The Aussie Pinball Arcade
Aussie Pinball Forums => Technical Matters => Pinball Repairs / Problems & Assistance => Topic started by: felixthadog on March 25, 2009, 09:56:05 AM
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I checked my TZ last night and found that the knocker assembly in the backbox doesn't work. I went through all the Tests and Adjustments but could not find any reference to the knocker assembly. I set the Match level to 50% and played a few games until I got a Match, but the knocker didn't fire. I also ran the ball around the playfield manually until a Replay was awarded, but again the knocker didn't fire.
Here is a pic of the inside of the backbox, you can see the knocker assembly in the top left of the pic:
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t223/felixthadog/Twilight%20Zone/Twilight_Zone_019.jpg)
Here is the Solenoid table from the manual showing the connections for the Knocker:
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t223/felixthadog/Twilight%20Zone/Twilight_Zone_Solenoid_Table.jpg)
I have checked the connections to J130 and J107 on the Driver board and they seem OK.
Here is the Driver Board pic from the manual showing the J130 and J107 connections that the Knocker should be wired up to:
(http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t223/felixthadog/Twilight%20Zone/Twilight_Zone_Driver_Board.jpg)
It all seems fine to me, yet the knocker is not working. Is there a way to manually get the knocker to fire, for example by applying power to it somehow? !@# Is there a way of testing that the wiring to the Driver board is OK? !@#
Matthew
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Gday Matthew .. I assume these newer games are the same as the old EM's .. in which case try a 9V battery across the coil .. probably best to disconnect it from the game 1st ?
Rgds
Dave
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Gday Matthew .. I assume these newer games are the same as the old EM's .. in which case try a 9V battery across the coil .. probably best to disconnect it from the game 1st ?
Rgds
Dave
Thanks for the suggestion Dave, however I am a total n00b so I will need a little more detail than that !@) How do I try a 9V battery across the coil? Do I run some wires from the coil to the terminals on a 9V battery? And how do I disconnect the coil? !@#
Matthew
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Start off by checking that the plunger can move freely.
Check the connectors are not tarnished
Check that the wire is pushed in on the respective IDC connectors (J130 / J107)
Check Q68 visually - does it look ok ?
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Ah .. the Guru has spoken .. I'll leave you in his more than capeable hands ^^^
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Start off by checking that the plunger can move freely.
Check the connectors are not tarnished
Check that the wire is pushed in on the respective IDC connectors (J130 / J107)
Check Q68 visually - does it look ok ?
1) The plunger moves freely, no resistance at all in the movement up and down.
2) Do you mean the connectors on the Driver board or the connector near the coil? And by tarnished, do you mean burnt or just discoloured?
3) I reseated the connectors on the Driver board and made sure they were pushed in fully.
4) What is Q68?
Matthew
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Matt -
The IDC connectors on the Driver board are notorious for developing faults over time. Moreso for high current applications like General Illumination, but on the occasion, even switch matrix IDC connectors can develop issues.
If you look on the two connectors you have highlighted, you will see the wires are "prized" into the IDC connector housing (J130/J107). The wires can sometimes be prized lose. I find that it if you push in the wires with a fine screwdriver, the connection between the wire and the connector pin are re established. Visually, you can sometimes see the wire in question raised to a higher level than the rest of the wires.
So if you follow my dribble - push in the wire "Pin8" on J130 and "Pin3" on J107. This will eliminate the common fault of an IDC connector issue.
Do you know how to use a multimeter ?
You could check continuity between the wires on the coil and J130 / J107
You could disconnect the coil and measure the resistance of the coil.
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Matt -
The IDC connectors on the Driver board are notorious for developing faults over time. Moreso for high current applications like General Illumination, but on the occasion, even switch matrix IDC connectors can develop issues.
If you look on the two connectors you have highlighted, you will see the wires are "prized" into the IDC connector housing (J130/J107). The wires can sometimes be prized lose. I find that it if you push in the wires with a fine screwdriver, the connection between the wire and the connector pin are re established. Visually, you can sometimes see the wire in question raised to a higher level than the rest of the wires.
So if you follow my dribble - push in the wire "Pin8" on J130 and "Pin3" on J107. This will eliminate the common fault of an IDC connector issue.
Do you know how to use a multimeter ?
You could check continuity between the wires on the coil and J130 / J107
You could disconnect the coil and measure the resistance of the coil.
Thanks Nino, I will take a closer look at those IDC connectors tonight. As for a multimeter, I have one but I don't know how to use it !@) What do I need to set the multimeter to, what do I put the red and black points on, and what should I expect to see? !@#
Matthew
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To check the coil - Set the MM to OHMS, and place the probe on each lug of the coil. You should see around 4 Ohms. Remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil) - also check the wires are soldered on the coil.
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To check the coil - Set the MM to OHMS, and place the probe on each lug of the coil. You should see around 4 Ohms. Remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil) - also check the wires are soldered on the coil.
1) On my MM, Ohms has 5 settings (2000K, 200K, 20K, 2000, 200). Which setting do I use? !@#
2) Do I perform the first test with the machine switched on and the coil connected? !@#
3) After I remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil), do I need to test using the MM again? If so, what value should I expect? Machine switched off or on? !@#
Matthew
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Gday Matthew ..
Because you are looking for low ohms value (3 -4 ohms) .. set meter to 200 ohms. Machine should be switched off when taking readings.. and yes, test again after disconnecting the coil (if the value is higher than 3 - 4 ohms with coil connected)..
Also, with the coil disconnected, put the 9V battery across the coil lugs (no wires needed .. the distance between the battery terminals and the coils lugs is pretty much the same) .. this will fire the coil.. also. check that both the coil windings are still soldered to the lugs ..
To check the coil - Set the MM to OHMS, and place the probe on each lug of the coil. You should see around 4 Ohms. Remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil) - also check the wires are soldered on the coil.
1) On my MM, Ohms has 5 settings (2000K, 200K, 20K, 2000, 200). Which setting do I use? !@#
2) Do I perform the first test with the machine switched on and the coil connected? !@#
3) After I remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil), do I need to test using the MM again? If so, what value should I expect? Machine switched off or on? !@#
Matthew
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Gday Matthew ..
Because you are looking for low ohms value (3 -4 ohms) .. set meter to 200 ohms. Machine should be switched off when taking readings.. and yes, test again after disconnecting the coil (if the value is higher than 3 - 4 ohms with coil connected)..
Also, with the coil disconnected, put the 9V battery across the coil lugs (no wires needed .. the distance between the battery terminals and the coils lugs is pretty much the same) .. this will fire the coil.. also. check that both the coil windings are still soldered to the lugs ..
To check the coil - Set the MM to OHMS, and place the probe on each lug of the coil. You should see around 4 Ohms. Remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil) - also check the wires are soldered on the coil.
1) On my MM, Ohms has 5 settings (2000K, 200K, 20K, 2000, 200). Which setting do I use? !@#
2) Do I perform the first test with the machine switched on and the coil connected? !@#
3) After I remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil), do I need to test using the MM again? If so, what value should I expect? Machine switched off or on? !@#
Matthew
Sorry for all the questions, but I have to make sure I am 100% certain in what I am doing.
- Does the machine need to be switched off at the mains before testing with the MM?
- When you say "with the coil disconnected", do you mean that the 2 connectors (male & female) near the coil should just be separated so that the coil is no longer connected to the driver board?
- You stated that I should be looking for low ohms (3-4 ohms) when the coil is connected, what does it mean if I get a higher or lower reading? If the reading is 3-4 ohms with the coil connected, do I still need to run the test with the coil disconnected? If so, what reading should I be looking for when the coil is disconnected?
Matthew
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No probs with the questions Matthew .. we all started at the beginning at some time.
1. Turn machine off at the mains
2. Disconnect the coil from the driver board
3. Measure with the meter .. if the coil is good you should read around 3 - 4 ohms ..
Gday Matthew ..
Because you are looking for low ohms value (3 -4 ohms) .. set meter to 200 ohms. Machine should be switched off when taking readings.. and yes, test again after disconnecting the coil (if the value is higher than 3 - 4 ohms with coil connected)..
Also, with the coil disconnected, put the 9V battery across the coil lugs (no wires needed .. the distance between the battery terminals and the coils lugs is pretty much the same) .. this will fire the coil.. also. check that both the coil windings are still soldered to the lugs ..
To check the coil - Set the MM to OHMS, and place the probe on each lug of the coil. You should see around 4 Ohms. Remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil) - also check the wires are soldered on the coil.
1) On my MM, Ohms has 5 settings (2000K, 200K, 20K, 2000, 200). Which setting do I use? !@#
2) Do I perform the first test with the machine switched on and the coil connected? !@#
3) After I remove the connector to the coil (nearest the coil), do I need to test using the MM again? If so, what value should I expect? Machine switched off or on? !@#
Matthew
Sorry for all the questions, but I have to make sure I am 100% certain in what I am doing.
- Does the machine need to be switched off at the mains before testing with the MM?
- When you say "with the coil disconnected", do you mean that the 2 connectors (male & female) near the coil should just be separated so that the coil is no longer connected to the driver board?
- You stated that I should be looking for low ohms (3-4 ohms) when the coil is connected, what does it mean if I get a higher or lower reading? If the reading is 3-4 ohms with the coil connected, do I still need to run the test with the coil disconnected? If so, what reading should I be looking for when the coil is disconnected?
Matthew
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Mate, where do you live? I would be happy to come over for an hour or so after basketball (which finishes around 8:30pm). Sounds like you need some hands-on assistance. And do you have a soldering iron?
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Do the coil test with the machine off and the coil disconnected ^^^
I don't think there is a diode across that coil - If you get no reading, try swapping the red lead with the black lead at the coil.
If you get a reading of zero ohms, you have a shorted coil (unlikely) - if you get no reading, then the coil is "open" - more likely.
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Mate, where do you live? I would be happy to come over for an hour or so after basketball (which finishes around 8:30pm). Sounds like you need some hands-on assistance. And do you have a soldering iron?
Thanks for the offer Andrew, but I will attempt to test the coil myself first. If I can't figure out what is going on, and can't explain what is happening, I might need your expertise soon enough.
Matthew
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OK Matthew, no problem.
Once you've done the test Nino suggested you then need to test that voltage is getting to the coil.
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OK Matthew, no problem.
Once you've done the test Nino suggested you then need to test that voltage is getting to the coil.
Ummmmmm ...... how? !@)
Matthew
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OK Matthew, no problem.
Once you've done the test Nino suggested you then need to test that voltage is getting to the coil.
Ummmmmm ...... how? !@)
Matthew
One step at a time Mate - ^^^
Lets check the connectors and the coil itself first.
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OK Matthew, no problem.
Once you've done the test Nino suggested you then need to test that voltage is getting to the coil.
Ummmmmm ...... how? !@)
Matthew
One step at a time Mate - ^^^
Lets check the connectors and the coil itself first.
OK, here are the results:
I switched the machine off and disconnected the coil. I then connected a 9V battery to the two terminals on the coil and the kicker fired. I then set my MM to ohms (200) and put one probe on each terminal on the coil, and it displayed 4.4 on the MM. Is that too high? !@#
I reconnected the coil and then checked the IDC connectors (J107 and J130). They looked OK, so I pushed the wires in with a screwdriver and reseated the connectors. The Q68 thingy looked OK to me too. I set the Match level to 50% and played a few games until a Match was awarded, but the kicker did not fire.
Matthew
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Dont get discouraged -you will solve it eventually-best way to solve these problems is patience and the help of everyone on the forum-this is the best way to learn,believe me -walk away for a while then retry.
Millsy (Still a noobe & still learning)
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Dont get discouraged -you will solve it eventually-best way to solve these problems is patience and the help of everyone on the forum-this is the best way to learn,believe me -walk away for a while then retry.
Millsy (Still a noobe & still learning)
Not discouraged, however I am glad that this problem is not integral to the functioning of the machine. It would just be nice to figure out why it is not working.
Matthew
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Coil is good.
Now you mentioned that you could not find the "Knocker test". This is how you do it.
Open the coin door - Press the "Begin Test" button
Cycle through the options until (use the + and - Buttons) you see the TEST MENU option. Press ENTER Button (Same as test)
Use the + Key to find the SOLENOID TEST. Press ENTER
You can select the "RUN" mode and it will check all the solenoids. The door has to be closed for the voltage to be applied to the coils. It will cycle through all the coils. You are interested in Solenoid 7.
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OK, here are the results:
I switched the machine off and disconnected the coil. I then connected a 9V battery to the two terminals on the coil and the kicker fired. I then set my MM to ohms (200) and put one probe on each terminal on the coil, and it displayed 4.4 on the MM. Is that too high? !@#
I reconnected the coil and then checked the IDC connectors (J107 and J130). They looked OK, so I pushed the wires in with a screwdriver and reseated the connectors. The Q68 thingy looked OK to me too. I set the Match level to 50% and played a few games until a Match was awarded, but the kicker did not fire.
Matthew
OK, what that says to me is that you are not getting voltage to the coil. This is most likely connectors or the driver transistor.
Probably the easiest way to check that the connectors are OK is to put the multimeter back on the 200 ohm setting, and then check that you get a zero reading when you place the probe in one of the connector pins, and the other probe at the exposed end of the wire directly attached to that pin of the connector (ie where it is soldered on to coil if you are checking the coil end, or where it connects to the driver board at the board end). Hopefully that makes sense.
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Coil is good.
Now you mentioned that you could not find the "Knocker test". This is how you do it.
Open the coin door - Press the "Begin Test" button
Cycle through the options until (use the + and - Buttons) you see the TEST MENU option. Press ENTER Button (Same as test)
Use the + Key to find the SOLENOID TEST. Press ENTER
You can select the "RUN" mode and it will check all the solenoids. The door has to be closed for the voltage to be applied to the coils. It will cycle through all the coils. You are interested in Solenoid 7.
There is no Solenoid 7 in the SOLENOID TEST menu, it skips from Solenoid 6 (Gumball Diverter) to Solenoid 8 (Outhole) !@#
Matthew
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OK, here are the results:
I switched the machine off and disconnected the coil. I then connected a 9V battery to the two terminals on the coil and the kicker fired. I then set my MM to ohms (200) and put one probe on each terminal on the coil, and it displayed 4.4 on the MM. Is that too high? !@#
I reconnected the coil and then checked the IDC connectors (J107 and J130). They looked OK, so I pushed the wires in with a screwdriver and reseated the connectors. The Q68 thingy looked OK to me too. I set the Match level to 50% and played a few games until a Match was awarded, but the kicker did not fire.
Matthew
OK, what that says to me is that you are not getting voltage to the coil. This is most likely connectors or the driver transistor.
Probably the easiest way to check that the connectors are OK is to put the multimeter back on the 200 ohm setting, and then check that you get a zero reading when you place the probe in one of the connector pins, and the other probe at the exposed end of the wire directly attached to that pin of the connector (ie where it is soldered on to coil if you are checking the coil end, or where it connects to the driver board at the board end). Hopefully that makes sense.
Could you dumb that down a little bit more, perhaps even in step-by-step instructions?
Unfortunately I can't do any more testing tonight but I will continue testing tomorrow night.
Matthew
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There is no Solenoid 7 in the SOLENOID TEST menu, it skips from Solenoid 6 (Gumball Diverter) to Solenoid 8 (Outhole) !@#
Matthew
OK, here is a better guess - there is a setting in the ROM that says the knocker is not installed. It is adjustment 3.21 - it should be set to Off to utilise the knocker, but is probably set to something else.
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There is no Solenoid 7 in the SOLENOID TEST menu, it skips from Solenoid 6 (Gumball Diverter) to Solenoid 8 (Outhole) !@#
Matthew
OK, here is a better guess - there is a setting in the ROM that says the knocker is not installed. It is adjustment 3.21 - it should be set to Off to utilise the knocker, but is probably set to something else.
This sounded promising, but alas no joy again. There is no adjustment 3.21 in the Adjustments menu !!!
Matthew
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There is no Solenoid 7 in the SOLENOID TEST menu, it skips from Solenoid 6 (Gumball Diverter) to Solenoid 8 (Outhole) !@#
Matthew
OK, here is a better guess - there is a setting in the ROM that says the knocker is not installed. It is adjustment 3.21 - it should be set to Off to utilise the knocker, but is probably set to something else.
This sounded promising, but alas no joy again. There is no adjustment 3.21 in the Adjustments menu !!!
Matthew
JUst to be really clear, their are three adjustment menus; I am talking about item 21 in the third adjustment menu. If this does not exist, does it jump from 19 or 20 to another number (eg 22 or 23)? What is the value at item 10 of the third adjustment menu?
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There is no Solenoid 7 in the SOLENOID TEST menu, it skips from Solenoid 6 (Gumball Diverter) to Solenoid 8 (Outhole) !@#
Matthew
OK, here is a better guess - there is a setting in the ROM that says the knocker is not installed. It is adjustment 3.21 - it should be set to Off to utilise the knocker, but is probably set to something else.
This sounded promising, but alas no joy again. There is no adjustment 3.21 in the Adjustments menu !!!
Matthew
JUst to be really clear, their are three adjustment menus; I am talking about item 21 in the third adjustment menu. If this does not exist, does it jump from 19 or 20 to another number (eg 22 or 23)? What is the value at item 10 of the third adjustment menu?
OK, to be really, really clear:
I went into the A. Adjustments menu and selected A.3 Pricing Adjustments. In the Pricing Adjustments menu, there were the following options:
A.3 01 Game Pricing
A.3 16 Maximum Credits
A.3 17 Free Play
A.3 18 Hide Coin Audits
A.3 19 1 Coin Buy-In
A.3 22 Dollar Bill Slot
A.3 23 Minimum Coin Microseconds
There is no option 3.10 in the Pricing Adjustments menu on my machine.
Matthew
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What version game ROM do you have? I am confused...
Suffice it to say that my guess is that the current ROM does not have the knocker functionality. Anyone else like to comment on whether that is a possibility?
Of course, we could be barking up the wrong tree on this one.
In the interim, is there any chance of you tracing the violet and black wires from the coil back to the driver board, and checking continuity between the coil end and driver end of the wires (with the machine turned off)? (Assuming they are violet and black - that's what the manual said.)
Adjust multimeter to 200 ohms setting.
Place one probe end on the coil end where the violet wire attaches.
Place the other probe end on the driver board where the violet wire attaches.
You should see a zero reading.
Repeat for black wire.
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What version game ROM do you have? I am confused...
Suffice it to say that my guess is that the current ROM does not have the knocker functionality. Anyone else like to comment on whether that is a possibility?
Of course, we could be barking up the wrong tree on this one.
In the interim, is there any chance of you tracing the violet and black wires from the coil back to the driver board, and checking continuity between the coil end and driver end of the wires (with the machine turned off)? (Assuming they are violet and black - that's what the manual said.)
Adjust multimeter to 200 ohms setting.
Place one probe end on the coil end where the violet wire attaches.
Place the other probe end on the driver board where the violet wire attaches.
You should see a zero reading.
Repeat for black wire.
ROM version is LC-4, I have ordered ROM revision 9.4H from Pinbits so perhaps that will solve the problem.
I wasn't sure if I needed to switch the machine off at the mains or not, so I left it on at the mains but turned it off at the switch on the machine. Using the MM (set to ohms at 200), I put a probe on one of the lugs on the coil and the other probe on the wire at J130 on the driver board. The reading on the MM was 0.6. I then put a probe on the other lug on the coil and the other probe on the wire at J107 on the driver board. Again the reading on the MM was 0.6. Given the readings were not zero, does that indicate a problem? !@#
Matthew
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QUICK question:
did the knocker EVER work beforehand ???????????????
(this will help prove the rom version etc).
MM.
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No, close enough I reckon.
Had another thought, and this one is even better than the last one re ROM setting. Check the jumper section; if the machine is jumpered for overseas that may preclude the credit knocker from working. To set it up for US (standard) you need to ensure that W14 through W18 all have jumpers in place.
They are located on the CPU board, just below and slightly to the left of U9 (a large mostly square IC). The jumpers themselves are designated as 0 ohms resistors, that is, a link. If you have no spare jumpers available you may be able to get a way with a bent paper clip (any comments on whether this is OK?).
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No, close enough I reckon.
Had another thought, and this one is even better than the last one re ROM setting. Check the jumper section; if the machine is jumpered for overseas that may preclude the credit knocker from working. To set it up for US (standard) you need to ensure that W14 through W18 all have jumpers in place.
They are located on the CPU board, just below and slightly to the left of U9 (a large mostly square IC). The jumpers themselves are designated as 0 ohms resistors, that is, a link. If you have no spare jumpers available you may be able to get a way with a bent paper clip (any comments on whether this is OK?).
Can you post a picture of what a jumper looks like? !@# I think I am way out of my league now, I think it might be better for the knocker to remain non-functional than it would be for me to start poking around in the backbox. I should be getting the new ROM version soon so I will see if that fixes the problem, hopefully it does.
Cheers,
Matthew
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No, close enough I reckon.
Had another thought, and this one is even better than the last one re ROM setting. Check the jumper section; if the machine is jumpered for overseas that may preclude the credit knocker from working. To set it up for US (standard) you need to ensure that W14 through W18 all have jumpers in place.
They are located on the CPU board, just below and slightly to the left of U9 (a large mostly square IC). The jumpers themselves are designated as 0 ohms resistors, that is, a link. If you have no spare jumpers available you may be able to get a way with a bent paper clip (any comments on whether this is OK?).
Can you post a picture of what a jumper looks like? !@# I think I am way out of my league now, I think it might be better for the knocker to remain non-functional than it would be for me to start poking around in the backbox. I should be getting the new ROM version soon so I will see if that fixes the problem, hopefully it does.
Cheers,
Matthew
It may or may not fix the problem as the jumpers may override certain ROM settings.
I will see if my pins have jumpers and take a photo for you.
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Matt - Do you have a copy of the manual ?
Download it from www.ipdb.org
Look on page 1-40
There's a setting - A-3 .21 - Coin meter units - this bypasses the knocker. Adjustments / Pricing Adjustments / Coin meter units
Set it to "off".
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Matt - Do you have a copy of the manual ?
Download it from www.ipdb.org
Look on page 1-40
There's a setting - A-3 .21 - Coin meter units - this bypasses the knocker. Adjustments / Pricing Adjustments / Coin meter units
Set it to "off".
The problem is that this setting is skipped at the moment - we already tried this one.
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&^&
Oops.. Didn't double check.
So the solenoid is not recognised in the solenoid test, and the A 3 .21 Setting is missing.
Can someone who owns a TZ remove the connector to the Knocker, and test to see if "solenoid 7" or A-3. 21 is present ?
Sounds like an open wire to the coil.
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I'll just dash out and buy a TZ, be back soon.......hehehehe :lol
MM.
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&^&
Oops.. Didn't double check.
So the solenoid is not recognised in the solenoid test, and the A 3 .21 Setting is missing.
Can someone who owns a TZ remove the connector to the Knocker, and test to see if "solenoid 7" or A-3. 21 is present ?
Sounds like an open wire to the coil.
I also believe he has checked continuity between coil and driver board - checks out OK.
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Locate the driver Transistor for the knocker coil, and temporarily joining the 'collector' pin to Ground (0v) will prove the entire connector-pin/wiring from board-to-coil.....
Either this transistor isn't working, or not being activated..... pointing back to the ROM issue again....
MM.
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&^&
Oops.. Didn't double check.
So the solenoid is not recognised in the solenoid test, and the A 3 .21 Setting is missing.
Can someone who owns a TZ remove the connector to the Knocker, and test to see if "solenoid 7" or A-3. 21 is present ?
Sounds like an open wire to the coil.
I also believe he has checked continuity between coil and driver board - checks out OK.
Then it has to be the driver transistor - which I find hard to believe. This coil has to be the least "fired" coil in the game. The fact that the coil test skips "solenoid 7" is a fair indicator that either the ROM / Setup is incorrect, or there the driver transistor is stuffed.
I guess an option is to set the game to factory defaults ?
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Locate the driver Transistor for the knocker coil, and temporarily joining the 'collector' pin to Ground (0v) will prove the entire connector-pin/wiring from board-to-coil.....
Either this transistor isn't working, or not being activated..... pointing back to the ROM issue again....
MM.
My logic says that if the adjustment is not available the knocker functionality has been turned off somehow - either in the ROM itself or via the jumpers.
See attached diagram and (poor) photo of what you are looking for. On the TZ you are looking for W14 through W18, these should be labelled on the circuit board. The jumpers on my Mousin' Around! look like small white resistors, presumably they look similar on your TZ. First question: are all of W14 through W18 present? Second question: if not, are you comfortable enough to solder in a piece of wire if a jumper is missing?
My camera battery is playing up hence I only managed one photo.
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I installed the new Home ROM 9.4H today, hoping it would fix the knocker issue. It didn't. There is still no reference to the knocker in any of the Diagnostic menus ^&^
Matthew
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Ouch! we need another machine to compare against, and see it's rom version/menu's......
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I installed the new Home ROM 9.4H today, hoping it would fix the knocker issue. It didn't. There is still no reference to the knocker in any of the Diagnostic menus ^&^
Matthew
Please take a photo of the circled area on the diagram as per my previous post and attach to your post using the Additional Options link - I am pretty convinced that it is the jumpers.
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I installed the new Home ROM 9.4H today, hoping it would fix the knocker issue. It didn't. There is still no reference to the knocker in any of the Diagnostic menus ^&^
Matthew
Please take a photo of the circled area on the diagram as per my previous post and attach to your post using the Additional Options link - I am pretty convinced that it is the jumpers.
Hi Andrew,
I will take a photo tonight, however I do not understand why "Solenoid 7" is missing from the Test Menu. I would have thought that if the knocker assembly was not working, it would still appear in the Test Menu but not fire during the Run Test mode !@#
Matthew
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I installed the new Home ROM 9.4H today, hoping it would fix the knocker issue. It didn't. There is still no reference to the knocker in any of the Diagnostic menus ^&^
Matthew
Please take a photo of the circled area on the diagram as per my previous post and attach to your post using the Additional Options link - I am pretty convinced that it is the jumpers.
Hi Andrew,
I will take a photo tonight, however I do not understand why "Solenoid 7" is missing from the Test Menu. I would have thought that if the knocker assembly was not working, it would still appear in the Test Menu but not fire during the Run Test mode !@#
Matthew
Well, my theory is that the machine is jumpered for a European country, where the knocker is by default replaced with a coin counter (whether or not this is actually what happens over there I don't know). So if the ROM is being told it is in Europe, it knows that the knocker isn't there and hence doesn't test it.
I am hoping for your sake that my theory is correct!!
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I installed the new Home ROM 9.4H today, hoping it would fix the knocker issue. It didn't. There is still no reference to the knocker in any of the Diagnostic menus ^&^
Matthew
Please take a photo of the circled area on the diagram as per my previous post and attach to your post using the Additional Options link - I am pretty convinced that it is the jumpers.
Hi Andrew,
I will take a photo tonight, however I do not understand why "Solenoid 7" is missing from the Test Menu. I would have thought that if the knocker assembly was not working, it would still appear in the Test Menu but not fire during the Run Test mode !@#
Matthew
Well, my theory is that the machine is jumpered for a European country, where the knocker is by default replaced with a coin counter (whether or not this is actually what happens over there I don't know). So if the ROM is being told it is in Europe, it knows that the knocker isn't there and hence doesn't test it.
I am hoping for your sake that my theory is correct!!
The machine by default is set to United Kingdom. According to the manual, adjustment A.3 21 Coin Meter Units has to be set to anything but OFF to establish the coin unit for a meter attached to the knocker driver and override use of the knocker during awards. However, on my machine that adjustment is set to OFF so I would expect the use of the knocker to NOT be overridden !@#
Matthew
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The machine by default is set to United Kingdom. According to the manual, adjustment A.3 21 Coin Meter Units has to be set to anything but OFF to establish the coin unit for a meter attached to the knocker driver and override use of the knocker during awards. However, on my machine that adjustment is set to OFF so I would expect the use of the knocker to NOT be overridden !@#
Matthew
OK, so with the new ROM you now have adjustment 3.21? I would still set jumpers 14 to 18 to the USA setting as after this I am out of ideas.
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The machine by default is set to United Kingdom. According to the manual, adjustment A.3 21 Coin Meter Units has to be set to anything but OFF to establish the coin unit for a meter attached to the knocker driver and override use of the knocker during awards. However, on my machine that adjustment is set to OFF so I would expect the use of the knocker to NOT be overridden !@#
Matthew
OK, so with the new ROM you now have adjustment 3.21? I would still set jumpers 14 to 18 to the USA setting as after this I am out of ideas.
Awww crap, I must have been half asleep when I wrote that! !@) I meant to say that my machine does not even have adjustment 3.21 so how can the use of the knocker be overridden? !@#
I will look at those jumpers tonight and take a photo.
Cheers,
Matthew
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It is a strange one - I have an opportunity to try this on another game over the coming days. My opinion is that many ops removed the knocker, because of the noise, and the software may detect that there is no knocker - if it is not connected. Somehow, the circuit is not completed.
I assume that if you set the machine to "Factory Defaults" - it would cancel any setup option that is disabling the knocker ?
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It is a strange one - I have an opportunity to try this on another game over the coming days. My opinion is that many ops removed the knocker, because of the noise, and the software may detect that there is no knocker - if it is not connected. Somehow, the circuit is not completed.
I assume that if you set the machine to "Factory Defaults" - it would cancel any setup option that is disabling the knocker ?
Hi Nino,
I reset the old ROM to Factory Defaults but this didn't fix the problem, and I assumed the new ROM would already be set to Factory Defaults. I will try resetting it tonight just in case, but I don't expect it will resolve this pain-in-the-arse issue ::)
Matthew
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It is a strange one - I have an opportunity to try this on another game over the coming days. My opinion is that many ops removed the knocker, because of the noise, and the software may detect that there is no knocker - if it is not connected. Somehow, the circuit is not completed.
I assume that if you set the machine to "Factory Defaults" - it would cancel any setup option that is disabling the knocker ?
Hi Nino,
I reset the old ROM to Factory Defaults but this didn't fix the problem, and I assumed the new ROM would already be set to Factory Defaults. I will try resetting it tonight just in case, but I don't expect it will resolve this pain-in-the-arse issue ::)
Matthew
Maybe not, Matt - But it is a step closer. I'll have a go on an Indy I have over the next two days.
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It is a strange one - I have an opportunity to try this on another game over the coming days. My opinion is that many ops removed the knocker, because of the noise, and the software may detect that there is no knocker - if it is not connected. Somehow, the circuit is not completed.
I assume that if you set the machine to "Factory Defaults" - it would cancel any setup option that is disabling the knocker ?
Hi Nino,
I reset the old ROM to Factory Defaults but this didn't fix the problem, and I assumed the new ROM would already be set to Factory Defaults. I will try resetting it tonight just in case, but I don't expect it will resolve this pain-in-the-arse issue ::)
Matthew
Maybe not, Matt - But it is a step closer. I'll have a go on an Indy I have over the next two days.
Thanks very much Nino, your help is greatly appreciated #*#
Matthew
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Nobody's ever gonna forget this one, once it's solved !*!
MM.
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Nobody's ever gonna forget this one, once it's solved !*!
MM.
I know I won't! @.@
Matthew
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Nobody's ever gonna forget this one, once it's solved !*!
MM.
I know I won't! @.@
Matthew
Hey Matthew,
This is a strange one....Just thinking outside the square, have you checked your PCB board numbers - ie what screen printed on them vs what the manual says?
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The jumpers were the problem! W17 and W18 had been switched off, I switched them back on and hey presto, Solenoid 7 shows up in the Test Menu $#$
Thanks to everyone that responded, especially Andrew who was spot on with his diagnosis about the jumpers #*#
Cheers,
Matthew
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Always nice to know when the logic works.
Very pleased that we have got that one sorted finally!!
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ahhhhh, the old "jumper disabling the menu" trick......
Well done Andrew for pointing in that direction, and congrats to a very happy Matthew :lol
MM.
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good to hear, I willfinally have my TZ back in my freshly carpeted pinball room tonight and was gonna fire it up as everything sounded real strange through this thread. BTW my knocker was missing when purchased but all I did was install a coil and it worked straight away. Anyway good the problem's solved