I agree, do not use CRC, RP7, WD-40, Inox, LPS 1, 2 or 3 or any spray in a can for that matter. And as I mentioned earlier, never apply lubricant on any metal to plastic/fiber components which includes coil sleeves and armatures. I certainly don't take everything I read as gospel and although I have not been in the game for long, I would like to think that my years as an engineer has taught me some common sense, metal on metal dry will wear! Please see an excerpt below from Clay's guides. I assume these were also written back in the nineties but that's when the machines were made. It would be interesting to know how today's machines are put together. Please don't forget the "regular maintenance" quote. I take that as every X amount of games one should disassemble, clean and replenish but only the metal to metal pivot or sliding points. Oh, and use the correct type sparingly. I would only use 3-in-1 oil to get you out of a bind, no pun intended. That in my book would only be a quick fix to temporarily free up a gummy pivot point and remind you that you have well and truly played X amount of games and maintenance is needed.
1f. Getting Started: Lubrication Notes[/size][/font][/size]Pinball machines, for the most part, do not require any lubrication. Most parts run "dry". Far more damage can be done to a pinball machine by over-lubricating, than by under-lubricating. As a rule, if in doubt as to lubrication, don't do it! Throw that WD-40 away, it won't be used here. The only parts that will require any lubrication are metal-to-metal moving parts. There aren't very many in a game. Only ball eject and slingshot hinges. Use 3-in-1 oil on these if you must. But try and keep that lubrication in the tool box and away from the game.
If some prior person did lubricate the game, the lubrication has probably now congealed with the infamous "black pinball dust" to form a thick, black mess. This is unrepairable on coil sleeves, and new parts will need to be installed.[/font]
