off the machine because of this
My question is:
Should I try and get a new 2 pin female molex connector for the GI output and keep it original? and do you guys know a part number?

The Rottendog supply has provision for a 4 pin 0.156 header as well as the 2 pin molex connector (the 0.156 header is not installed but can be easily) on the GI output.
Rather than trying to get the 2 pin female molex connector (which don't know the part number) should I install a 4 pin 0.156 header and bang a connector on with trifurcon pins?
Would this hold up better than the old 2 pin molex connector job?

I would prefer the header pin trifurcon method because I have all the parts I need to do it, have any of you guys done this to a Rottendog and would it hold up better heat-wise in the long run.

Regards all,
Cliff
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Offline FirePower

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Re: Black Knight Power Supply Question
« Reply #1 on: August 18, 2010, 01:55:07 PM »
Not sure if this helps, but in WMS pins of this vintage the playfield and headbox molex connectors are 0.062" and the ones that go to the original PSU board and transformer input are 0.093". These dimmensions relate to the diameter of the pins.  I have purchased from Ed at GPE and he was helpful and had good postage rates.  His website http://www.greatplainselectronics.com/ has pictures of all the connectors so that may help you identify what you're after.

I also have a data sheet showing molex connectors with dimmensions and part numbers if that would help - pm me your address and I'll send it your way.

Offline Private Gimp

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Re: Black Knight Power Supply Question
« Reply #2 on: August 18, 2010, 10:09:22 PM »
Thanks for the tip. I have ordered molex connectors and pins etc from GPE many times before and went on to their site and found the part!
Its 0.093.

I was going to try Farnell locally for the molex stuff but the molex part number as shown by GPE comes up in Farnell stock but a completely different connector, go figure.
They have the 3191 type 6 pin connectors and plugs but not the 2 pin 3191 type listed, very weird as other GPE/Molex part numbers come up OK.

Anyway, thanks very much for your help. Iam going to stick with the original parts and get them from GPE.

very kind regards,
Cliff
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Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Black Knight Power Supply Question
« Reply #3 on: August 19, 2010, 05:32:09 AM »
Assuming you are talking about the little connector in the lower left hand corner of this board:



GPE has the original parts.

19-09-1026 is the male
That is the GPE and the Molex P/N, the linked datasheet at GPE is not the right picture, but I've bought these and that is the right part. It goes on the 2 yellow wires.
15-31-1026 is the female jack that mounts to the board.
Same deal, GPE P/N is the same as the molex P/N.

Looks like this, once repaired (note I had to extend the 2 yellow wires, were just too short...



Don't forget to fuse 1 of the AC leads of each bridge, while you're in there working :) I've fixed games where the bridges weren't fused per the WMS recommendations, and it's not fun, clean or easy! 2 fuses and holders are CHEAP insurance.

Offline Private Gimp

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Re: Black Knight Power Supply Question
« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2010, 12:31:55 PM »
Thanks John,

I ordered the 19-09-1026 femate molex connector from GPE and no problem.
Thanks for tip on the fusing of the bridges, much appreciated but do you have pic on the finished fusing change you made that I could see?

Kind regards,
Cliff

Offline johnwartjr

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Re: Black Knight Power Supply Question
« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2010, 01:07:41 AM »
Here's a picture from a FPII



Basically, you take 1 AC lead from each bridge - whichever one doesn't matter - cut it, and solder a fuse holder in

1 bridge has blue A/C leads, the other has red ones - again, each bridge has *2* a/c leads, only need to fuse one.

Then, put in a 8 amp slo blow fuse for each holder.

Now, why do we do this?

WMS had a flawed design that they fixed around F-14 tomcat. If either bridge or the big blue cap shorts in the backbox, it could start a fire. I've never fixed one that burned, but I *have* fixed a couple where the bridges shorted and melted the wiring clear back to the transformer!

Cheap insurance.



Offline Private Gimp

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Re: Black Knight Power Supply Question
« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2010, 11:34:53 PM »
Thanks for the mod and showing us.
I have installed the fuses. All good.

Thnaks again.

Cliff