Terminator 2 playfield resto - Part II

[wonder]

I can understand the mylar twisting / tearing with over tightening posts.  Each one was checked when done up and only 'nipped
' a bit beyond finger tight.

Maybe try and hold the post with some pliers before you tighten the bolt, as it may stop the twisting effect on the mylar.

[pinball god]

Marty, I tried to quickly find your initial thread on AA but without success. You really got me considering very hard following your path. But I want to prepare myself as much as possible. You used the heat method. What did you used to remove the glue from the playfield and did you squirt it under the mylar? Also what did you use to finally clean the playfield with, I read one article using napthane or something. Just want to get all the tooling and chemicals sourced and ready before kicking arse. Thanks

[Strangeways]

Marty, I tried to quickly find your initial thread on AA but without success. You really got me considering very hard following your path. But I want to prepare myself as much as possible. You used the heat method. What did you used to remove the glue from the playfield and did you squirt it under the mylar? Also what did you use to finally clean the playfield with, I read one article using napthane or something. Just want to get all the tooling and chemicals sourced and ready before kicking arse. Thanks

Naphtha is Shellite from Bunnings - Cheap but STINKY (like me ).

The "hair Dryer" method is best, no real need to squirt anything under the playfield. You might find a few restore threads here covering it, but the best advise I can give is for you to TAKE YOUR TIME, and try a test section first.

[PinKong]

Mate, what a great second attempt, that looks sensational.
I haven't been here for a while and was only thinking last week its time to strip my T2 and get stuck it into.(Was thinking about selling mine too but played a few games and can't part with it)
Your work is very inspiring to say the least 
I have a small amount of insert cracking compared to what you have been through and your thread will make it a hell of a lot easier to deal with mine.
The decals you applied look factory fitted a real credit to your workmanship, I think I drank 4 beers ohhing and aghing over this thread.
Well done and thankyou for documenting it so well!
Can't wait to get stuck into mine now.

[MartyJ]

Marty, I tried to quickly find your initial thread on AA but without success. You really got me considering very hard following your path. But I want to prepare myself as much as possible. You used the heat method. What did you used to remove the glue from the playfield and did you squirt it under the mylar? Also what did you use to finally clean the playfield with, I read one article using napthane or something. Just want to get all the tooling and chemicals sourced and ready before kicking arse. Thanks

The first mylar removal was done with the hair dryer.  Basically I carefully lifted an edge of the mylar with a finger and gently heated both the top and underside of the mylar.  When you find the 'sweet spot' it will generally peel away with the slightest of pressure - almost nothing except holding it.  The second lot was done exactly the same, except I was given a Ryobi heat gun for xmas, as the lovely was getting upset I kept using her good hairdryer!.  The Ryobi one is good as there are different attachments to focus the heat, as well as temp is more adjustable, however a hairdryer will do just fine.  It will look pretty bad once you remove the mylar, but as Nino suggested Shellite is fantastic for this.  Just a lot of clean rags and time.  No squirting of liquid onto the playfield.  Just put shellite onto rag, rag onto pf and scrub.  From memory the first one took about 3 hours to clean properly.  The best advise I can give with this, from my experiences, is to (a) get a hold of or build a playfield jig, (b) remove playfield from machine (c) completely strip top side of playfield.  Although it will take a bit more time at the start you will get a much better result.  Shellite is available from Bunnings or the supermarket.  If you want to build a homemade playfield JIG, Nino's is documented and my pirated knockoff version of his is also there too, with measurements and costs (bit over $40.00 from memory). 
Give it a go.  Start stripping the playfield, its always a good start and good to clean all posts, rubbers and furniture too!  My final bit of advise, if you can get an independant person to assist with photographing and bag labelling of playfield parts, this will help.  I generally start out the right way, then get focused and forget to take pictures.  Photos, more photos and more photos from every angle, of every part.  Will make the rebuild a lot easier.

Mate, what a great second attempt, that looks sensational.
I haven't been here for a while and was only thinking last week its time to strip my T2 and get stuck it into.(Was thinking about selling mine too but played a few games and can't part with it)
Your work is very inspiring to say the least 
I have a small amount of insert cracking compared to what you have been through and your thread will make it a hell of a lot easier to deal with mine.
The decals you applied look factory fitted a real credit to your workmanship, I think I drank 4 beers ohhing and aghing over this thread.
Well done and thankyou for documenting it so well!
Can't wait to get stuck into mine now.

Wow,  thankyou.  This site and the guys here continually raise the bar when it comes to restores.  I'm looking forward to seeing another T2 thread!

[pinball god]

Thnaks Nino & Marty for the advice. Looking at my playfield, the mylar seems to be targeted at specific areas ie. the open area portion of the playfield starting at th eshoot again insert all the way to the skull opening. There doesn't seem to be many things populated around these areas. So I'm thinking remove everything bar pop bumpers, canon and the skull. The mylar around the pop bumpers is still quite good. I wasn't even considering of removing the playfield as I'm not going to mylar or clear coat, just wax. T2 probably gets 100 games played per year.

What do you reckon, or is there more reasoning behind removing everything that I haven't considered?

[MartyJ]

Thnaks Nino & Marty for the advice. Looking at my playfield, the mylar seems to be targeted at specific areas ie. the open area portion of the playfield starting at th eshoot again insert all the way to the skull opening. There doesn't seem to be many things populated around these areas. So I'm thinking remove everything bar pop bumpers, canon and the skull. The mylar around the pop bumpers is still quite good. I wasn't even considering of removing the playfield as I'm not going to mylar or clear coat, just wax. T2 probably gets 100 games played per year.

What do you reckon, or is there more reasoning behind removing everything that I haven't considered?

I guess it depends on what you are doing with the playfield.  For me, having done the T2 now twice (officially), I found it much easer to remove parts from playfield whilst having it out on the stand, as well as cleaning it was sooo easy this way (mind you I am a shortarse)..  If the area around pop bumpers is fine, then lower half of playfield it is!  Me personally, I would then remove all plastics, slings, posts etc down to apron and hardware below.  Its probably worth removing all of it and giving it a real good clean.

If you have a stand (or decide to make one) its really very easy removing the playfield.  I've avoided it for a long time thinking it was a massive job, but its not.  As Nino suggested to me, its only about 10 or so plugs to remove from backboard for the whole loom, drop to lower cab and remove - helps with a second person too.  Just label and photograph once you identify which ones to remove.  Just keep in mind not all the posts have t-nuts, so there will be a lot of going under the pf to remove nuts.

However, it can be done insitu no probs.  Just set yourself up so your comfortable and confident!

The plastic area around the skull is a little fiddly.  Easy to break the plastic too (found out the hard way). 

[pinball god]

you're right about the skull area, although I found a better way in doing it. Mind you because I haven't done it for a long time, I've forgotten, so it'll be fiddley and then when its all over, I'll figure the easy way again. Always the case. Although I may have it on video, gotta try and track it down.

I will remove as much as possible, but you are right about worrying to remove the playfield. I figure its a major job, however, I'll have a careful look at it now seeing you reckon it's not that major. Since being on these sites I've done things that scared me shitless before and now they don't bother me.

I think its the "how much will it cost to fix the stuff up" or even worse can it be fixed after I've screwed it up. I've found most things aren't that tragic, parts seem to pop up here and there etc etc.

BTW the shellite, is it used to remove the residule glue? I read people in the US use GOO GONE then do a final clean with napthane/shellite. Did you ise only shellite and elbow grease?

[MartyJ]

you're right about the skull area, although I found a better way in doing it. Mind you because I haven't done it for a long time, I've forgotten, so it'll be fiddley and then when its all over, I'll figure the easy way again. Always the case. Although I may have it on video, gotta try and track it down.

I will remove as much as possible, but you are right about worrying to remove the playfield. I figure its a major job, however, I'll have a careful look at it now seeing you reckon it's not that major. Since being on these sites I've done things that scared me shitless before and now they don't bother me.

I think its the "how much will it cost to fix the stuff up" or even worse can it be fixed after I've screwed it up. I've found most things aren't that tragic, parts seem to pop up here and there etc etc.

BTW the shellite, is it used to remove the residule glue? I read people in the US use GOO GONE then do a final clean with napthane/shellite. Did you ise only shellite and elbow grease?

As long as you don't drop the playfield, or break any underside parts, you will be fine!

Yes, the shellite is used for glue removal.  I've read about the goo gone, but it can affect paint to my knowledge.

Last time I only used shellite and worked very well

[ktm450]

you're right about the skull area, although I found a better way in doing it. Mind you because I haven't done it for a long time, I've forgotten, so it'll be fiddley and then when its all over, I'll figure the easy way again. Always the case. Although I may have it on video, gotta try and track it down.

I will remove as much as possible, but you are right about worrying to remove the playfield. I figure its a major job, however, I'll have a careful look at it now seeing you reckon it's not that major. Since being on these sites I've done things that scared me shitless before and now they don't bother me.

I think its the "how much will it cost to fix the stuff up" or even worse can it be fixed after I've screwed it up. I've found most things aren't that tragic, parts seem to pop up here and there etc etc.

BTW the shellite, is it used to remove the residule glue? I read people in the US use GOO GONE then do a final clean with napthane/shellite. Did you ise only shellite and elbow grease?

Goo gone can eat into the paintwork if let on for too long, some people apparently use it without any dramas, but shellite works fine, is cheaper, and no risk.

[pinball god]

Thanks KTM its always good to be reassured that using a product is ok. Thanks to Marty looks like I'm gonna have a go. Will try to track down the jig specs

[Strangeways]

Always TRY with the product that is less aggressive.

Use the shellite in a well ventilated area, and use a desklamp, shining on an angle where you can see where you need to rub the residue off.

Goof Off is aggressive, and is a last resort for me.

[pinball god]

Always TRY with the product that is less aggressive.

Use the shellite in a well ventilated area, and use a desklamp, shining on an angle where you can see where you need to rub the residue off.

Goof Off is aggressive, and is a last resort for me.

Thanks for the good advice Nino

[MartyJ]

Always TRY with the product that is less aggressive.

Use the shellite in a well ventilated area, and use a desklamp, shining on an angle where you can see where you need to rub the residue off.

Goof Off is aggressive, and is a last resort for me.

Thanks for the good advice Nino

Well, PG sounds like your armed and ready to go!  I hope to see a new resto thread started soon!

[Strangeways]

Yea... Get on with it !

 

After all, You are the God of Pinball