Random reset on LAH (fixed!)

[humpalot]

OK check the diodes on the switches for middle scoop left, right and spinner.

If no problem there, then your problem could lie in row 3, which is WHT-ORN connector CN10-7.
Things to look at here are credit button, trough 3, drop target A, right stand up bottom, right turbo bumper, left outlane and scoop spinner.

Please check and report back with results.

[MartyJ]

OK check the diodes on the switches for middle scoop left, right and spinner.

If no problem there, then your problem could lie in row 3, which is WHT-ORN connector CN10-7.
Things to look at here are credit button, trough 3, drop target A, right stand up bottom, right turbo bumper, left outlane and scoop spinner.

Please check and report back with results.

OK 1/2 a step ahead.  Diodes already replaced for middle scoop (s) & spinner (note switch not replaced).

Diodes replaced for trough3 (& switch), drop target A...

Credit button looks like some funky wiring...Have replaced diode on it, but if you can confirm what wiring should go to what on switch (inc lights) as the diode and a red wire go off to like an earth, but on the wood??? (for lamp) but also wiring to switch seems to be different than that of the smart missile (ie NC, NO & COM).

Will replace right stand up bottom, right turbo bumper and left outlane tomorrow, as my head hurts tonight!

My understanding of clays guide (I could be well wrong here) with the whole square thing on matrix is - if trough 3 causing issues - check trough2, drop target r, drop target a and trough 3 - which I've done all.
If scoop spinner causing issues - check drop target a, single left rollover, scoop spinner & right flipper?  Have not done single left rollover as is right under crane & pain in butt if I'm wrong....flipper diode - is this on flipper board?  If so can a funky flipper board be causing these issues perhaps??.


I am probably well off track re my interpretation of clays guide anyway...I will try your above's then report back tomorrow night!

Thanks again for your persistance with this....Once again this place is fantastic for support with such issue to get a great pin!

[humpalot]

Data east flipper boards can be trouble, mainly caused by the playfield being lifted up and down.  Check the board to make sure that the playfield hasn't taken out or knocked off any parts.

Will confirm wiring tomorrow for the credit.

Hang in there.

[MartyJ]

Data east flipper boards can be trouble, mainly caused by the playfield being lifted up and down.  Check the board to make sure that the playfield hasn't taken out or knocked off any parts.

Will confirm wiring tomorrow for the credit.

Hang in there.

Thanks Humpalot....

No obvious signs of damage on flipper board.  Unfortunately Simpsons is a different revision so I cant put it in to test....

I have ordered some new flipper leaf's too.  I'm not at home to check but should these have diodes on them too?

[humpalot]

Data east flipper boards can be trouble, mainly caused by the playfield being lifted up and down.  Check the board to make sure that the playfield hasn't taken out or knocked off any parts.

Will confirm wiring tomorrow for the credit.

Hang in there.

Thanks Humpalot....

No obvious signs of damage on flipper board.  Unfortunately Simpsons is a different revision so I cant put it in to test....

I have ordered some new flipper leaf's too.  I'm not at home to check but should these have diodes on them too?

Whilst your looking at the flipper board check fuse clips and resolder the header pins.

I've attached a photo of the start button showing the wiring on my machine.  On the start mirco switch the wires go: WHT-RED to non band side of diode NC 2, green wires to NO 3, diode banded side goes to C 1.

[MartyJ]

Awesome.  Perfect timing just got home and soldering iron warming up....

Will check credit wiring then redo other diodes....

Fuse holders on flipper board tested same.  Nil signs of dry joints / cracking as I looked over it when I had some flipper issues previously...

Will report back soonish!

[humpalot]

FUK FUK FUK.

Should of paid more attention to that CN8 connector that I didn't like the look of.

CN8 is for the switch drive.

Connector is wired as: pin2 grn-red, pin3 grn-org, pin4 grn-yel, pin5 grn-blk, pin7 grn-blu, pin8 grn-vio, pin9 grn-gry.

Looks like this is where your problem lies.  You have one wire too many?

[MartyJ]

OK...Update  

Scoop spinner diode previously replaced, right turbo switch diode replaced, drop target A diode replaced, trough 3 diode replaced, credit button diode replaced & wiring checked.  Nil value.  The only diode to go is the left outlane...Have to remove crane assembly so my next question is for some reason my gut tells me there is an issue with flipper board....

The flipper board which the manual states I should have is a 520-5070-00 (Rev A)....My Simpsons has a 520-5033-00.....I will try to google to see if compatible before I remove crane to change diode....

[MartyJ]

FUK FUK FUK.

Should of paid more attention to that CN8 connector that I didn't like the look of.

CN8 is for the switch drive.

Connector is wired as: pin2 grn-red, pin3 grn-org, pin4 grn-yel, pin5 grn-blk, pin7 grn-blu, pin8 grn-vio, pin9 grn-gry.

Looks like this is where your problem lies.  You have one wire too many?

Hmm, I will go down and double check and photgraph..

[humpalot]

The pic you posted earlier shows a wire on pin 1.  Pin 1 and 6 should have nothing on them.

[MartyJ]

The pic you posted earlier shows a wire on pin 1.  Pin 1 and 6 should have nothing on them.

The switch matrix I have here has GRN-BRN (CN8-1)?  I must admit the connection looks dodgy (soldered in) and will be replaced asap. 

[humpalot]

That yellow wire 

Need to put back the original wiring.  The wire that is currently on pin 1 grn-red needs to go where the yellow wire is.

But you also need to make sure that the grn-red still goes and attaches to the hacked connector under the playfield is (again that's where the yellow wire is currently)

Fix up that wiring and we are headed in the right direction 

[MartyJ]

That yellow wire 

Need to put back the original wiring.  The wire that is currently on pin 1 grn-red needs to go where the yellow wire is.

But you also need to make sure that the grn-red still goes and attaches to the hacked connector under the playfield is (again that's where the yellow wire is currently)

Fix up that wiring and we are headed in the right direction 

Yep, that yellow wire is replacing the GRN-RED as it must have broken somewhere from the playfield plug up....
Before I go any further, is GRN-BRN OK at pos 1 ?

[humpalot]

Use your DMM to continuity check the grn-red wire, if it checks out OK remove all the yellow and replace it with grn-red.  Either way grn-red still has to be removed from pin 1 on the connector.

[humpalot]

Oops should also add that the grn-red wire drives switches 9-16.