GI problem with the T2

[pinball god]

I'll agree and say it's a pain when you've got to crimp 2 thicker wires into the one terminal.
What i do is use the molex trifurcon crimp pins , you then get the 2 wires into the pin and do the first crimp.
I then apply a tiny bit of flux and put some solder onto the crimp i've just done to hold the wires firmly in there , then i do the second crimp over the insulated parts of the wire.
I've found that if you don't put the solder on the first crimp then when you do the second crimp the wires pull out of the first.

Have patience ,take your time and you'll get it done no worries

And may the force be with me 

thanks mate I'll give it a try. I have to do the same on the TZ connector to the 10 opto pcb. I'm getting weird switch matrix on row 7 when activating the clock target a lot. If I wiggle the plug a get bogus activations or row 7 lighting up. I panicked  thinking the cpu was stuffed again but I'll do the connector first to get that from the equation. Do you agree??? 

[Skybeaux]

Also check the opto board for cracked solder joints on the connector.
If you wiggling it and stuff is happening then there's something to look at.

[beaky]

Just a helpful tip, if you use flux use a non corrosive 'no clean' flux and a high quality resin core solder .
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NS3036&keywords=flux&form=KEYWORD

some gel type fluxes are very corrosive and after a year or 2 will eat there way through the crimp contact and with the help of some heat, seep down the pin header onto the board and cause corrosion damage on all items involved.

What makes it worse is that some gel fluxes are conductive and if they seep across 2 different power circuits it can cause an arc or leakage form one circuit to another. I have seen this happen in many extra low voltage circuit (25 volts RMS or less)

I always solder the replacement crimp connectors on high current applications and often use a non corrosive non clean flux,

I mean no disrespect to anyone here, and i am assuming they are referring to a non corrosive non conductive flux but I just would like to help those of you who didn't know about the difference in properties in different brands and types of flux.

Another thing I would like to point out is that the majority of tin plated headers and crimp connectors that are used on pinball machine have a maximum life of 25 cycles (I.E after the header and pin has been plugged in and removed 25 times as far as the manufactures are concerned it needs to be replaced). This is not much of a problem on low current circuits like switch rows and columns, but with high current circuits like G.I. circuits you may start having problems.

[Skybeaux]

Just a helpful tip, if you use flux use a non corrosive 'no clean' flux and a high quality resin core solder .
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NS3036&keywords=flux&form=KEYWORD

some gel type fluxes are very corrosive and after a year or 2 will eat there way through the crimp contact and with the help of some heat, seep down the pin header onto the board and cause corrosion damage on all items involved.

What makes it worse is that some gel fluxes are conductive and if they seep across 2 different power circuits it can cause an arc or leakage form one circuit to another. I have seen this happen in many extra low voltage circuit (25 volts RMS or less)

I always solder the replacement crimp connectors on high current applications and often use a non corrosive non clean flux,

I mean no disrespect to anyone here, and i am assuming they are referring to a non corrosive non conductive flux but I just would like to help those of you who didn't know about the difference in properties in different brands and types of flux.

Another thing I would like to point out is that the majority of tin plated headers and crimp connectors that are used on pinball machine have a maximum life of 25 cycles (I.E after the header and pin has been plugged in and removed 25 times as far as the manufactures are concerned it needs to be replaced). This is not much of a problem on low current circuits like switch rows and columns, but with high current circuits like G.I. circuits you may start having problems.

I know the difference between fluxes , i've been repairing Pinball boards for many years and i only ever use Kester non corrosive ,non-conductive flux.....but  your in-depth explanation may be helpful to others.

[beaky]

I was sure you new your stuff Ken, And yes I do waffle on some times 

[pinball god]

I didn't so will take this into account.

so I'll be heading to jaycar before I attempt anything. Thanks for the tip

[pinball god]

Also check the opto board for cracked solder joints on the connector.
If you wiggling it and stuff is happening then there's something to look at.

the opto is the new replacement I got when I had all the problems. Do you think there's a high probability that could be the problem or should I do the conenctor first. The connector obviously will be more time consuming that the opto fix (I hope) 

[tura67]

I had a similar same problem on my T2 last week, left GI went first, right GI soon after.

I changed the connectors J120/J121/J115 and the problem was solved. Not sure your problem is exactly the same but it sounds like a good idea to start with changing the connectors.

[Skybeaux]

Also check the opto board for cracked solder joints on the connector.
If you wiggling it and stuff is happening then there's something to look at.

the opto is the new replacement I got when I had all the problems. Do you think there's a high probability that could be the problem or should I do the conenctor first. The connector obviously will be more time consuming that the opto fix (I hope) 

If it's a new opto board then you wouldn't think there would be a problem with it , but i'd be still having a good look at the solder joints on it to be sure.
If the joints look ok then maybe the plug is the problem....if your wiggling it and it's doing strange things then there's a problem there somewhere.

[Skybeaux]

I was sure you new your stuff Ken, And yes I do waffle on some times 

It was a vey good explanation that you made , i should have been more clear with the type of flux to use but i guess i just wasn't thinking.
I'll edit my previous post so people don't make any mistakes.

[johnwartjr]

The T2 manual has lots of errors on the GI pinout :)

Try to remember the WPC GI standard pinouts for J120 + J121 (or J105 and J106 on WPC-95)

Pin
    Wire color at J120/J121
1
    Brown
2
    Orange
3
    Yellow (yellow)
4
    Key
5
    Green
6
    Violet
7
    White-Brown
8
    White-Orange
9
    White-Yellow (yellow)
10
    White-Green
11
    White-Violet

[pinball god]

Sorry for prolonging this thread but t2 hates me. Still have string #3 down.

J120 has 1-brown 2-orange 7-wht/brn and 8-wht/orange

J121 as described by John pins 3,5,6,9,10,11

I buzzed all pins on J115,120,121 and they go to their fuses or Transistors Q's
There does not seem to be any pins accidentally soldered together etc. I have repinned and put new connectors on all plugs.

I accidentally miss connected J121 one pin to the left so pin 2 was in connector 3. The lhs globes came on strobing like inserts. So I'm guessing the connector is fine. Put it back properly and the lhs is still dead.

I got 8.2vac on pins 8-11 and 0vac on the rest

I also still have flasher rhs flipper flasher dead as well although it's back glass cousin does flash

I hope this can trigger someone's thoughts as to a possible solution. I'm good at removing driver pcb's now

[rd350ypvs]

Pins 1 - 6 are return, pins 7-11 are power for the strings (on my T2 anyway lol)

either J120 or J121 can be used as they are identical. 8.3V seems a bit high considering it shouldn't normally be any higher than 7. Check backwards from the connectors, through fuses, triacs, etc etc and compare to known values. If that checks out looks like a wire break in the playfield



edit

Just noticed the date of last reply so if already fixed no worries lol