KBS Diamond Clear Coat Preparation & Application

[Slash]

Finally at the point where I intend to apply the KBS clear to my playfield next weekend (weather permitting).  I have been reading some threads about Darksoul's application of it over at AA, however there was not a lot of detail on the preparation.

I know I need to make sure that the playfield is as clean as possible as any dirt will create spots in the clear etc.  Wipe it numerous times with Shellite etc.  What I am not sure of is whether to sand the playfield lightly first.  I have read suggestions that a light sanding first should occur to help the clear coat adhere?  Is this correct?

If so what type and grade of paper?  I had read a suggestion somewhere of 600 grit.  Would this be right and should it be wet/dry sand paper?

My other question relates to how long to wait between coats.  I've also read that waiting more than 24 hours between coats can be problematic since that can cause problems in getting the second layer of clear to adhere.  Again is it worth sanding between coats?  Im guessing that might only be necessary if there were fish eyes etc after the first coat?  I will be using a foam roller for the application since this stuff apparently self levels well etc, plus I will thin it as recommended too.

[humpalot]

Refer to the manufactures web site for details relating to application.

I say this as some iso free 2k clears flare up when re coated after x amount of time.

That's why I don't use them 

[oldskool1969]

Hey Slash dude, have a look at my Dr Dude thread and you will see the headaches I encountered. Hope this will answer your questions and save some anguish, like I went through. Good luck.

[andtan]

I've also had a go with KBS. Have a look at my WH20 thread, around page 4.

http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=8685.0

Cheers,

Andy

[Slash]

Cheers for the response guys I will have a read of those threads now.

[Slash]

Just read the threads then.

Did either of you lightly sand the playfield before the first application?

[andtan]

Just read the threads then.

Did either of you lightly sand the playfield before the first application?

I think I did, but it was probably with something like 1200.

[oldskool1969]

Yep 2000 and applied very lightly, gas bubbles form if you load it up.

[big dog]

it seems a hard paint to use and risky on spray gear... no problem about its hardness.
gotta say I am happy with good quality 2k .
used 1lt of kbs on the toilet wall to protect from graffiti , it goes off pretty quick .
All ways test on a old playfield first , get a good game plan , then if all good attack the real job knowing its gunna be ok, 99% chance of being good.
best of luck

[andypinboy]

Slash, really interested to hear how this goes - keep us posted!

[48]

Just read the threads then.

Did either of you lightly sand the playfield before the first application?

I've done two playfields with KBS now and found it to be a fairly easy way to go.
Sanded first with 1200 WET
My only warning is be careful if you have put any decals on playfield inserts, it gets under them somehow and also dulls the printing on them. However I found that it had no problem with acrylic paint repairs.
Good luck

[pinoffski]

You can also put a Adhesion Promoter/sealer in the first cote of the clear .
that will seal the playfield paint from bleeding through.

 

[Retropin]

I use nothing but KBS.. have been for a few years now. I can guarantee  that it doesn't react with acrylic, enamel or acrylic lacquer and this is why I use it every time.
acrylic lacquer is good for spraying.. enamel ( humbrol) is good for fine line hand work for the black lines and acrylic is good for insert black line spraying.. put all 3 on a PF and you have problems sealing with a 2 pac unless you use KBS.. sets like diamond coat and is self levelling.
BUT!!!!! make sure the PF is dead level before you spray, brush etc as it will roll to one side otherwise.
Also - it does take a full 7 days to fully cure.. no polishing for at least a week.. make it 2 and you are home and dry.. then again, in all honesty, a 2 pac or a monokan finish also takes the same amount of time to fully cure.. so nothing lost there.
This stuff is FOOL PROOF unless you are a complete numpty.
It will however react with the glue on decals and so if the first spray is not done very lightly then you will get a ripple on the edges of the decal.
Couple of options here..

Do it properly and not use decals..... best option there is.
Spray light and hope that its not too heavy to react with the glue... minor gamble that could well bite in the arse.
go what the hell and spray.. then sand out the rippled edges.. does work so long as you can go heavy with top coat.
My recommendation is to NOT use any decals ( oh I friggin hate them) and build your skill set up by learning some basic airbrush work.. its is a hell of a lot easier than you can ever imagine!
Too hard baskets will give you decals.... a self belief basket will give you a whole new skill set and better results

[pinoffski]

Great info Retropin...

Is there any one that sells stencils for circles and triangles around inserts as it is impossible to cut a perfect circle by hand

so it can be air brushed instead of using decals

[Boots]

I use nothing but KBS.. have been for a few years now. I can guarantee  that it doesn't react with acrylic, enamel or acrylic lacquer and this is why I use it every time.
acrylic lacquer is good for spraying.. enamel ( humbrol) is good for fine line hand work for the black lines and acrylic is good for insert black line spraying.. put all 3 on a PF and you have problems sealing with a 2 pac unless you use KBS.. sets like diamond coat and is self levelling.
BUT!!!!! make sure the PF is dead level before you spray, brush etc as it will roll to one side otherwise.
Also - it does take a full 7 days to fully cure.. no polishing for at least a week.. make it 2 and you are home and dry.. then again, in all honesty, a 2 pac or a monokan finish also takes the same amount of time to fully cure.. so nothing lost there.
This stuff is FOOL PROOF unless you are a complete numpty.
It will however react with the glue on decals and so if the first spray is not done very lightly then you will get a ripple on the edges of the decal.
Couple of options here..

Do it properly and not use decals..... best option there is.
Spray light and hope that its not too heavy to react with the glue... minor gamble that could well bite in the arse.
go what the hell and spray.. then sand out the rippled edges.. does work so long as you can go heavy with top coat.
My recommendation is to NOT use any decals ( oh I friggin hate them) and build your skill set up by learning some basic airbrush work.. its is a hell of a lot easier than you can ever imagine!
Too hard baskets will give you decals.... a self belief basket will give you a whole new skill set and better results

Waterslide decals are ok??
A member on AA regularly uses waterslide decals and KBS with great results