Voltage readings on Galaxy are now OK, so the next question!

[braddo]

OK the transformer and wires, plugs etc. under the playfield were hacked/loose all over the place, so it's all been resoldered and test point readings are fine. Overjoyed

Push the start button, the machine fires into game mode, the sound starts, the 'glass relay switch' on the solenoid driver board clicks, but, the ball does not shoot out, the solenoid does not kick.

Any ideas on where to go from here?? Solenoid Driver board??? Thanks.

[Pinball Fixers]

You will need to be a bit more specific...

Measure each if the test points with the black multimeter lead permanently attached to ground.
TP4 is the only AC voltage, the rest are DC.

Let us know what readings you are getting on each Test Point on the Rectifier board, and we'll work it out from there.

[Rod71]

Which test point are you referring to?.  For example the feature lights voltage will fluctuate during attract mode.  But if you start a game and then test it when there are a few lamps on and they are static, the voltage will look stable.

[braddo]

OK no problems. Give me some time i'll have to write all this out).

Edit - After a quick word with my bro he said the readings from the test points are half the readings from the connector plugs (excuse my terminology), so he reckons power is getting lost either with crappy pins, solder etc. He's going to resolder and change/clean the plugs/pins etc. i'll let you guys know what happens.

[braddo]

OK the transformer and wires, plugs etc. under the playfield were hacked/loose all over the place, so it's all been resoldered and test point readings are fine.

Push the start button, the machine fires into game mode, the sound starts, the 'glass relay switch' on the solenoid driver board clicks, but, the ball does not shoot out, the solenoid does not kick.

Any ideas on where to go from here?? Solenoid Driver board??? Thanks.

[Strangeways]

Go in to "test mode" and check each solenoid. Could be a TIP120/102 on the SD board. Solenoid Voltage +43 Volts will be on the SD board as the Back glass GI "flicker" is run from the SD.

[braddo]

Yep Nino i'll run the test tomorrow. I should also add that the targets don't reset either when the start button is pushed, don't know if that info helps??

But anyway thanks a million I'll keep progress posted, I'm feeling good about this.

[Strangeways]

Yep Nino i'll run the test tomorrow. I should also add that the targets don't reset either when the start button is pushed, don't know if that info helps??

But anyway thanks a million I'll keep progress posted, I'm feeling good about this.

Could be a pre-diver if some work and some don't. Either way - should be an easy fix

[braddo]

Ok ok ok. Back into it today, and its playing up again, so can't test solenoids yet.

Back to the transformer board, the voltage from fuse 1 is fine, but on the other side of bridge rectifier 1, there is no voltage to test point 1. I'm going to replace the bridge rectifier, but, would this cause the problem i have with the Galaxy (rectifier 1 has a low reading - 600kohms).

How significant is this bridge rectifier?

Hope i make sense , but I'm learning.

[Homepin]

Well you are on the right track! You absolutely MUST make sure all of your power supply rails are solid and accurate or you will never have any chance of sorting the rest out.

[Strangeways]

Replace all Three BRs, and check the fuse holders (mandatory)

Replace the connectors (J1 - J3) and the pins in the connector housings.

[braddo]

OK guys thanks! I browsed through Ninos Galaxy restore and its got some good stuff there.

I'll keep you guys updated......

[Rod71]

Yep Nino i'll run the test tomorrow. I should also add that the targets don't reset either when the start button is pushed, don't know if that info helps??

But anyway thanks a million I'll keep progress posted, I'm feeling good about this.

Brad

I'd be running a switch test as well.

Remove the ball from the outhole, and when you press the white coin door test button once more after solenoid test, you'll see a flashing number in the credit display. "0" means everything is good with no stuck switches.

If it shows any other number besides zero, it means there's a stuck switch and every switch is assigned a number.  Once the stuck switch has been cleared up it will either display zero or the next highest number if there is another stuck switch.

Could explain your drop targets not working if they kick up in solenoid test, but not at the start of a game.

[Strangeways]

OK guys thanks! I browsed through Ninos Galaxy restore and its got some good stuff there.

I'll keep you guys updated......

From memory I replaced the pre driver as I had a few solenoids that were intermittent. Glad you found the thread and found it helpful 

[braddo]

Alright the power supply board has new bridge rectifiers, new plugs and pins, my brother spent a few hours yesterday working on it and cleaning it up (it was hacked and bodged up BIG TIME). After 3 months of the machine just sitting there, it now WORKS. Awesome. I can play it.
A few small issues to deal with, sling solenoid is a bit out of control, but it plays and no major issues. Going to replace dead bulbs and run tests and basically set it up.

Quick question - the bridge rectifiers are 6 amp 400v. I will put different ones in but for now will these get too hot and cause heat damage to the board?

Have to thank you guys for the help, I'm stoked. I have a new machine to play.

Now just need to do a bit of work on the Flash and hopefully my 3 machines will be working, at the same time!!
It's never happened before how cool will that be.