Flipper blowing fuse

[Strangeways]

I've check the eos and seemed ok, looked similar to the LHS one. Couldn't find any loose wires as well. The leaf switch that is physically activated by the flipper button seems to be very close to the ball release trigger mech. I can't see for sure but would love to test this theory by raising the playfield and trying the flipper. But no fuses yet. I just wonder if when activated it is also touching metal or something on the ball release mech.

Is this a possibility or highly unlikely?

I'm more of an economical flipper player and don't over do the flippering or need to hold and trap balls, so that's why I reckon the problem didn't become that apparent after the rebuild.

Possible - But also check the diodes on the suspect coil.

[MartyJ]

I've got a T2 which has had full flipper kit done and work very well (thanks MarkC).!

If you want me to post photos of mine, just to show positioning, clearance, wiring, EOS etc...just let me know and I'll throw them up...

[pinball god]

I've check the eos and seemed ok, looked similar to the LHS one. Couldn't find any loose wires as well. The leaf switch that is physically activated by the flipper button seems to be very close to the ball release trigger mech. I can't see for sure but would love to test this theory by raising the playfield and trying the flipper. But no fuses yet. I just wonder if when activated it is also touching metal or something on the ball release mech.

Is this a possibility or highly unlikely?

I'm more of an economical flipper player and don't over do the flippering or need to hold and trap balls, so that's why I reckon the problem didn't become that apparent after the rebuild.

Possible - But also check the diodes on the suspect coil.

Novice at this, what do you mean by check the diodes, voltage?  please advise if possible Thanks

[pinball god]

I've got a T2 which has had full flipper kit done and work very well (thanks MarkC).!

If you want me to post photos of mine, just to show positioning, clearance, wiring, EOS etc...just let me know and I'll throw them up...

That's very kind of you Marty, pictures can always help. If its not too much trouble I'd appreciate it and I can print them out to file in my fix-it book.

However, your avatar looks pretty awesome, puts my games room to shame. I don't know if I should talk to people like you LOL (just kidding). Your T2 looks in good nick bet it plays better than mine at the moment. I'm using my fingers as flippers!!

[Strangeways]

Do you have a soldering iron and a multimeter ?

[pinball god]

Do you have a soldering iron and a multimeter ?

Yep and not bad at both. BTW my TZ little flipper just died last night (unrelated) so it looks like I'll be an expert on flippers soon, but will tackle T2 first.

[Strangeways]

Unsolder one side of the coil lug (you can do all three if you like - just remember where they go) - set the MM to OHMS and check the resistance of the coil (outside lugs then middle left lug / middle right lug).. If you measure a short or a value less than 2 ohms - you have a problem. Set the MM to "diode" and then test the diodes...

If the coil was shorted, the fuse would blow as soon as the game starts... If it happens within a minute or two of playing, then the EOS is not gapped  - the coil will be hot to touch.

[pinball god]

Thanks mate will give it a try when my fuses come in.

[MartyJ]

http://img361.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leftgw9.jpg


http://img361.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rightyy8.jpg

[pinball god]

Thanks Marty just printed nice colour prints of it for my cheat book. BTW I see you got leds on the inserts. How they work out? I think Greg sells these and I was thinking of maybe trying them out with my current order or fuses and coils but thought I'd hold off until I knew a little more about them.

[MartyJ]

Thanks Marty just printed nice colour prints of it for my cheat book. BTW I see you got leds on the inserts. How they work out? I think Greg sells these and I was thinking of maybe trying them out with my current order or fuses and coils but thought I'd hold off until I knew a little more about them.

I'm a huge fan of the PF LED's.....It made my T2 100% better.  Less voltage and heat (not that I notice it) but the whites, greens & blues absolutely pop out and are super bright....I even put a few whites in the backbox....
It cost about $200 or thereabouts from Greg...mostly #555 and a handful of #44's & 4 x 906's.  Don't go by manual do a visual and match the colours.  The reds are the only ones which don't make a massive difference but still worth doing....

I took a crappy video of LED's in previous topic:
http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=262.15

Have your fuses arrived yet?  How did the coils checkout?

[pinball god]

The Led's look great, I did similar to my ToM but the ones Greg have look better made. I had real problems getting the #555's to work and had to adjust the contacts until they worked.

On my T2 (no led's yet) I actually used coloured bulbs on the white target inserts so that then the skill shot is on they colours alternate ie red, yellow, white, yellow, red etc. Looks ok but would be better with led's

I got my fuses and quickly blew one testing a theory. Have tested the coil but have a new one waiting just in case. Will try this weekend. Thanks for asking. Did also look at your pixs and mine seem similar however, the coil lugs are on the opposite ends. Is that due to a different brand of coil?

Also is it necessary to take off the wires to measure ohms, if so why for my own interest.

[MartyJ]

The Led's look great, I did similar to my ToM but the ones Greg have look better made. I had real problems getting the #555's to work and had to adjust the contacts until they worked.

On my T2 (no led's yet) I actually used coloured bulbs on the white target inserts so that then the skill shot is on they colours alternate ie red, yellow, white, yellow, red etc. Looks ok but would be better with led's

I got my fuses and quickly blew one testing a theory. Have tested the coil but have a new one waiting just in case. Will try this weekend. Thanks for asking. Did also look at your pixs and mine seem similar however, the coil lugs are on the opposite ends. Is that due to a different brand of coil?

Also is it necessary to take off the wires to measure ohms, if so why for my own interest.

I am not too sure re the coil lugs at opposite ends...I remember reading it should be away from the coil stop end as the constant vibrations can cause damage / crack solder joints...but I stand to be corrected on this one...

Re the testing of the coil, not sure if it has been posted previously but I would recommend having a read of this site:

http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index2.htm#trans

There is a number of sections for each year / type of machine & brand specific as well.  It is truely a bible for pin repair and is understandable for a noob like myself!

[pinball god]

thanks will have a look

[pinball god]

Time for a laugh. I check the coil & seemed ok, check diode looked ok, thought stuff it replace the coil. Never did this but hey its only 2 screws & a bracket and its off. Replaced coil but had real struggle putting the bracket on as the screws don't line up with the holes. When I got them in the plunger would cease. No matter what I did the plunger was either ceased or struggled to return.

Now the stupid part. I remember the tech saying something about cable ties when he did the rebuild (I'll talk to him to confirm this), but I reckon the last fixer found the same problem as me and cable tied the bracket in place. My tech thought he'd do the right thing but must have missed the fact the plunger had a hard time moving.

Put a couple of ties and the fuse won't blow, but I don't like the fix it as the flipper can be a little sluggish at time returning. Might look at elongating the holes on the bracket (what do you think?)

I'm no electronics man but I figure the load on the plunger would have sent the amps spastic...yes-no?

Thanks for all your help guys appreciate it heaps.