Black Hole Resto

[MartyJ]

Hi guys,

I'm slowly making progress on my Black Hole machine.  I will post more pics as I go.  Machine was purchased not going or tested so the first thing I did when I got it home was cut the power cord off - so I wouldn't be tempted to turn it on and see where it was at.  In hindsight, this was a smart move - as I've read you can do more damage by rushing these things.

I didn't take any photos of it complete when I got it home, as the leg brackets were stripped, so I pulled it down straight away.  The cabinet was emptied and floor replaced.  I still need to cut the speakers, vents and switch hole.  I should have done this before glueing it in, but I'll find a work around.

As far as the electricals go, lots of work in this area.  I removed the board panel from the actual backboard, along with the power section so I can work on it upstairs.  The transformers have been jumpered to 240v, caps replaced (orange one gone), bridges all tested and wiring visually inspected.  Powersupply was removed and all sections rebuilt as per Clay's guide.  Grounding mod completed as well.  Tested once finished and all voltages 100% spot on. 
Next was driver board.  As per another thread I was having issues with readings on ALL of the transistors.  Turns out my DMM was a turd and only putting about 1.0v through on diode test.  Not enough grunt to test them properly.  Tested with Silverballs DMM, had a couple of small issues with that board and he kindly swapped me for a near NOS one (nice and clean!).  Ground mods done to driver board, tested all now 100%.
CPU board...Not booting initially.  U4 & U5 swapped out.  Nil value.  Thought it was displays, all removed and tested (they are OK).  Clock tested.  Was OK, but replaced anyway.  Reset section working 100%.  IRQ is stuck high (and still is) so I've removed U2 & U3 and have a updated replacement on the way.  I used the strip sockets on these and I think I'll use them in the future too.  Hopefully in a week or so I will be in a better position to know.  New PROM1 on the way too just to be sure.

[MartyJ]

Playfield (upper) has been completely stripped.  I need to formulate a bit of a plan with this.  Some repairs need to be done around the bumpers, but this should blend OK as the colours are fairly basic.
Unfortunately no mylar on this (playfield).  Wear is almost nil apart from bumpers.  The playfield is very 'dry', if this makes sense.  I'm not sure if it is dust or something else, but playfield has completely lost all shine and smoothness.  I've given a few spots a polish with novus 2 which seems to improve it a bit.  Its almost like it needs a very slight cut prior to polish.
Once the repairs are done I've got mylar on the way which will be a full playfield cover (same as my T2).
An order is going in to PBR for bumpercaps, some targets and other minor bits and pieces.

[bigdaddy]

That looks like a sweet project. I'd never seen one of these machines in the flesh until last evening at the expo. I love the depth when you look at the lower playfield. Got to get me one of these some day. What do they play like? Anyway keep them posts coming.

[ddstoys]

Looking good so far mate you dont muck around with your restores do you.    And Big daddy they play awsome but they are very evil i still cant get multiball grrr

[MartyJ]

Still a lot more work to do on the electricals.  Some coils to be replaced (when RTBB is back!), every playfield and cabinet switch diode (lots) is being replaced.  All playfield transistors being upgraded and replaced.  All pop bumper boards upgraded to rottendog replacements.  One old one will be rebuilt and used for the lower playfield upkicker.

I am planning to fuse EVERY coil.  From what I've read and been told, coils locking on seems to be a big issue with these.  I don't want further damage to occur (or fire) so this will be the plan.  More than likely a 3amp slo-blo in an inline fuse holder or similar.

You can see from the photo at some stage a coil has locked on and gotten very hot!

Looking good so far mate you dont muck around with your restores do you.    And Big daddy they play awsome but they are very evil i still cant get multiball grrr

I've been at this one for a while now.  Not at my usual pace.  Can only spend about 1.5 days a week at the moment.  Not happy about it.

[MartyJ]

More, cabinet shown with new floor.

I've got a stencil kit on order from PinballPal.  Its especially designed for the export model.  If all goes to plan the cabinet should come out very nice.

I'm having trouble getting the side rail nails out.  I've read Nino's previous thread about it but doesnt seem to be working.

Over to the pics:

[MartyJ]

More

[ddstoys]

I love it a pinball nut who isnt scared to throw plenty of Coin at a classic thi sone should be around for generations to come.  A+ so far marty

[Strangeways]

Good start, Marty.

I've tried another method of removing siderails that I used on the Galaxy, which was successful - but Sterns used slightly shorter nails, so that may explain why it was so easy.

[The pinballist formally known as Dean Morgan]

Looking good Marty!!

[MartyJ]

I love it a pinball nut who isnt scared to throw plenty of Coin at a classic thi sone should be around for generations to come.  A+ so far marty

This one hasn't been to bad on budget (this far).  On average I spend between $300 to $1000 depending on how much needs to be done.  On the last couple I've replaced DMD's which eats into costs a lot.

I am doing well thus far, assuming I can get my CPU to boot (probably late next week when GPE package arrives)
(we won't count my Fluke!  shh having to hide that one from the missus!)

I will have to get around 3-4 coils for this.  Wasn't expecting this but noticed the solder lugs have broken off the plastic.  I don't think gluing them back on would be sufficient? (copper still attached).

Good start, Marty.

I've tried another method of removing siderails that I used on the Galaxy, which was successful - but Sterns used slightly shorter nails, so that may explain why it was so easy.

I tried the paint scraper under the rail and it doesn't work, heads are in too tight to use pliers, so last option may be to drill them out?

Looking good Marty!!

Thanks Dean.  Your advise has been of most help!  I cannot wait to play my first Sys80.

[pinnies4me]

I removed mine using an old pair of side cutters. With the thin edge on these they can grab the fattest part of the head flush to the rail, and twist enough to get them a tiny bit out, enough to grab with pliers and twist the rest of the way.

[ddstoys]

Hey Marty
              I would suggest you fuse your Coils the owner of Rock had it home and setup for an hour and the slingshot blew a fuse GRRRR now i have to go out and fix it

[MartyJ]

I removed mine using an old pair of side cutters. With the thin edge on these they can grab the fattest part of the head flush to the rail, and twist enough to get them a tiny bit out, enough to grab with pliers and twist the rest of the way.

Will try on the weekend.  Great tip!

Hey Marty
              I would suggest you fuse your Coils the owner of Rock had it home and setup for an hour and the slingshot blew a fuse GRRRR now i have to go out and fix it

Yep, that was going to be planned.  Once RTBB is back online I will buy a stack of the fuse holders and fuse EVERY coil.

[ddstoys]

Yes the rocks problem was the fuse so i fused the sling coils damn stuck switch.    Funnilly we sold the fuse holders at work obviously been there for years as they are $1.95 each which i think has to be cheap so im gunna grab all of them