Playboy Pinball Cabinet (Preparing to Paint)

[Pinballrocks]

 Hi All, My stencils have arrived & I am now trying to hunt down a paint supplier. Have been to 3 places including bunnings & they cant decode the USA's paint formula.

(NOTE: The stencils are of high quality so if anyone is looking for a cheap set of Playboy stencils i will put them on
ebay with a low starting price.)

Does anyone know where i am able to get the right type of oil base paint & the original Playboy paint colour match?
 . Any feedback on this would be appreciated.

Cheers Paul.

[Retropin]

If i can get my hands on a PB ill give you the codes.. In USA they use the MUNSEN paint system... as far as i know this is the only country to still use this... the codes mean absolutely stuff all to anyone else in the world!

[Pinballrocks]

 

Yeah, its crazy that the USA are the only ones using this sytem of paint colour coding.

Thanks mate. hope to hear from you soon.

[FirePower]

Not sure where you got your stencils, but

http://www.pinballpal.com/colors/

has a variety of colour codes in different formats for Playboy about half way down the page - maybe it's this info you have and can't make sense off?

[Pinballrocks]

 
Yep, thats the one.
When i took the info to a few local paint shops they had no idea what they were looking at.
Im hoping someone has already been through a playboy restoration & has done the ground work on this.

[Retropin]

Why they cant make sense of this is beyond me...


ColorCue/EasyRGB paint info:
Purple: 163 49 80
White: 235 233 229

Translated... PURPLE: 163 parts RED... 49 parts GREEN.... 80 parts BLUE... these are RGB colours and so translated to a LIGHT source colour, but they are essentially TRUE RED, TRUE BLUE and TRUE GREEN ( all mid tones)

The white is translated to white LIGHT colour ( RED, BLUE GREEN  make white in light spectrum) - fact that they are pretty much ALL equal parts suggests a TRUE white, not off white

[Pinballrocks]

 I have to agree with you.
 I'm no expert but after viewing your explanation even i can understand the concept.
 I guess i will have to keep searching until i can find someone who can actually mix & supply the paint i need.

[Boots]

I have to agree with you.
 I'm no expert but after viewing your explanation even i can understand the concept.
 I guess i will have to keep searching until i can find someone who can actually mix & supply the paint i need.

Hi
Why wouldn't you use automotive acrylic lacquer paint?
Enamel over-spray floats wet in the air and ends up over everything in your shed, and up your nose if you don't have a very good respirator.
Acrylic lacquer gives a lot less over-spray and it drys quicker than enamel(any over-spray dries in the air), most automotive paint supply shops will be able to match the paint to any spec.
You could even take in samples of the original paint for them to match to (places that are normally hidden and not exposed to any fading light).
Boots

[Pinballrocks]

 It looks like i will be using Auto acrylic as this was a very close match to the original.

 Cheers Boots.

[Boots]

No Worries glad to be of help.
Have you prepared the cabinet yet?
I like to use Solver Maxi PSU, it sticks to any paint or surface and gives you a good base to work with, you don't even have to remove all traces of the old paint if you don't want to.
Give the cab a good sand with 80 grit paper then give it 2 coats of PSU, fill any large imperfections with body filler (bog) and any small imperfections with automotive knife putty (available from Supa cheap Auto or others)
Knife putty is basically very thick auto undercoat and will feather out much better than body filler (which tends to leave a line around filled area)
After your happy with the filling, sand the cab till its smooth and give it another 2 coats of PSU and sand with 150 then 260 grit before painting the colour.
Automotive spray paint will go straight onto the PSU and if you use a foam roller for your undercoating you wont have too much sanding before finishing.
The finish I got with my Solar Ride looks just like the original would have when new, I was very happy with it.

Cheers
Boots

[Strangeways]

Geez thats a good job, Boots - Do you have the restore documented ?

[Boots]

Geez thats a good job, Boots - Do you have the restore documented ?

Hmm
I am a bit slack when it comes to that sort of thing, I just get carried away with doing the job and forget to take photos.
It probably took me about 4-5 months to clean up the machine, working on it when I had spare time. I made the spray templates by tracing a photo of the side of the machine in Autocad, then printed it full size and glued it to 4mm mdf.
I then jigsawed out the outline and filed it smooth and straight with overlaps between the black and red. The playfield was pretty good once I removed the old mylar and only needed some touchups around the pop-bumpers. All new parts on the playfield from PBR. Electronically it is in very good shape and apart from cleaning the connectors I didn't have to intially do much. Later on I had to do some work on the power supply (caps and grounding).

Boots

[deadlydave]

Great work Boots, really like the use of yellow on the HeadBox as opposed to the original pink, looks heaps better 

[Boots]

Great work Boots, really like the use of yellow on the HeadBox as opposed to the original pink, looks heaps better 

Thanks
Although its not a 100% original look, I just didn't like the pink door frame, there is already enough pink on the backglass and I thought the yellow gave it a better contrast.

[Retropin]

LOL- was a BLUE one on Ebay not long back... took me a few seconds to work out why it looked bloody odd!