Baywatch - Suddenly went dead

[beaky]

yep. power supply

if there was a short in the driver board then you would have 5V on right side and 0 on left side with the driver board connected

easiest thing to replace is the transistor on the power supply board (no soldering required)
replace it with a 2N6059 transistor.

 

[beaky]

if that doesn't fix it then you will need to replace a few of the capacitors on the power supply.

[swinks]

yep. power supply

if there was a short in the driver board then you would have 5V on right side and 0 on left side with the driver board connected

easiest thing to replace is the transistor on the power supply board (no soldering required)
replace it with a 2N6059 transistor.

 

could I the transistor at Jaycar?

also do you know the what type the capacitors are off hand?

thanks again for your help

[swinks]

checked out the parts I need for the power board to hopefully solve the problem
TR5 - Transistor 2N6059
C2 - Capacitor 100uf25v
C3 - Capacitor 47uf63v
C7 - Capacitor 330uf25v

challenge now is finding them, Jaycar only have the first 2 capacitors and that's it.

Can anyone recommend where is a good place to get them, found them at Farnell but have to buy them in lots of 5 & 10k - slight overkill.

[goodolddays]

Gday Jady .

How about Ed at GPE http://www.greatplainselectronics.com.

You can use a 2N6284 as a replacement for the probably obsolete transistor in your game .

Cheers
Dave

[Mr Pinbologist]

checked out the parts I need for the power board to hopefully solve the problem
TR5 - Transistor 2N6059
C2 - Capacitor 100uf25v
C3 - Capacitor 47uf63v
C7 - Capacitor 330uf25v

challenge now is finding them, Jaycar only have the first 2 capacitors and that's it.

Can anyone recommend where is a good place to get them, found them at Farnell but have to buy them in lots of 5 & 10k - slight overkill.

You should be able to use a 470uF 25v cap (which Jaycar have) for C7 in a pinch, i've looked at the circuit and since its on the 5 volt line its value isnt all that critical so it should be ok.
Its usually ok to go slightly higher in value but never lower.

Hope this helps!! Cheers... Mitch

[swinks]

cheers for help guys, beaky has come to the rescue and sending me the 4 parts in the mail, so should be able to do install and next stage of testing by next weekend, also should have the new dmd power lead kit from pinball life as well

[swinks]

Thanks Beaky got the parts and now have to do some installing and hopefully the problem will be solved 

[swinks]

ok I installed all the following parts 

TR5 - Transistor 2N6057
C2 - Capacitor 100uf25v
C3 - Capacitor 47uf63v
C7 - Capacitor 330uf25v

with the +- in the correct direction and unfortunately no change in voltages, with the dmd not plugged in still only getting 4.83v and with the dmd plugged in 0.05v at the 5v test point and on the power supply to the dmd as well.

I also tested the white resistor and still get the same results as listed before

no plugs to the dmd - white resistor
lhs = 4.83v  ,  rhs = 5.05v

with just the dmd lead in - white resistor
lhs = 0.39v  ,  rhs = 0.55v

with just the dmd board lead in - white resistor
lhs = 0.06v  ,  rhs = 0.19v

with both dmd & dmd board leads in - white resistor
lhs = 0.06v  ,  rhs = 0.18v


Beaky or anyone else have any clues, please

[swinks]

on pinside a recommendation was made to me to check the bridge rectifier

utoplay=1&rel=0

I did the test and one leg beeped so I am now assuming it is shorted based on this video.

I will have to find one of these and do a replacement.

I did notice when I was checking the fuses as well that there was a 5A SB in  a 8A SB (F4 location) and a 7.5A in a 5A SB (F6 location), therefore a higher amperage was allowed in to potentially cause damage - is there anything else to check or just order the bridge rectifier at this stage?

[swinks]

Just wanting to double check

the schematics say a CM3501 Bridge Rectifier is what is on the power board so on the net the specs for this one is 35A and 100V

I called jaycar and they have the same dimensionally bridge rectifier which is ZR1324 with specs of 35A and 400V

Can I use this as an option to solve the next stage of the repair?

Am I putting myself at any risk with this change?

[beaky]

the jay car bridge will be fine

[Blktgr74]

Are you having any luck?

[beaky]

the voltage on the RHS of the resistor should not be dropping off like that. 
was there any corrosion under the capacitors when you removed them?

try doing this with the dmd display and driver boards disconnected:

Connect a 906 flasher lamp across the +5 and GND test points on the power supply and then test the voltages at the resistor
I am just trying to see how much load the +5v can take before it starts dropping off and I often use a 906 wedge flash lamp to determine this






 

[swinks]

no corrosion that was a obvious leak with the c2 and c3 had that plastic black and the other one did look brownish - C7 330uf 25v which is to the left of the large white block resistor.

I went to Jaycar and got the part but the guys there tested the bridge on the board and they said it looked fine, I worked out the novice in me had the setting on the multimeter set to the continuity sound test  .

I watched a few more youtube vids and corrected my multimeter setting and did the check again. (test reference is viewing from the back of the board) This time doing the tests from the positive to the AC's got 583 on the bottom AC and 596 on the right side AC and obviously switch the leads and nothing. Now with the positive on the neg of the bridge and touching the above AC got 580 and then touching the left AC got 660 and switch the leads again and nowing. In the video it said readings should be between 400 and 600, one is a bit higher by 10% - is this still ok.


I looked on youtube to work out how to check the white block resistor which is rated at 5W 0.12 ohm symbol and then a J

I got the following readings with the multimeter set at the following ohm setting
200 gave 0.5
2k gave 0.001
sound test gave 001

would this suggest a possible problem with the white resistor not matching the 0.12?????  


I will wait to do any globe tests until someone can confirm a possible suspect white block resistor