Gottlieb Surf Champ Restoration

[oldskool1969]

 
getting really excited now 

[ktm450]

Very nice work, great to see all the photos of the mechs 

[Strangeways]

Cardboard hey? What are your thoughts on when to use the contact file?
This is looking really sparkly and some great advice for us wanting to restore and maintain these oldskool treasures.

I use contact files - as in the METAL file - I use for high current applications such as the slingshot contacts and flipper button contacts.
Flexstone contacts are good for many applications where there a very worn contacts.

I use thin cardboard as most contacts are in excellent shape, but they have built up dirt, lube and other crap that simply require the cardboard to "dislodge" the dirt. All the contacts in the score reels were cleaned with cardboard. The relays - I used Flexstone in some cases - you can tell - where the point on the leaf contact is larger.

[oldskool1969]

I use contact files - as in the METAL file - I use for high current applications such as the slingshot contacts and flipper button contacts.
Flexstone contacts are good for many applications where there a very worn contacts.

I use thin cardboard as most contacts are in excellent shape, but they have built up dirt, lube and other crap that simply require the cardboard to "dislodge" the dirt. All the contacts in the score reels were cleaned with cardboard. The relays - I used Flexstone in some cases - you can tell - where the point on the leaf contact is larger.
[/quote]
Cool, cheers for the info, hope this helps others too 

[Limorange]

I would never thought to use cardboard, thanks for the tip. 

[Retropin]

I use contact files - as in the METAL file - I use for high current applications such as the slingshot contacts and flipper button contacts.
Flexstone contacts are good for many applications where there a very worn contacts.

I use thin cardboard as most contacts are in excellent shape, but they have built up dirt, lube and other crap that simply require the cardboard to "dislodge" the dirt. All the contacts in the score reels were cleaned with cardboard. The relays - I used Flexstone in some cases - you can tell - where the point on the leaf contact is larger.

Cool, cheers for the info, hope this helps others too 
[/quote]

Cardboard here too.. namely a strip off a business card or similar dipped in meths. Lifts the dirt and grease off easily

[Strangeways]

The Playfield ended up needing (well it didn't "need", I just "wanted to") a bit more work. The bonus inserts were slightly sunken and I thought it was best to remove them, level them and then re install. I avoid levelling any inserts that have artwork on them, as this is not really a "High End" playfield restoration.

So here is what I started with after many sessions with Magic Eraser and alcohol ;








Inserts removed and leveled





These inserts will also be removed and I have the area in front of the outhole to attend to





Inserts installed and leveled ;





I gave Gavin (Retropin) the dimensions of the inserts, and he sent me down some inserts templates to play around with - rather than use a sharpie. The were VERY easy to use and the results were promising. I've replaced the STAR rollovers as they were old and grubby.





I've done some of the STAR rollover inserts using the templates. I used my airbrush to paint the borders.





Bonus area ;








Some lines needed to be done





Bonus area completed





The area I need to touch up is lightly sanded and then masked. I then had the wife match the paint and then I built up the area with the divot and blended in the surrounding area ;





Done !





The playfield is ready for the next step !

[oldskool1969]

 
BEST THREAD EVER !
Loving the close up shots and that Gav does the insert stencils. Learning heaps
Beautifull oldskool artwork, classic surfie theme.
How good is it looking.

[Limorange]

Thanks for the pictures, it's good to see the different tricks people use on these restos.
Can never learn too much.

[Steve2010]

Great improvement Nino.

For the areas near the pop bumpers, there is the typical pitting in the paint from the years of downward hammering the ball from the pop bumpers.  Will you be using the floating type of of mylar ring around the pop bumpers (as per Gottlieb standard), or adhesive type?  I repaced mine on the Buccaneer with the latter, after touching up the playfield.  I thought in that way, no more dirt getting under the ring.

[Mr Pinbologist]

Lookn great so far Nino 
Great job with the wear spot in the light blue 

[Strangeways]

Great improvement Nino.

For the areas near the pop bumpers, there is the typical pitting in the paint from the years of downward hammering the ball from the pop bumpers.  Will you be using the floating type of of mylar ring around the pop bumpers (as per Gottlieb standard), or adhesive type?  I repaced mine on the Buccaneer with the latter, after touching up the playfield.  I thought in that way, no more dirt getting under the ring.

I prefer the adhesive. I'll cover that in my next update.

Lookn great so far Nino 
Great job with the wear spot in the light blue 

My wife is very good at color matching. I like to cover more than the area I'm working on to distract the eyes from the touch up itself.

[Mr Pinbologist]

My wife is very good at color matching. I like to cover more than the area I'm working on to distract the eyes from the touch up itself.

Yepp, that is often the best way to do it, mask off the entire area of colour as you did. 

[Strangeways]

Update and disclaimer - Early in the project, it was decided to install mylar, so I proceeded with the touch ups and leveling etc. The mylar was ordered from the USA, got lost in transit and I had to wait until the insurance went through etc etc. All the warnings were already there in front of me - "Do not install mylar on this playfield.."

So I prepared the playfield and it took 45 minutes to install the mylar and it went on perfectly except for a small crease near the spinner (which makes no sense), as can be seen in the photos below ;








Happy that it was installed correctly, and it was as smooth as glass, I went off to do some other work and returned 2 hours later to see this ;











Horrified, I thought I'd let it settle and then straighten it the following day. The next day, it was even worse, and was deteriorating every hour. The lifting and creases were increasing in size !





I called up Gavin, as I needed a second opinion. His idea was to remove it asap before the adhesive sets. So I did - and it look 15 minutes.





You can see the mylar is simply rubbish. Now this is "supposed" to be the best on the market. Never again !





Morale of the story and lesson learnt - I've applied mylar on over 20 games without a single issue. "Mylar" these days is NOT the same as it was 10 years ago. APR will NEVER install mylar on a playfield. The best place for mylar is .. in the bin !





Right - So after cleaning up the residue - which took minutes as the adhesive was rubbish - we have decided to clearcoat the playfield professionally ! This will be great opportunity to see how an EM plays with a clearcoat !

So in the end, no damage done, and a lesson learned. I've currently prepared the playfield and it will be clearcoated in the next 2 weeks.

[pinball god]

The only disturbing thing I found in the Mylar fiasco was that you wear crocks.