Author Topic: Pete's new arcade machine  (Read 14133 times)

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Offline Boots

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #30 on: July 22, 2011, 10:43:56 PM »
I'm not sure it's a power switch as that's next to the cord on the side outside the cabinet down the bottom I thought it might change the voltage but I'm new at arcades lol there is no screen image its blank and sound is a squeal oh and even pressing the service credit button is no good it and the coin mech doesnt work when it's like this but they both worked before. This machine is very original that's for sure and was in storage for 15 years and that's what attracted me I love the game to so hopefully with help from you guys I may be able to get her going again :)

Peter

Perhaps the switch for the service outlet??
It would be unusual for there to be a switch to change voltages on a machine.
Usually the Japanese machines are all 110V and when the were imported an extra transformer got installed to go from 240V to 110V

Offline GORGAR 1

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #31 on: July 23, 2011, 12:02:16 PM »
Cheers guys heres a couple more shots with the switch in question circled I've also noticed by moving a bunch of wires the screen flickers? she is original so maybe its time for a local expert to weave there magic any ideas who in melbourne could do this I'd pay of course ^^^Peter
« Last Edit: July 23, 2011, 12:34:00 PM by GORGAR 1 »

Offline Boots

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #32 on: July 23, 2011, 05:51:14 PM »
Cheers guys heres a couple more shots with the switch in question circled I've also noticed by moving a bunch of wires the screen flickers? she is original so maybe its time for a local expert to weave there magic any ideas who in melbourne could do this I'd pay of course ^^^Peter

Which wires make the screen flicker?

Offline GORGAR 1

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #33 on: July 23, 2011, 08:47:25 PM »
Cheers guys heres a couple more shots with the switch in question circled I've also noticed by moving a bunch of wires the screen flickers? she is original so maybe its time for a local expert to weave there magic any ideas who in melbourne could do this I'd pay of course ^^^Peter

Which wires make the screen flicker?

There's about 4 wires that plug into the bottom of the chasis then head off towards the power supply i reckon but when I tap them the monitor changes from nothing to fully orange I wish I had another board the test my 48-1 has a much smaller board

Peter

Offline Boots

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #34 on: July 23, 2011, 09:21:16 PM »
There's about 4 wires that plug into the bottom of the chasis then head off towards the power supply i reckon but when I tap them the monitor changes from nothing to fully orange I wish I had another board the test my 48-1 has a much smaller board

Peter

Can you take a photo of the wires?

Offline Strangeways

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #35 on: July 24, 2011, 12:53:55 AM »

I have a feeling that if there is no picture and you have a small white dot in the centre of the screen (which is what I see from the picture), then the deflection / neck board is loose.

But, if the wires are from the power supply - they should be only two wires for 110V.

Four wires could be for the tube deftection and sync (red, green, blue and yellow) - if these are removed you will have either a full white screen or a dot (it has been a while since I've looked at CRT tube game).

The connectors are clearly labeled - this would indicate that the table is as you say - original.

Take a photo of the cables (as Boots requested), and we can have a better idea. Don't touch any wires near the tube.
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Offline GORGAR 1

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #36 on: July 24, 2011, 08:10:39 AM »
Thanks I'll take a photo of those wires after work today and yes Nino there are 4 of them but not sure of color but at one point they have been cut and then joined but I'll take a picture later today

Peter

Offline silverball

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #37 on: July 24, 2011, 10:51:34 AM »
call me on monday morning pete, I can help

Offline GORGAR 1

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #38 on: July 24, 2011, 11:09:37 AM »
call me on monday morning pete, I can help

Cool Dave will do

Peter

« Last Edit: July 24, 2011, 11:14:00 AM by GORGAR 1 »

Offline ktm450

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #39 on: July 24, 2011, 03:27:18 PM »
A little off topic, and not to put the moz on you Pete, but, what happens to all these old arcade games when the CRT display fail? as they are no longer being produced?  Can something else be made to fit/work?

Offline GORGAR 1

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #40 on: July 24, 2011, 03:53:02 PM »
 ^^^
A little off topic, and not to put the moz on you Pete, but, what happens to all these old arcade games when the CRT display fail? as they are no longer being produced?  Can something else be made to fit/work?

What do I do well Id cry and it becomes something to put my stubble on while playing pinball

Peter

Offline Boots

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #41 on: July 24, 2011, 04:51:56 PM »
There are a few options, so all is not lost

Offline GORGAR 1

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #42 on: July 24, 2011, 05:40:23 PM »
Heres what i think are the loose dodgy wires but remember I know shit about these :D

Peter


Offline Boots

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #43 on: July 24, 2011, 08:07:32 PM »
OK
Those wires are the RGB, common and SYNC for the monitor (5 wires), they go back to the board connector.
What you are looking at is the connection to the monitor chassis board.
If you wiggle these and the picture changes, then I expect that the pins on the monitor chassis need re-soldering, I have seen this heaps of times, its a very common problem.
Its hard to tell from the photo but if you can loosen the screws on the chassis board, you may be able to gain access to re-solder them.
You can see from the heat shrink that someone has changed the chassis at some stage and the old chassis must have had a different type of connector.

Once you have got this done give the machine another go and let us know what it does.

I really recommend changing to game board connector after that as it can cause picture problems also.
What I normally do is get a 56 pin JAMMA connector and convert the machine to JAMMA standard, then make a short JAMMA to game adaptor cable (Phoenix for you).
That way if you want to change games it is really simple to do instead of having to rewire the machine every time you change the game.

Offline ddstoys

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Re: Pete's new arcade machine
« Reply #44 on: July 24, 2011, 08:25:12 PM »
Nice machine Pete i had an original Poenix cocktail but sold it to a friend in werribee wonder if he still has it.

   As for mats question ive used a couple of JOMACS universa chassis to repair these table and if using a 48 in one i just open up an old CRT computer monitor and mount that inside.  Not original but them things go forever ^^^