Author Topic: Who has a T2 switch matrix image? (Read 491 times)

Wotto · « **on:** October 07, 2012, 08:01:11 PM »

Hi all

A mates T2 has some switches not working - 8 of them of course ( column/row? )

So I am wondering of anyone has the schematics and can check if all of these switches sit on the same row or column.

Extreme left hole (ball lock)
The 2 switches at the top of the left 'orbit' shot
The top hole above the rollover lanes ( ball lock )
The 3 rollover lanes
The hole under the T2 head.

Appreciate any info.

Wotto

MartyJ · « **Reply #1 on:** October 07, 2012, 09:18:07 PM »

Attached pic

MartyJ · « **Reply #2 on:** October 07, 2012, 09:23:50 PM »

Column 5? Check the green/black from each switch for continuity...

Otherwise might be on the CPU board. I generally start at the CPU board with the jumper wire / diode trick to see if its U20.

Wotto · « **Reply #3 on:** October 07, 2012, 09:42:00 PM »

Thanks Marty - super quick and super helpful
Will check this week for the guy

Appreciate the image

Wotto

Wotto · « **Reply #4 on:** October 08, 2012, 10:00:11 PM »

Hi all

OK I have physically inspected/ checked all the switches that sit in column 5 - nothing obvious is shorting at any switch.

I did the test where you hook a test wire from Pin 1 on 209 and touch all the pins on 208 - column 5, the suspect column, failed to appear ( all the others did show up as 11,21,31,41,61 & 71 ) From reading the repair guide it pretty much indicates that this means ULN2803 at U20 is blown - same as what I did to my own CFTBL about a year ago.

I have a chip and my mate has a mate who can solder the new ULN2803 in.

What I want to ask is BEFORE I plug the repaired board back in and turn the game on is there ANYTHING else I need to look for before I do so.....or do I just'go for it'

I have read a thread at Pinside where a guy checked all this and still had issues and his ULN2803 that was blowing was due to a small piece of metal shorting near the left flipper coil ( as in nothing to do with his row/ column that was out ).

I did find ( and fix ) 2 x broken coil wires snapped off on this T2, one at a pop bumper and one at the VUK........I am unsure if one of those COULD have touched something in the past and blown this chip (?) The other thing I found was that one of the wires from the remote battery holder had come off the CPU board, could THAT have 'brushed' the chip on the way down and caused this

pinball god · « **Reply #5 on:** October 09, 2012, 11:35:41 AM »

I may not be adding anything to the thread, but what you just said could have happened to blow the chip. I blew a chip when doing a flipper rebuild and tocuh something with a screw driver and noticed a spark from the corner of my eye. Chances are that you won't blow the chip but it may not hurt to just do a scan of the playfield for anything floating around that could cause a short.

good luck all the same

Inkochnito · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2012, 06:09:31 AM »

There is a tech chart on my website for Terminator 2.
Scroll down on the left side to Tech Charts.

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

Strangeways · « **Reply #7 on:** October 10, 2012, 10:38:25 AM »

I would solder a socket on the board so that you don't have to resolder in the future.

Wotto · « **Reply #8 on:** October 10, 2012, 08:29:12 PM »

Ok - guy couldnt socket this, so it is hard soldered in place

Did the wire test before connecting the switch connectors
Column 51 is there, all the switches that were dead work ( I checked them AFTER what I am about to tell you )

Now, Column 41 is dead FFS

- this row was PERFECTLY FINE the other night.
SURELY this must just be a faulty ( new ) chip - by co-incidence?
I mean what else could it be.

Please bear in mind that I discovered 41 is dead BEFORE we put ANY switch connectors back on - I saw it in the wire test and couldnt friggin believe it.

Thoughts?

dj10555 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 10, 2012, 09:17:03 PM »

Hi Wotto,
Could be a couple if things.
U20 Chip could be faulty
One of the tracks to the chip may have a break
Sometimes there is another chip which drives U20 which goes faulty when U20 blows.

Regards Derek

beaky · « **Reply #10 on:** October 11, 2012, 12:32:56 AM »

either you have a broken track, damaged solder through (make sure you solder the chip on the top tracks and bottom) or the chip has been damaged due to over heating when soldered.

when ever you replace an I.C. you should socket it.

you will need to take the board out of the machine and use a multi meter to beep out all the traces from every pin on the I.C. that you have installed to what ever component the trace goes to. (most of the traces from pins 1 to 9 go to U14 and most of the traces from pins 10 to 18 go to bottom of the resistors below U20)

Wotto · « **Reply #11 on:** October 11, 2012, 08:36:57 AM »

Thanks Beaky and Derek - will persist and get this done.
Appreciate the extra info.

pinball god · « **Reply #12 on:** October 11, 2012, 02:53:34 PM »

Hey mate, another option is to send it to Ken or the like. I tried my hand at pcb's and have come to the conclusion stay away. I generally will stuff tracks as I don't have good solder removal gear.

Wotto · « **Reply #13 on:** October 11, 2012, 04:17:34 PM »

Hi PG

I am not soldering the board , I would never attempt that.
The game owners mate is a bloke that builds PC's from scratch - including building circuit boards.......so I am assuming the guy knows what he is doing

I have already PM'd someone "similar to Ken"

to see if they want to do the board IF this other guy ISNT doing the right thing.

pinball god · « **Reply #14 on:** October 11, 2012, 10:14:23 PM »

Think that's a wise move and you'll have the game working in much quicker time I'm guessing. Good luck with it mate

Btw Ken in particular has had a great laugh at some of my soldering handy work in the past.

Quote from: Wotto on October 11, 2012, 04:17:34 PM

Hi PG

I am not soldering the board , I would never attempt that.
The game owners mate is a bloke that builds PC's from scratch - including building circuit boards.......so I am assuming the guy knows what he is doing

I have already PM'd someone "similar to Ken" to see if they want to do the board IF this other guy ISNT doing the right thing.

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