Hankin Cocktail Table Restoration

[Jango]

Hi All
Firstly I hope I have posted this in the correct section.  Its not pinball related and I did not want to post it in the restoration section as its not a pinball restoration, so I hope this is fine here.

I recently located and purchased an original Hankin Cocktail table.  I had posted on this forum looking for a machine.  It was a little beat-up cosmetically as it had been in a pub earning $$ for 15 years straight!  Also - it reeked of beer up until 2 days ago (when I gave it a good clean with Nifty, Febreeze and another light sanding etc.  It also had about 25 pieces of chewing gum at various locations around and inside the cabinet!

Anyway it had a brand new 60 in 1 Jamma installed when i purchased it and when I got it home, everything worked perfectly.  It was just filthy and needed some TLC.

Here are some pics of the machine as I received it.  As you can see its a beautiful original Hankin table that should polish up nicely.









































After a few days playing the machine and reliving my youth, I decided to get into it and start stripping it down completely.  I have never seen the inside of an arcade machine let alone dismantled one so this was a little scary.  Also - I have no idea what the bits in side do either, so this forum has been quite valuable just to get my head around a few things.

The legs, control panels, hinges etc have all been stripped and sent to be powder coated.  I went with gloss black as a finish (I wasted time here as they are going to be sand blasted anyway!)






I found quite a bit of shattered safety glass inside the cabinet.  I think the original table glass had broken and been replaced but the operator did not bother to clean up the broken stuff all through the cabinet







Can anyone tell me what that little metal switch is in the below pic (just above the volume control and below the play counter)?  I am not sure if its a settings switch?? 

As far as I know, the machine did not have a settings switch to enable me to alter some game settings on the 60 in 1 Jamma board.  I have ordered a button for this, but again, don't know where this will wire up to.  Any help appreciated here.




























Here are some pics of the monitor.  I noticed that the colours are nice and bright.  I did notice when the machine was off though that there is a little screen burn, but its only "Game Over".  Its not really an issue and is only mild.  Is there anyway I can address that or is it something that I have to live with etc









I cleaned up the monitor as it was filthy, removed the black degaussing harness (I think that's what it was) and gave everything a good clean.  I noticed some "moveable rings" around the base of the monitor.  Can someone please advise what they do and whether I need to adjust these or leave them alone


The insides have been gutted and will be hand cleaned.  The CP's have been dissected and metal sent to the Powder Coaters





I would appreciate it if anyone (who knows much more than I do, as I know nothing about these things) can take a look at these pics and advise me if I need to address anything from a function / safety perspective.  I am in the process of cleaning the boards now and I will be fitting a new power cord.  But the boards are a bit of a mystery to me.  From some of the markings i gather that one is a monitor harness where some functions can be adjusted (Eg: Vertical / Horizontal hold etc).  But again - everything was working perfectly (as far as I know) when I purchased the machine

I have ordered a bunch of new parts from In2Amusements including:

* New Sanwa Buttons
* New Sanwa Joysticks
* Some new bolts etc
* New Fan
* New Speaker
* A New Jamma Harness (I have no idea how to fit this)
* A New Power Supply
* New Locks
* New T Molding

I have also purchased a new sheet of glass fitted perfected from the original

I have sanded the cabinet and applied some builders bog to a few small areas that had a gouge in them.  This has been sanded and is ready for the new Cherry Red laminex that I purchased from Laminex Industries

For something a little different (and with the kids blessing), I completely cleaned the inside of the cabinet and sprayed it with a few coats of a Ferrari red paint, followed by a coat of clearcoat.  Looks great (not that its going to be seen) and something a little different.  I will post some pics of that soon

If anyone can provide some advice on the above including the boards etc it would be greatly appreciated

[Strangeways]

Be VERY VERY careful when removing the monitor and chassis. See that thick red wire with the suction cup on it ? If that is not grounded BEFORE removal, you risk a MASSIVE shock from the CRT tube. Most of these lose their charge after 24 hours, but some of the older ones retain their charge and can give you a nasty kick.

Be extremely careful and don't let kids near the monitor.

Don't touch the moveable rings on the neck of the monitor. They are adjustments for purity and alignment. These should be set at factory and NEVER changed. From your point of view, you only need to adjust the pots on the chassis - Red, Green, Blue, Brightness, Horizontal hold, H-position, Vertical size. The main screen brightness might also be on the EHT along with focus. Horizontal Width is usually a choke (inductor) - seldom needs to be adjusted. There are also adjustments on the neck board - these are Red bias, Green bias and blue bias. No need to touch these.

With monitors, you should try to adjust via the pots on the chassis when the monitor is warm (10 minutes after cold power on).

Monitor burn in can't be helped. You can improve the quality of the image slightly by rejuvenating the monitor (which I've had done on a few games) and it looks much better. It is an expensive option, and the repair guy needs the correct equipment to do this.

Your option in restoring the game depend on budget. Powdercoating, chroming etc etc..

Please KEEP the CRT monitor and don't go down the path of LCD. There's no depth and they looK CRAP !

Hope that helps !

[Jango]

Thanks Nino
Monitor was removed safely about a week ago.  Thanks for the tip.  Re the rings on the neck, I may have moved one slightly but put it back where it was.  Time will tell if I need to fix that error.  Agree re the monitor - I will keep it and will not use LCD.  The restoration is not cheap as various bits and process cost $$ but hey... that's what I wanted, a faithful resto of what i played as a kid

[Boots]

Don't you love it when people leave the broken glass in the machine?
Here is a pinout chart for the Jamma harness, the colours are the colours of the wires on a standard harness.
The player1 part of the harness will be the wires grouped with the daisy chain of common (black) wires.
When you route the wires in the cabinet, don't forget to separate the Player2 start wire (brown) and group it with the Player1 wires (Player1 and Player2 start buttons are together on the Player1 control panel)
If you want to disguise the burn in (for when the machine is off) just fit a tinted piece of perpex under the lid, it wont affect the view during gameplay.

[pinnies4me]

All the best with the resto Jango. I had one of these years ago in great condition but not working, wish I'd never sold it, they are classics.

[ktm450]

I would love a Hankin table one day, look forward to the resto

[Jango]

An update on this restore thread guys.  

I applied the new cherry red laminex and picked up all of the freshly powder coated metal (legs, control panels, hinges etc etc) and have started installing everything.  They came up beautifully.  They even power coated inside and underneath the coin box and it looks great.

I have started to reassemble bit by bit and have also installed the new T-molding.  Installing the laminex and cutting it was a real challenge and there were a few cosmetic errors.  Here are the pics:





























I now need to work through the confusing mess of re-wiring now with my new Jamma harness.  The original machine had a line filter and also a transformer, but I'm told that I no longer need those as all I need is the new arcade power supply...  Can anyone please clarify as I have no freakin idea about this (why would it have been left in the original machine connected with a power supply also?).

I would appreciate some assistance with a few wiring questions please guys as (I have no freakin idea):

I purchased these Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT Joysticks and the hardness with connector for this joystick:

http://in2amusements.com.au/sanwa-parts/sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-joystick/

http://in2amusements.com.au/sanwa-parts/sanwa-jlf-h-harness/


Re the JLF wiring harness for the joysticks - I cannot see any indicator for pins L R U D.  The white connector only has 5 wires labelled 1 2 3 4 5 (1 is black being the ground, 2 is green, 3 is yellow, 4 is orange and 5 is red).  Does a colour correspond with L R U D on the joystick?

Which terminal on the Power Supply do I connect the 240v fan please?

Thanks in advance for any assistance

[Boots]

"Re the JLF wiring harness for the joysticks - I cannot see any indicator for pins L R U D.  The white connector only has 5 wires labelled 1 2 3 4 5 (1 is black being the ground, 2 is green, 3 is yellow, 4 is orange and 5 is red).  Does a colour correspond with L R U D on the joystick?"

Have a look at the chart I posted, that will tell you the colour codes.

[Jango]

Hi guys
Would appreciate it if someone could assist me with some connections that remain on my Hankin cocktail restore.  I have the buttons and joystick connections from the Jamma harness all sorted out but am having a little difficulty with the connections from the power cord, the on/off switch, the monitor chassis and the switching power supply.

The Hankin cocktail table originally had an old transformer, a line filter, an older switching power supply and the on/off switch all connected together.  I'm told I can dispose of the transformer and the line filter now so that's what I have done.

I have attached a few pics detailing my predicament.

Regarding the first 2 x pics below, can someone please advise whether:

*  the power cord is plugged directly into the AC terminals on the switching power supply and if so does it matter where the brown and blue go?
*  Does the green ground wire plug into "FG"?

OR

*  Does the power cord plug into the on/off switch and like wires are routed into the switching power supply?

*  Also - what should the 5V ADJ knob be set at?










Regarding the below pic of the monitor chassis, the 2 x black wires here appear to have plugged into the old transformer.  Re the new switching power supply, would these wires now plug into the AC terminal on the new switching power supply?







The Video red / blue / green /synch / ground PLUG as detailed in the pic differs from the new plug that came with my Jamma harness.  What are my options here?  Should I cut the old, solder the like wires together and cover?






Regarding the numerous black grounding wires that came with the Jamma harness - what needs to be grounded exactly  Should all buttons be connected also?

Any assistance appreciated for this newbie - I will not be electrocuting myself either guys

[Boots]

Hi guys
Would appreciate it if someone could assist me with some connections that remain on my Hankin cocktail restore.  I have the buttons and joystick connections from the Jamma harness all sorted out but am having a little difficulty with the connections from the power cord, the on/off switch, the monitor chassis and the switching power supply.

The Hankin cocktail table originally had an old transformer, a line filter, an older switching power supply and the on/off switch all connected together.  I'm told I can dispose of the transformer and the line filter now so that's what I have done.

I have attached a few pics detailing my predicament.

Regarding the first 2 x pics below, can someone please advise whether:

*  the power cord is plugged directly into the AC terminals on the switching power supply and if so does it matter where the brown and blue go?
*  Does the green ground wire plug into "FG"?

OR

*  Does the power cord plug into the on/off switch and like wires are routed into the switching power supply?

*  Also - what should the 5V ADJ knob be set at?

Regarding the below pic of the monitor chassis, the 2 x black wires here appear to have plugged into the old transformer.  Re the new switching power supply, would these wires now plug into the AC terminal on the new switching power supply?


The Video red / blue / green /synch / ground PLUG as detailed in the pic differs from the new plug that came with my Jamma harness.  What are my options here?  Should I cut the old, solder the like wires together and cover?


Regarding the numerous black grounding wires that came with the Jamma harness - what needs to be grounded exactly  Should all buttons be connected also?

Any assistance appreciated for this newbie - I will not be electrocuting myself either guys

STOP IMMEDIATELY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would suggest you get a licensed electrician to wire up your AC power on your cabinet.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way, but from what you described you have done, you will start a fire in your cabinet or blow up your monitor chassis or your arcade board (or all of the above)
Whoever told you to remove the old transformer was COMPLETELY WRONG.
The transformer is required to supply the 100V for the monitor chassis and to isolate it from the mains supply.
From the photo of the power cord it looks like a 2 terminal power switch you have installed, if it is then if you connect the power and turn it on you will be connecting the active power straight to the neutral and you will probably burn a big hole in your cabinet BAD!!
The correct way to connect it is to have an inline fuse on the active (brown) cable and pass the active through the switch, so that only the active is switched off.
You can get 2 pole switches that isolate both the active and the neutral, but I am not sure if the current regulations require that for a game cabinet - SHORT STORY, GET A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN.
The green earth does go to the FG connection on the power supply.
I imagine that an electrician will fit a junction box inside the cabinet so that all the items requiring 240V can be connected, power supply, 100V transformer, fan etc.

------------------------------
Now to the stuff you can do:

The 5V adjustment would normally be set to 5.25V, as the 60in1 board that it looks like you have cannot take more than 5.50V or you will damage the board.
Make sure you check the voltage with your multimeter BEFORE connecting the JAMMA harness wires and adjust as necessary.
Once you are happy with the voltage, connect the JAMMA harness WITHOUT the game connected and check that you are getting the 12V and 5V at the correct pin connectors (refer to the pinouts I posted)

Only once that you have done this should you connect the game board.

[Jango]

Thanks Boots.  Appreciate it.  I have not connected anything to power and will not do so.  I have just connected the inline filter back onto the board and connected.  I may as well recoonnect the transformer as well.  As the kids will be using it I will be contacting an Electrician to do those things safely.  Just wanted to tinker and learn but was not gonna do any harm etc

[Jango]

Should I be looking at changing the monitor chassis or will my one be fine for quite some time??

[Strangeways]

I agree with Boots 100%. Whoever told you that you do not need a line filter has no experience with electrical work. You will need a line filter and a 275V Varistor. Easily found at Jaycar.

A transformer is required. The chassis requires 110VAC (from the transformer secondary) and depending on what type of switching power supply you have (110VAC or 240VAC), he power supply needs power from the transformer.

If the picture was fine before you started, you should not need to change your chassis.

[Jango]

Please see the pic below... is the original transformer that was in the cabinet ok to use?  Its the original transformer that was in the machine when I purchased it?







Also - re wiring up the buttons and joysticks etc, I noticed the jamma harness had a daisy chain of black ground wire.  As per the pic below, am I supposed to link ground between each button and joystick and connect to the switching power supply?

[Boots]

That transformer looks fine, very commonly used transformer.
The daisy chain of black wires do go to each microswitch, that should lead back to the JAMMA connector, you will have some extra connectors, just cut them off.
For the player two side you will have to take one of the other black wires on the harness and use the connectors you cut off and join it to that wire, then run them to your microswitches.
Obviously you will have to cut and join the joystick wires to the joystick harness
I can't quite see from the photos, but it looks like the joystick has spade terminals you can connect to, you may be able to just connect your JAMMA harness connectors directly to these instead of using the joystick harness.
I would recommend that, because then if you have to change the joystick, you don't need one with that harness connector.