My Flash Resto (Without Studley67)

[Boots]

I usually use automotive acrylic gloss black, from Supercheap, Repco or any auto parts shop. For the Pinball rescue decals they recommend a gloss finish in their instructions supplied with the decals.

+1 and ensure the primer, topcoat and clear are compatible with each other. ie White Knight, dulux etc etc ..

Good point, AVOID quick dry enamel, this type of spray can paint is not compatible with any other enamel.
If you spray quick dry enamel over other enamel spray can paints it will lift them.
I found this out the hard way, started a job with enamel, ran out of paint and the local hardware store only had quick dry, about 45 seconds after application the whole surface crazed and lifted DOHHH!

[mildflame]

So touch ups on playfield need to be enamel and the same brand as what ever paint on or under?
And the apron is just simple Gloss Black Automotive.
I have nearly worked it out

[Boots]

So touch ups on playfield need to be enamel and the same brand as what ever paint on or under?
And the apron is just simple Gloss Black Automotive.
I have nearly worked it out

The apron can be enamel of gloss black automotive, the enamel will get a slightly glossier finish.

Have a look at this for you playfield: http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=5421.90

[studley67]

i don't think you would use enamel on the playfield.hard to remove if you make a mistake.but i could be wrong.

[mildflame]

http://www.craft.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_450&products_id=7573
http://www.craft.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_12&products_id=217
I found these with Studley's help...
can you get colour chart so you buy the right colour

[Strangeways]

I am still learning the "art" of playfield restoration and thanks to Gavin and Tim, I'm totally immersed and it has opened many new doors for me. The key to playfield restoration is PRACTICE and using the right paint and equipment for the job.

Tim pointed me to "Jo Sonja" paints. Available at art stores or Bunnings. They are acrylics. I won't use enamels on a playfield as your Dad pointed out - too messy. With acrylics, you simply wipe off with a damp cloth and start again.

As BOOTS kindly pointed out, that restore is "real time" and look when I started it - It has taken me months to learn how to paint properly, and I am still making mistakes.

There's PLENTY of references on this site. Tim's Funhouse, Gavin's Jacks Open and Bank a Ball. The MORE time you spend learning and researching, the less time you spend repeating your mistakes - and you will make mistakes.

Ask questions - I found all the info I needed from the guys here. There's no harm in "having a crack" - you just need the encouragement.

Colors ? I've bought 20 Jo Sonja paints and I experiment. 75 ml paints are $4 at Bunnings.

[studley67]

those 12 colors in that starter pack should give you a huge range of colors when mixed right.if the bigger tubes are only $4 each thats $48 + flow medium.bunnings seems the go mate,thanks nino

[Strangeways]

I saw the starter back and it didn't really have what I needed. I started off with a black & white (250ml) at $8.00 or $9.00 each. I then grabbed whatever color was close to the job I wanted to do. I bought a red, yellow and blue to start me off (75ml). Then each time I needed to paint a color I didn't have, I bought a few tubes from bunnings and started to mix and match. I seriously think you don't need more that 12 colors. But start off with what you need first, so you can work out if you can familiarise yourself with the paint.

The Flow Medium is used to thin the paint for the airbrush. If you are not diving into the airbrush touch ups, then I would not bother with the flow medium. You can water down the paints if you like - they are thick.

If you are applying direct to wood - you need primer. Water based acrylic. Bunnings sells the exact primer. I will post the product details tomorrow. Gavin put me on to this and it works a treat. You need to water the primter down to let it "soak" into the wood for extra "bite" - (Gav's own words).

[studley67]

do you need to use a filler?or will the primer fill.

[Strangeways]

Depends. I bought Tamiya White putty from Hong Kong, but I didn't use it for the Aces High. Cheap, but shipping is a rip off. I used a tiny amount of primer, and built up the area with paint.

[mildflame]

I thought I would need to use PolyFilla just to level the pf paint. If i'm reading this right I can just use primer

[Boots]

I thought I would need to use PolyFilla just to level the pf paint. If i'm reading this right I can just use primer

Try using "spot" or "knifing" putty, available from any Sprints or Supacheap auto store.
It's basically really thick auto primer (it comes in a tin sort of like car polish comes in)  and great for filling small chips and scratches.

[Strangeways]

I thought I would need to use PolyFilla just to level the pf paint. If i'm reading this right I can just use primer

We are referring to the playfield ?

Replace chipped or missing paint with paint. If the area is exposed (bare wood) then use primer just to create adhesion for the paint to "grab" on to the playfield. Build up the area with coats of paint. Sand and level.

Maybe post some pictures of the area ?

[mildflame]

a long line on playfield. and big patch in middle (earth) with flipper wear aswell. its only about 1-2mm deep but is bare wood! i have a genuine bally sticker for the earth but it doesn't cover the whole area

[studley67]

it looks worse than i remember from that angle